joecoozie

The only way to make 100% sure they will fit is to go by the part number(s) on the tail light bezels and check them in a parts manual. I do not have a parts manual for your car but maybe someone here can help.

I have one of these and I used it for a short time. I have one of those dome tents (Rhino-Shelter) and I put the car bubble inside the tent and drove the car onto the bubble. Zipped it closed and plugged in the fan. It kept the car high and dry and prevented mice, dirt, etc from getting to the car. I used it in the winter, summer...didn't matter. The good thing about these is that there is a constant flow of fresh air that doesn't allow moisture to linger inside the bubble. I still have mine but I am no longer using it right now. My brother has one, too, and he isn't using his either. I liked it for its intended purpose. They do sell one for outdoor storage, too

Is it still 6 volts or 12 volts? You can probably get a new 6 volt coil at NAPA - I saw them listed. I would also replace the points and condenser because if the points were closed at that time they are more than likely burnt. Replace the condenser, too, to be on the safe side.

Here are a few more pics Joe

As stated before, one end of the light (typically the end that has the alligator clip) gets attached to a good ground. i.e. battery ground (which, if your car has the original 6 volt system would be the positive post on the battery) or any clean metal on the car. The other end of the light then gets "touched" to whatever you are trying to check for current flow. For a quick test,connect the clip end to the grounded post of the battery (follow the battery cable and it should be connected to the engine block to verify that is the ground post) and then touch the other battery post with the probe end of the test light. It should light up. If you have the test light clip end attached to the "hot" side of the battery then no matter where you touch the probe end to metal it will light up. All that is doing is completing the circuit for the battery.

Looks good. How long have you been restoring your car? Mine needs some metal work - rockers, floor pan(s) and some other repairs underneath but I am not going to concern myself with those issues right now. Did you need to do any rust repair on yours and if so where did you get the parts, such as floor pans, rockers, etc?

Josh, I checked under the hood of my car. There is a black undercoating sprayed on it I suppose to deaden the noise levels. This looks to be factory applied. I did notice that towards the front section of the hood there was no undercoating and the color of the hood was NOT painted the color of the car. Instead it was the blue/gray color of all of the metal parts before they were painted. If you have seen NOS fenders you will know what color I am talking about

Josh, I have attached a few pictures of my 49 Woody. I won it in an online auction and had it delivered to me on May 1st. It needs some work but I like it (and so does everyone else) the way it is. I am located in Northeast Penna. Hard to say about the seat frame color. I have looked at pictures and I have seen the dark brown and the tan like mine. It appears to me that the darker color(s) had the dark seat frame color. Also, the 49 Woody was only offered in 3 colors. I know for certain 2 of them but not sure of the 3rd. There is an article somewhere that I read it. #1 - Malibu Brown #2 - Plymouth Cream #3 - I believe Trinidad Brown.

Hi, I just purchased a 1949 Plymouth Woody that is mostly original. I would have to look under the hood to see what color it is painted. My car is the tan color and the seat frames are painted tan and are original - scratches and all. I don't know if the frames of the seats were painted to match the color of the exterior or not from the factory. I only have my car to go by. Joe

Andydodge is correct in his statement about Woodies being built initially for commercial use. Then the Model A wagons came about and that changed everything. They became increasingly more expensive to build because of the use of wood and the amount of manual labor that was involved in the fit/finish/assembly of the body to the chassis. Essentially, a woodie was a hand-built car and what really became the main problem to buyers/owners was the semi-annual upkeep of the wood. Most owners did not keep up with sanding/varnishing because it was a tedious and annoying aspect of Woodie ownership. So, when Plymouth introduced the 1949 All-steel Suburban wagon that was the final nail in the coffin of Woodies. Also, if any of the wood was damaged (accident, rot, etc) it was much more labor intensive to repair the wood (and more expensive) than if it were sheetmetal. Also, Woodies were usually the most expensive car at the dealership(s) when new.

Thanks. So you were the competition, eh? Just kidding. Were you able to buy any of the other cars? I got the 49 Plymouth delivered to me on Tuesday morning , and as I bought it sight unseen (I was 1100 miles away from where the car was), I was more than happy with it as we unloaded it from the trailer. I will continue to update as I get the time.

