austinsailor

this is an R10. it has the selenoid and a lever that I believe a cable will go on. is there a diagram of how this hooks up somewhere? Thanks

bought it! it's clean, operates smooth. can't feel any chipped teeth. I'll just bolt it in my 40 Dodge and try it. anyone want an aftermarket floor shift conversion?

Been there, done that. I understand.

You must be the guy from NY who called! I might have to call George while I'm there for advice. After all, he's the guy I'd have fix it if it needed it.

my plan would be to put that tranny behind a Chrysler 6 in a 42 Plymouth. is this suitable for this use? other than the obvious water inside/siezed type problems, are there other things to look for? I'd assume it needs syncros and other small items for sure. the guy knows nothing of it't history, it was in the backseat of a car he bought.

thanks. I'm going to look at it in the morning.

As I gather parts for this 251, what should I look for in pistons? Are there any light weight high performace one's around? Does it matter? Looks like we're going .040 over on it. Any thoughts or pointers on piston selection are welcomed.

Good thoughts Tim. Cam is on the way to Edgy, I'll probably add George Asche's tripple manifold (when I find a grand laying around), looking into Langdon's cast headers. Head grind and decking the block is a given. I have thought about the T5, which seems to be the #1 choice. I know nothing about them except what I've read on this board. So, I did a cragslist search to see what was available. Lots is available, and I figured out I need to know a lot more just to start. There were T5's in many cars, little 4 bangers, more powerful V-8's and everything in between. How do you know what to get? How do you know if it's strong enough, or are they all the same inside regardless of the original application? Gear ratios? Case configurations? Are input and outputs the same regardless of original application?

I measured the combustion chambers today. Original 251 truck head is 105 ml. Fargo 228 head is 98 ml.

As I try to figure out how to fix up the 251 truck motor into a sort of hot rod motor, I have lots of strange thoughts. I also have a 51 Fargo with what I've identified as a 228 ci log block. Compression on both are similar, so I figured that the combustion chamber must be smaller to keep it the same final ratio. It stands to reason, then, that if I took the fargo head and put on the 251 I'd gain compression with nothing else being done. Then, if I shave that head then deck the block, I might get some serious compression increase. I went out and pulled the fargo head this morning - the snowstorm won't get here for a few more hours, the sun is shining on the truck, and it wasn't too bad at 15 degrees. But I'm getting off track. I laid the two heads next to each other. Same gasket, same depth along the edge where the valves are, but where it narrows between the head bolts in the middle, the Fargo is 1/8" narrower. I guess I need to do a serious measurement of the volume of both, but it looks like my theory is on track. So, 2 questions. 1. Is there something serious I'm missing in the plan that makes it silly? 2. How high can the compression go without having problems? I think I've read that taking .080 off the head and .010 off the block gets to about 8 to 1. If my math says using this head will take me to, say, 8.5 or 9 to 1 will I have problems or just more power?

It's not IMCDB.com, it's IMCDB.org

I'm going to send my cam off to Earl Edgerton for a regrind. My plan is to up the compression, add a 3 carb manifold, (probably George Asche) and headers (maybe Langdon). I know nothing about cam grinds, but Earl makes the following suggestion: "Since its a street car, I would reccomend my 260 dur. .410" lift. Its a mild cam but with .035 more lift and moves the rpm range 500-700rpm , without giving up the low end torque. But we can go bigger if you would like. Do you have any numbers in mind." I don't know enough to have any numbers in mind, and Earl is probably the worlds expert on hopping up these motors. Is this what you'd do if it was your motor?

I tell them I'm not going to. It's original. I did weld new floors in so things wouldn't hit the street when I dropped them - and so it didn't fling water on me when the streets were wet. I had it insured, along with a couple others, with American National. They dropped it until I painted it. Said when I got it painted, they'd cover it. They only covered cars in "Show Condition" I told them it was in show condition, just right for the "survivor" class. Didn't matter. So it's insured with Gulfway, who doesn't care if it's painted. They think it's cool.

'48 B1B, just as it was after sitting for 30+ years. Except brakes, seals, those sort of things. I think it draws more attention than if it was a nice restoration - and I don't have to worry about my paint getting scratched!

