austinsailor

Don, I thought I was the only one who did that. I can't recall ever using a pilot shaft. I mean, if you pull the clutch out of a 54 Packard hearse, where you going to find one? Worked fine for that without one, I figured it was more time to go looking for one than to just put it in. Put the 4 speed back in my B1B last week, didn't need one. You can eyeball it as close as a worn shaft will get it.

Thanks, it's been submitted.

Well, due to the fact I couldn't find a new clutch, I took the advise of you guys and asked around for someone locally. Found out we had a place about 60 miles away that was highly recommended. This morning I drove to Jonesburg, Mo, went out in the country to Unique Automotive rebuilders. I asked Snake (yes, that's his name) if they could rebuild the clutch today. He looked at the pressure plate (clutch cover to you kids) and said it needed rebuilding as well. I asked if I could get it today. He told me I'd have to give him an hour. Sure to his word, in one hour, both were like new. After paying the $55 total cost, I was home by noon and putting it in. I drove it this afternoon. We should add them to our links. These guys have a huge operation. They rebuild thousands a week, a good percentage of the 18 wheelers on the road. They build 90% of the pulling tractors, those competition rigs you see. Big stuff. little stuff, and everything in between. The do walk ins on the spot with no complaints, and get a pile by UPS every day. They have a lage selection of old parts. As Snake said, "We don't throw anything away, someone will need it eventually". They have used parts going back to the 20's. Anyway, I recommend them. How do we add them to our links? http://www.uniqueclutches.com/ Unique Automotive Clutch Rebuilders 693 West Booneslick Rd, Jonesburg, MO 63351 636-488-5242 / 636-488-5469 fax Gene G. Central Mo

But that'll take a week or so. I'd like to put it together tomorrow! I'm impatient. I was hoping to just bring one home and get on it. They are not all re-lineable, either, although this one is, I think.

I'm ready to put my clutch and transmission back in (after removing the old one with a torch!) but the clutch disk is thin. It's still usable and if I can't findone in the next day or two, I might just use it, but I'd rather find a new one. NAPA has been good about finding things, but their books don't go that far and they haven't been able to match up 10", 1" shaft with 10 splines. This is a '48 B1B. Surely someone here has bought one recently. Would you have a part number? NAPA can usually have it overnight if we can find a number to work with. Thanks.

My fault, the thread was about timing covers, I was thinking of axles, which won't go in a press. Of course I could use my press for a removable cover, backing plate or anything like that. My mind still had a picture of fishing the springs out of the axle housings.

Sounds good to just press sit in, but how would you do that? Most tools are meant to be driven in, I don't know of a way to just press it in. I agree it would solve the spring popping out problem. Ideas?

In mo they look at everything with a number. Might not be a problem if they don't match, I don't know.

> why not get a title and vin plate from another car and title it >under that? that would make life much easier. >i'm currently selling a 1950 international and have no title. however >i did find a guy that has a vin plate and title that i was considering >purchasing and just using that. >personally i don't see any way of that not working. When the Highway Patrol inspects it, and they look at the frame number and it doesn't match, your trouble will start. By the way, I got my two appraisals today, tomorrow I drive to the Capitol and see how this works.

I was mainly wondering if the clutch from the 3 speed would fit the spline of the 4 speed. I'm sure the pressure plate will bolt up. I plan to keep the 4 speed if I can clean the shaft up well enough.

Along the same line, I have a 1/2 ton with a 4 speed and the bigger clutch. As shown in another post, it was torched out. I have a 3/4 ton parts truck with a 3 speed (yes, I know that seems backwards!) and I have hopes of pulling the clutch and pressure plate from the 3 speed 3/4 ton and using it on the 4 speed 1/2 ton. Am I going to be disappointed?

I just talked to a fellow on northern minnisota that I'm buying some pilothouse parts from. He tells me that they've passed a law that makes it a crime to sell or transport untitled vehicles, or something close to that. They can't be sold, like at am estate sale, thay can't be transported. He expects down the road they'll go out and take them from your property and charge you, sort of like cleaning up toxic waste. Anyone know more about this? Heck, sounds like I could be arrested hauling my truck Back from canada.

It's not pretty but I got that POS out of there. There wasn't much left, never did get the hub of the clutch off of the pilotshaft. Tomorrow I'll use a die grinder to cut away the rest and clean up the shaft. No amount of heat would get it loose, and I finally just torched away at the hub until it would go through the throwout bearing. What a mess.

I agree on the welding vs. bondo. It'll fall out. I welded up many holes in my 47 cab and it's solid. Some of them were holes others had used bondo on and were loose. You can look here and get an idea of it: http://www.austinsailor.net/47_dodge/page8.html Take a small wire welder, just start welding on the edge of the hole, keep building up until there is no hole. You might have to let it cool a couple times before you're done. Then take a hand grinder, grind it smooth. It'll be solid as anything else on the truck.

Got the pressure plate out, but prying on the clutch hub directly isn't doing anything. Guess I'll try to find a fork big enough, or make one. Must need the "bigger hammer" method. Here's a picture of the pressure plate in Kit form.

I'm not sure how to get heat, candle wax or anything else to the hub with the pressure plate there. By the way, when did they quit being pressure plates and become "clutch covers"??