IF all goes according to plan the Plymouth should be in my possession this Thursday. IF all does not go according to plan it will be a few days later. I will keep everyone posted (if interested) Joe

Hey Donald, Not to change the subject of my Post but I see you have a 47 DeSoto Suburban. I had one so many years ago and I have regretted selling it ever since. If one had come up before I purchased this Woodie I probably would have jumped at the Suburban. I also had a 1949 DeSoto Suburban (1 of 129 made) and a 1951 DeSoto Carryall. As anyone can see I like the oddball stuff. My other Woodie is a 47 T & C Sedan. The Plymouth Woodie offered me 2 of the things I like most about old cars - (1)- I like Woodie Wagons (2) - I like something that every Tom, Dick and Harry doesn't have. Anyway, when the car arrives I will get more pics and update my Post ASAP.

Exactly what I plan to do. Besides, I don't have the extra money to restore another car right now. Not only that, I am a 100% purist when it comes to old cars. If I see a car that has all of its original interior, body, etc and then there is a modern engine in it I lose interest in it in seconds. That's just me and some of the work that is done to some cars is top notch but I cannot do that. I do not believe in changing/altering anything, especially on an all original car. As far as the brakes, 6 volt system, etc... the car will do just fine as it was designed and manufactured as new. It's not as if the car will be used on a daily basis which I wish it could be. My very 1st car, when I was 17 years old (ancient history), was a 1949 Plymouth 2-door that I DID drive every day. It had the original engine, brakes, etc and served me well as it was.

NEVER.....it is staying as original as it is.

More pics

Another Picture

The details: As I stated before it was part of an online only Estate Auction. I had never before participated in anything like this. It was an online auction with no phone bidding or in-person bidding. There were several other cars being sold at the same time. As I watched the bidding, which I jumped in towards the end of the auction, I noticed that there were a couple of other bidders who were not only bidding on the Plymouth but all of the other cars as well. So I thought that I did not stand a snowballs chance in he__ trying to outbid the "heavy hitters". But, as luck would have it, I wound up being the high bidder. All-in-all the experience was a good one and all went smoothly. I have attached a few more pics.

Correct. The center section is "hinged" and folds down. There are latches on the back of both bumper guards and when they are disengaged the bumper folds down. The car having that rear bumper intact was a big selling point to me. If that bumper or section is missing it is one thing that will probably NEVER be found.

Thanks for all the positive comments. It was in an Estate Auction and, much to my surprise, I won the auction. I have not had the car delivered yet. It should be in my possession early May.

This came up and I HAD to buy it. I am partial to Woodie Wagons so I was a goner from the get-go

I have a 41 Plymouth radiator from a parts car. It looks to be in excellent condition. Let me know if you are interested and I can send some pics. Joe Please reply to my email - coozie44@yahoo.com

I have a steering box with the steering shaft still attached from a 1941 Plymouth. If you can get the casting #'s from yours we can see if it will work. Please reply to my email - coozie44@yahoo.com Joe

"But does anyone have info on the mounts themselves? I have the front plate with 2 bollts into the crossmember and 2 bolts into the plate...but the engine seems to sit in a horseshoe shaped U with nothing holding it in place but the weight of the engine...and the 2 pucks at the rear crossmember are also solid. No provision for bolt holes. I haven't blasted them yet, but, unless the crud in the holes is extremely solid (as in, I couldn't probe through it with the scraper when I started cleaning everything up), they are not present for some reason. I know it can't just sit there by gravity, but there is no place to put any bolts. Like I said, I'm missing something..." The front horseshoe plate that the engine sits on is mounted to the front bulkhead/crossmember by 2 "u" shaped "bolts that are akin in shape only to muffler clamps but much heavier metal. These 2 u-bolts come up thru the front crossmember and the front "horseshoe" bracket gets bolted to these. Then the front engine mount gets bolted to the top of the horseshoe and then there is a heavy bracket on the engine, under the water pump, that bolts to the threaded studs on the top of the motor mount. The rear "pucks" sit on top of the rear crossmember and they have 2 large washers, one on the top of the puck and one on the bottom. One of these washers has an extended male piece that runs thru the mount (puck). These are all attached to the crossmember/tranny by 2 long bolts. I have all of the parts that I mentioned for mounting the engine if you are interested and/or need them. Joe

I sent you an email and/or PM but did not get a response. I have a steering box from a 41 Plymouth. I don't know if it is the same or not. Maybe someone here will let us know. Joe