TodFitch

I guess it could be "googled" but I recall the line to be more like "I'm shocked, shocked to find gambling going on in here..."

He's got the "import approval document" with the serial number on it that matches the serial number on the door post. The problem is that he is looking for that on the frame. And he will never find it because it is not there. He might find the original engine number on the left frame rail around the rear axle kick-up. But he won't find the serial number anywhere on the chassis. If the local Australian authorities are really and truly requiring him to find a non-existent "chassis number" that is matching the serial number it has been suggested that he "find" one using a metal number stamp tool kit.

Head bolts have a relief so that they really only contact the head at the top surface. That means they won't rust in place as easily as regular bolts. There may also be a difference in bolt head size. From other posts on this forum, it seems that there is a currently available Chevrolet head bolt that works in the old Mopar L-6 engines. Try a search on that.

If you get a metal number stamping set from your local machinery supply company it might be easier to find the "chassis number".

They are no longer being manufactured by a mainstream company (WIX stopped making them about 10 years ago). I've seen some information from an Indian company that claims to make them and I've seen them in the on-line catalog of one of the "usual suspects" for old car parts. Perhaps it was Roberts but I'd have do so a search to see. Those filters show up on eBay pretty regularly too. There is a fellow who advertises in the Plymouth Owners Club's magazine that he makes a aluminum housing that matches the size and look of the disposable canister filter that opens up to take a modern filter inside. I bet its fairly expensive. What I've done is stock up on them and I've purchased a Mopar filter housing that takes the cartridge insert to use when I run out of canister filters.

Umbrellas or seals in a L-6 engine?

I think the designer(s) of the PT Cruiser was into old Fords as the front end treatment looks more 1930s "Fordish" than anything built by Chrysler in that era.

It is a top loading transmission. Just the lever is not mounted on the box. And when the boot that seals the gap between the frame and the transmission opening rots out and goes missing you can get water and other contaminants into the transmission. Yes, all Plymouth of that era had oil pressure relief valves. By late 1933 the oil pressure relief had migrated to the left side of the block and had that oil filter shut-off feature that all the later L-6 engines have.

1933 and 34 have a narrower block than later cars so some mod is needed either to the starter motor or the bell housing to put a later engine in. And the shift lever is mounted on a frame cross member, not on the transmission. So doing the mods you suggest in a way that is reversible requires careful thought. I run 60 mph on my original 33 engine with the original transmission and rear end, so it is not out of the question that his 34 could do the same. Since its not a PE, I'm pretty sure he has a taller rear end than I too. The PF also had the wire wheels, no vent windows and no door openings in the side of the hood... I like the color combination too. but then I've also got 33 two door sedan painted with a blue body and black "sheet metal". I generally set the radio (on my new car) to the local jazz station. That keeps my pressure under control. All bets are off about my pressure if I set the radio to a talk station.

Nice looking car. I'd guess an older restoration or fix up as the paint and interior look redone but in the original style. I can't tell from the photos if it is a PF, PFXX or PG. Care to tell if it has independent front suspension (PF or not) or PM the serial number from the passenger door post? That would fix the exact model number. Not too many two door sedans of that era are seen any more, mind if I add one or more of your photos to my web site?

It cuts out not based on engine RPM but on the current/voltage being put out by the generator. Do you really need full generator output at idle? If so, then maybe an alternator is in your future.

As long as the topic has been hijacked... During the happy hour prior to a banquet I went to last night they served hors d'oeuvres. One of the items were deviled eggs which were slightly different than I'd ever had as they contained lobster. Not something I'd consider putting into the recipe, but they were quite good.

You crankcase is vented via the road draft tube and the screen in the oil filler cap. Regardless of the conditions or faults of the fuel pump it should not be possible for it to pressurise your crankcase. However, if it is leaking gas into the crankcase then you can have real problems. From oil dilution leading to increased wear and leaking to the possibility of an explosion that can rip your engine apart.

Acids will remove rust. Vinegar is acidic. I much prefer the electrolytic rust removal process. It does not use harmful chemicals, it is fast, it does not etch away good metal if you leave the part in too long.

From the first post on this thread: My car also starts every time without expensive changes or problems created using 8 volt or 12 volt setups. It just has the stock 6v starter, the proper battery cables, and a standard 6v group 1 lead acid battery. So tell me again why I should spend big $ to put an Optima in? Especially why spend $$$ to put two Optimas in parallel in? Please also Google around for people's experiences using Optima batteries on vehicles with mechanical type regulators. There is enough there to give one pause. Or simply look at forum member James Douglass' experiences with Optima and what his research turned up...

Not sure yours is the same as the one on my old Plymouth. But on the assumption it is, there is a little stiffening curve on the stamped metal fan blades near the hub that provide a gap at the hub. I use a screwdriver as a small pry bar to walk the fan blade off. Just a little pry at a time on each of the four spots around the hub so it doesn't get cocked to much on its way off.

Antique Auto Parts Cellar a.k.a. Then and Now Automotive.

See this post in another thread: http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=28211&highlight=national&page=2#td_post_260822

The "User CP" link on the top of the forum area is not working for you?

Okay, the illustrations on the NAPA Online web site for the SEP VK63 sure do look like the correct keepers. But they don't list them as an interchange with Chrysler number 1313268 which is what the parts book calls for for the 1936-38 Plymouth motors. Did that change for 1952 and the keepers are in someway different. Or am I safe listing the NAPA SEP VK63 as a good interchange for 1936-48? Edit: Cancel that, the VK63 is the valve spring retainer LOCK, Chrysler part number 395931. So I still don't have a cross for the retainer, just the locks.

Maybe. If they have a city named Ann Arbor. I think they need to hire competent copy editors and proof readers.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2019340/Hapless-blonde-crashes-250k-Bentley-FOUR-supercars.html

I've never bothered with the ratchet type for crimping stranded wires because I do this: Soldering irons are pretty cheap, not all that hard to use, and make a permanent, oxidation free connection. There is only one gotcha: It will stiffen the wire where the solder wicks along the strands, so you need to be careful that the wire will not be flexing in that area or it will fatigue and break. I do use the ratchet type crimper/installer tools when working with coax cable and with telephone/networking cables.

Cool. I did not know that. I was always just doing a copy/paste. Now that I've had my learning for the day I guess I can go to bed.

Pozidrive and Phillips are really similar. And I've used a Phillips screwdriver on occasion to work on my ski bindings which are held on with Pozidrive screws.