>So how come nobody uses roberts motor parts, which carries >virtually the same inventory as AB but are consistantly easier to >deal with. As well as having an illustrated oline catalog and orderisng >system??? Many of the things I needed Roberts didn't have. The track to go on the bottom of the windows of my 40 Dodge, for example. He has a lot that is not on his site.

http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/pengines.html 55 Plymouth car motor, 230 CI.

No corner windows. I've been told that no Canadian trucks have them. I've considered putting some in, but with my current backlog of projects, It's unlikely that will ever happen. I thought it might have been the only one in Missouri, except I recall seeing one on ebay from some high dollar vintage car dealer in St. Louis last summer. But, even in Minnesota they must not be common. As we were heading back from a little town north of Winnipeg where I bought it, we stopped for gas in some small Minnesota town. Some guy came up to ask "What treasure brought you all the way up here?". He read the badge, and said "I've crushed more than 5000 cars and I've never heard of a Fargo before. What heck is that?" We were less than 100 miles from Canada.

I seem to be answering my own posts! More searching came up with this: http://www.dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/DE-FE_Export_Serials/Serials.pdf Which also seems to be on this site. A serial number listing of Canadian mopars. It gives the 51 1 ton as a T311 motor, and my serial number of the truck falls right in the middle of the range. Guess I'll have to just tear it down before I can be sure what fits it.

I'm still looking, did a bunch of google searches and found something here: http://www.dodgepilothouseclub.org/garage/garage.htm Which, I guess, is part of this site and includes: ************************ May 1953 to July 1955,108 A and B The 108 A was a carry-over from the Canadian import model. The A model used the earlier Canadian steering parts, and Canadian chassis. The B model used a different steering box (fore-aft motion) and tie rod system, and the chassis were locally produced. All body panels were now produced in Australia. All models had the electrical system changed from the 6V Autolite system to a 12V Lucas positive earth system. Both A and B models 108`s, until early 54, came with three engine choices. All long blocks. (25”) T307 =218.06 (3 3/8 x 4 1/16) T311 =228 (3 3/8 x 4 ¼) ************************** Now, this is Aussie stuff, but I'm guessing that it also includes Canada, and my engine is a '53 to '55? Guess I need to check bore and stroke to figure it out. Any thoughts?

My '51 Fargo 1 ton has a 25" motor with the code T311. It isn't listed here: http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html Is there another place that might tell me what it is? thanks.

I guess I learn something new every day!

I wondered if making the ports completely smooth would hurt the mixing of the fuel, and reading these threads it seems others wonder about that as well. I do see that opening the ports to match the gaskets and manifolds would be good. I'll probably do at least that much. I was reading through that thread and noticed that at the end he painted the inside of his motor. Looks bad to me. Any flaking paint could be a disaster. I'm not sure why it would be done. Not something I've ever considered, but it makes me wonder. Also, his last post was 2009. Wonder what happened? Another question. All the compression ratios are about the same, but displacement is not. For example, the 48 Desoto 236 I have is about the same, so I wonder if the head of the desoto, put on the 251 block would give a boost in compression? I suppose I need to measure the volume of both and I'd have my answer. To take it to another level, I also have a 51 Fargo which has a 25" block, but a smaller motor. I wonder how the head from that would work?

I've been buying things from him for 7 or 8 years and he's always done right by me. One gearshift knob was wrong, he immediately gave me a refund. Ups destroyed a a box with all my window repair parts, the clips were lost. He sent new ones at once, no questions asked, no charge. He's not one who wants to just chat - if you want that, call George Asche :^) But I've never had an issue. Maybe I've just been lucky, but if he's got it, I have no problem ordering from him.

Actually, it has to do with seating the rings. Ideally, you should go from about as slow as you can in high, then accelerate up to speed, slow down again, then do it over, and continue for about 500 miles. Of course, that isn't practical, so the varying speed is what's called for. What they don't mention is the speeding up should be pretty hard on the throttle. The idea is to push the rings against the wall and seat them well. Every new vehicle I've had I've always tried as often as I can to accelerate as often as I can, trying hard to put a load on the motor. I've never had one be an oil burner or have problems. I don't think it's such a big deal on new cars the way they build them now, but when we do our overhauls it is. Also, I've heard from several sources that using synthetic during breakin is not good, it won't let rings seat, it's too slippery. This obviously doesn't apply to all new cars, as some now come from the factory with synthetic.

You say you want lights? How's this?