I'm using it now to find a ride for a flathead 6 from California. Have a couple possibilities in the works. But the haul I'm offering is for our trucks/members, not a money making deal. Thanks for pointing it out, though.

One of the things I had to do on my 48 B1B was get the clutch free. So, I got the jack under the tranny, took the bolts out of the transmission, and ... nothing. No amount of prying got it out. It budged maybe 1/8". Took the bolts out of the pressure plate, then it would slide a half inch. The Clutch is falling apart and rusted to the pilot shaft! I guess in the morning I'll just take the torch and cut away at it until the pressure plate and clutch hub are gone enough to come through the hole in the bell housing. What fun. Sure glad I have some spare parts laying around.

>What does the missouri law mean? Since you're from St. Louis, this is probably of more interest to you. What I've found is that there is a little used statute that allows you to get a salvage title on vehicles over 25 years old by putting up a bond that guarentees if there is a claim from someone else, they get paid for the vehicle. The bond is pretty much a technicality. Do a google search on "Missouri 301.217", look at paragraph 2. This covers it. You'll submit: -The application for title, form 184 -bond -bill of sale (or whatever documents you have to support your application, but notorized bill of sale from someone is best) -Statement of Fact, a written statement explaining why you have the vehicle and whatever else you can tell to help someone understand why it's yours -2 appraisals from licensed car dealers. This is optional, your other choice is to pay for a bond on the blue book value of the vehicle. My rusty 48 pickup came up as $9000, when in fact it was a $1000 or less truck. The bond cost is based on the value assigned to the vehicle times 1.5, so it's in your best interest to get the appraisals to get the cost down. Minimum bond cost is $100. My one in Texas was $205. I would recommend you print out 301.217 and take a copy with you so they don't blow you off if you go to a local office to get help getting papers in order. I was told it had to be taken to Jeff City, not a local office to be processed. With this, you'll get a salvage title. That can be turned into a real title later by paying a $25.50 fee and getting it inspected by the highway patrol. I spent a bit of time at the license office today. They had no clue what I was talking about, but a few calls to Jeff, talks with supervisors there, they came up with all this. I figured it would be a long time getting to the point where they would work on it, but they came up with a clear set of things, and it seems like it'll work fine. I gathered that this hadn't been used before. Salvage titles for newer cars are common so the wrecking yards and insurance companies can work a late model vehicle through the system, but using this paragraph for the old ones is not common, and maybe never used before. I should have mine through the system by the middle of next week. I'll post the results here when I get done. Having done it in Texas 2 weeks ago on another truck, though, it seems like they are on track with what they are doing. I mentioned this to a member of the old wheels club locally, and they are excited to find there is a way to get their old model t's on the road without a court processes. I'm excited because I won't have to haul them across the country to get paperwork on them. And the DOR knows I have a legislator looking over their shoulder, so I don't think they'll make it extra difficult!

That is interesting. I'm going to pick up the truck I bought in Manitoba soon, and there will only be a bill of sale from the seller. I was under the impression you all had some sort of title, although it is called something else. If you only use a bill of sale, that will probably work for me and I won't have to go through this bonding processes on that truck. Please tell me more. If you sell to another Canadian, is a bill of sale all that is available, or is it that they'll allow you to register it, but there are other ownership documents, just not mandentory?

I went through international about 6 years ago, $120, worked great. Tried it about a month ago, $225, but before I got it, laws changed, it was going to be $450. This processes I've found isn't ideal, cost about $125, you get a salvage title which can be changed to a real title when it's drivable. But better than the court/judge route.

I've been pressuring a local legislator to introduce a bill to make it easier tp register old "barn find" type vehicles in Mo. In Kansas all you need is a bill of sale on 1949 or older, Texas has a bonded title processes. In mo you'd have to hire a lawyer, file a court case and hope the judge would issue a ruling to give you a title. Of course, you'd better have a thick wallet. The legislatur asked the DOR to look into it. They found that Mo. Has a bonded title processes on the books but they haven't been using it and nobody knew about it. I just left the license office, after many calls to the Capitol, they've figured out they can and will do it. What a great discovery for us old vehicle nuts!

>Austin: rechecked, my head has a brass screw on cylinder #6. >Put a long small screwdriver in that hole and that cylinder was up! >Rotor is pointing at wire #1. What Jim is telling you is that both #1 and #6 are going to be at the top. The problem is, one is at the end of the compression stroke, one is at the end of exhaust stroke and you don't know which is which. You could use your thumb over that hole and do the same thing, but then the rotor should point to the wire going to #6. It'll be hard to turn it over, though, unless you remove the rest of the plugs. Gene

If your timing is 180 degrees off you'll have these symptoms. To check without any equipment or special help, take your plugs out. Turn your motor over by hand, holding a thumb or finger over the #1 plug hole. When It's pushing air past your thumb it's going up on the compression stroke. When the air stops you'll be near top dead center. Pop the distributor cap and the roter should be pointing to the wire that went to #1 cylinder. If it's pointing the other way you're 180 out.

No 46-48 Plymouth parts, but I do have a 40 Dodge 4 door sedan I'm parting out. Won't quite get it, will it? Gene