TodFitch

Can't see or hear it: "This video is private..."

Does that dual master provide equal pressure to both front and rear? If not then you've explained your symptom...

There is a brass fitting that has a pipe thread that screws into the head. You may wish to use pipe thread sealant when installing that. The sensor bulb goes into that brass fitting and then the gland nut on the capillary tubing is installed to hold the bulb in place. That fitting has machine threads and should not need sealant. If you are missing the special brass fitting that goes into the head there usually is an assortment of them in the package with the cheap mechanical temperature gauge sold in the bubble pack auto supply store.

Hard to say without hearing it but one of the things a air filter does is act as a sound suppressor. I believe that in the early days they were even advertised as such. I know that when I swapped out the air filter that was on my car then I got it (looks like the one for a '34) with the correct (per Plymouth Club) one for '33 there was a big increase in the whooshing sound when the engine revs were up. Another source of that could be the fan or if not the fan directly, air flow from the fan or vehicle motion moving across something. If its only on deceleration from a high RPM then it might be related to the manifold vacuum. Perhaps you have a leak somewhere, maybe on the line to the wiper.

Congratulations on "turning it over". Really clean looking dash there. My first glance made me think it was identical to the '61 Ford that my Dad had as commuter vehicle when I got my drivers license. I think it was a Galaxy but it could have been a Fairlane. All I remember is that it was a dog of a car with stiff controls and rattles everywhere. If I recall correctly it had vacuum wipers too. The family car, a '63 Plymouth Suburban, was an absolute dream to drive and ride in compared to that Ford.

Something like this? http://www.autometer.com/media_newsarticle.aspx?yr=2012&mo=3&pg=1&aid=124 I rigged a 6v+ to 5v- USB power adapter for my '33 so I can power the smart phone that has a GPS and a map application. No need to go to 12v for that. http://www.ply33.com/Repair/cellphone

Serial Number 13829311 Found in range 13506001 to 13829336 Serial 323311 of 323336 Year 1954 Make Plymouth Model Name Plaza, Savoy or Belvedere Model Code P25-1, P25-2 or P25-3 Plant Detroit Engine 6 cylinder 217.8 cu.in. L-head Wheelbase 114 inches That 217.8 cu. in. is probably wrong on my "calculator" as they switched to 230 during the heart and your serial number is near the end of the run. I need to find out what the effective number for the switch was and update my tables....

That wire is not directional.... Sounds like a bad connection at one end or the other that your removal and re-installation fixed.

First year for a VIN code for Plymouth was either '58 or '59 depending on if you consider the '58 serial number format a VIN number or not. Before that there were serial numbers. In the era of your car the serial number plate was on the left (driver) side front door post. I believe on the hinge side. And, at least in the '30s they were riveted on and I don't see why they would have changed that.

I am guessing that the D24 pump would be the same as a P15 pump. So take a look at http://www.ply33.com/Parts/group14#14-73-02. But if the body of your existing is in okay shape you can rebuild it with parts from the Antique Auto Parts Cellar a.k.a Then and Now Automotive.

When I did all my brake work I was living on the north side of the LA metro area and I found a brake and hydraulic supply in the San Fernando Valley that had conifer brake tubing. They were the shop that made up the aeroquip stainless steel braided hoses for all the street rod types. It seems likely to me that there would be a similar business in the Fresno area so you might be able to purchase the tubing locally. Actually, other than for a couple of beta testers, the oldest join date you will see on this forum is Oct 2006 because that was when it replaced the "old forum". If you see a member with Oct 2006 for their join date there is a very good chance that they were hanging around here before then.

It would be really inexpensive to clean out the old tank and see if it has leaks or not before dropping dough on a new tank "just because" its been sitting for a while. I used a handful sharp edged gravel (not rounded river stuff) and a bit of shaking to loosen the crud up in mine then washed it out. Cost nothing but an afternoon of "free to me" labor. Just make sure you get all the gravel out when you are done.

I don't see how pressure could build up in the tank. Assuming the vent in the cap was blocked as fuel is removed it will create a void which means low pressure. Having a electric pump shouldn't make any difference.

Double down on that if you've used DOT-5, it entrains bubbles very easily.

You setup is a little different from mine in the following respects: 1. 6.00x16 versus 5.50x17 2. You probably have "safety rims" so the bead will be harder to break 3. Your pressed steel rims are probably safe in a tire changing machine while my wire wheels can be (and have been) damaged by attempting to break the bead on a machine. So my experience might not match up with yours, but I say: Do it yourself. My first experience with putting tires on resulted in the shop damaging my wheels, so I've done my own tire maintenance for the last 30 years on my old Plymouth. I don't even have official tire irons or spoons, I just use a couple of broken spring leafs I had laying around that I ground the ends on. I notice that Harbor Freight has cheap tire spoons that would probably work better. If you have a bumper jack and an available car you have a bead breaking machine: Just put the tire on the ground slightly under the car, the jack on top of tire and try to jack up the car. The bead will pop before the car is raised. From there on out, it is just like a over sized bicycle tire. Takes bigger tools and more force but pretty doable with nothing but hand labor. Do all your dirty work with the appearance side of the wheel down on something that won't scratch it and your tire iron marks on the rim will end up on the inside where only you'll know about them. I use the front lawn as the grass won't chip the paint on the wheel. Use some talcum powder in the tire when you reassemble. It will help getting everything together and allow the tube to move with little friction between it and the tire to find its spot when you first inflate it. You might want to mark the tire for the valve stem position before you take things apart so that you can put it back where you found it and not upset the balance too much. While you current problem may will be damage to the tube from being pinched, the original flat might be because of a nail picked up in the tire so you should check that. I've actually had very good luck repairing relatively new tube using the still available tube patching kits. I wouldn't bother though on a tube that was more than a couple of years old.

No. Heat means a bad connection or bad component. Check all your electrical connections in that area, make sure they are tight and that you have star type washers on them to bite through the corrosion and make a good connection.

I guess I've never gotten very good at "wrenching" then.

Assuming you are talking about the oil pressure gauge line, you don't need to bleed it at all. Oil will go into it until the pressure in the line matches the oil pressure in the block and that is all you care about.

How does nylon hold up to exposure to ethanol?

I don't have a P15 so this is second hand, but I think there is supposed to be a ferrule in there. Might want to do a search on the forum about that.

I'm guessing that drums would be a bit easier to find but if it were me I'd try my hardest not to have to replace either. Could you just take a long some wheel dollies and some wood for the dollies to roll on to get the vehicle on to the trailer? That would allow you to work at your leisure in your shop environment to free up any frozen brakes. Might save you some considerable money and frustration finding parts....

No personal experience with this but "glazed or varnished over" doesn't sound like a good thing to me with respect to heat transfer.

Not sure if you can use the bushing you have or not, but the wear area is or should be the threads on the inside of the bushing and/or the threads on the U. And those threads take the side thrust so you want them to be in good condition. Like many things the Chrysler engineers did back then, those shackles will last a long time if properly lubricated but will wear out in a hurry if let go dry. A little like the Detroit ball and trunnion U-joints in that regard. By the way, the later parts book on the car side show a 0.010 oversized bushing. I guess if the bushing started turning in the spring it would wear the spring eye enough that a larger bushing was needed...

Assuming you have the "silent U" spring shackles on that... Actually the bushing does not rotate with respect to the spring so it can go in "hard". The screwing motion is between the U-bolt thing and the shackle bushing. The bushing should be screwed in while you are installing the U bolt thing: Align the spring and U where they should be then screw in the bushing. I no longer have spares and there are some variations on size so the ones for my '33 may not have been correct for your truck anyway... I think that Rare Parts has them but I don't know if they will sell single bushings or if you have to buy a whole kit with both bushings and the U.

...and potentially toxic additives the manufacturer used to make the oil or grease better for its intended use in machinery.