Rusty O'Toole

A 39 engine had 6.5:1 compression ratio, so a compression reading of 85 PSI is quite good. The main thing is that it is uniform on all cylinders, or close to it. That means your engine is in good shape. Usually if the compression is good and the oil pressure is good, your bearings, pistons, rings, and valves are all good. Sometimes if an engine has been out of commission for a long time it will burn a little oil until it gets a few hundred miles on it. Try retorqueing the bolts, if that does not work a new gasket will be needed. My data only goes back to 1942 but .008 (intake) .010 (exhaust) was standard on Chrysler built flatheads. It was supposed to be checked hot.

I spoke too soon, further searching turned up another 49 Dodge hearse, only this one was built in Ireland on a pickup truck chassis! http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1078824

I have seen hearses built from the twenties to the fifties. In those days, if the chassis had to be extended the customary way to do it was with lengths of steel channel overlapped and bolted together. Welding was not considered reliable in that application. Car makers offered special long chassis to coachbuilders. But some preferred to convert existing sedans, or wanted a length of chassis not available.

If you like professional cars how about a 1949 Dodge hearse? http://1949hearse.blogspot.com/ Made from a new car in Ingersoll Ontario, it is believed to be the only 49 Dodge hearse in existence.

If everything looks as good as you say I would clean things up, put them back together with cylinder kits and be happy. The only problem with bonded linings is that the glue can fail when they are very old. I have only seen this on cars that were 30 or 40 years old with linings to match. It may be due to corrosion or dampness. In your case it sounds like the brake shoes are not that old so they should be OK. No need to rough them up. If they need a clean up a shot of Brake Kleen spray and a wipe down with a clean rag should do it. Now if they were soaked in grease or brake fluid you would have to replace them, I am talking about ordinary cleaning as part of a brake job. The rubbing surface of the brake drums can be cleaned up with 100 sandpaper if they are rusty.

Doubtful. Today's tires are meant to go on wider rims. Best to check with the tire dealer or manufacturer. The dealer should have the info in his catalog or you could check online.

I understand the typical flathead 6 weighs 600 lbs. Not sure if this is with or without accessories. About the same as a V8. A 318 is 580 and a big block 650. Chev 283, 540. The old wide block 318, 625. A 225 slant six, 450

Instructions from Steele Rubber web site. There is a PDF on there with these instructions plus a couple of illustrations if you want to look it up. The following general instructions are to be used only as a guide. For more model specific instructions, refer to your vehicle body service manual. Place weatherstrip on body first. Take care to place the weatherstrip in the proper direction. If slotted for reveal molding, slot is always to the outside. Depending on model and year, some locking strips are on the outside while others are in the inside. Determine the proper side and place on pinchweld. The upper portions can be held in place with masking tape. The glass is installed from the locking strip side. Lubricate the ¼” glass groove to allow the glass to find center while installing. Place glass in the bottom section first and press in the locking strip in the lower section only. This will hold your glass from falling in. The weatherstrip has no holding strength without the locking strip. Carefully work the glass into the rest of the weatherstrip. It’s best to work up each side, then the top, removing the tape when the glass reaches that point. Apply clear sealer between the outside glass and weatherstrip and auto bedding/glazing compound between the body and weatherstrip. Clean excess sealant. Install any reveal molding that attaches to the rubber. Press the rest of the locking strip into the rubber. Glass should be held firmly in place. Clean any additional excess sealant.

You should be able to buy whatever you need at the nearest auto parts store. They all carry brake lines in various lengths. Today's cars use the same type of brake lines, they are a standard size and fittings. Get a bending tool and a set of line wrenches while you are there. If you want to be really particular you can also get a flaring tool and cut the lines to the exact length and reflare them. But most times if the line is a little too long you just put an extra bend or loop in it. I like to prebend the line using the old line as a guide. But if you do not have the old line you can bend the line as you install it.

Your truck has a 6 volt + ground system while the Dak has a 12 volt - ground. So no, it will not work unless there is more to it than you are telling us. There should be a good auto electric shop in your area that can rebuild your generator for the same or less as buying an alternator. Or, it might only be a regulator you need. Later. I see by another post you have already changed the vehicle to 12 volt - ground. In that case it becomes easy. All you need to do is find the wiring diagram for the Dakota and wire the alternator the same way. I don't have a Dakota wiring diagram handy but if it is like other 1995 Dodge alternators R6 = main power to battery +, R9 = ground, J2 = keyed power, R3= single board engine controller cavity.

In fairness 2 out of 3 guys in the picture were wearing their hats the right way around. As for the 3d guy there's one in every crowd.

No doubt gas is far superior but not everyone has the choice. And sometimes it's not worth the bother, I don't do a lot of welding so if I run out of gas, will fall back on the flux core for small repair jobs until I really need the MIG. Then go get a new gas bottle.

The optional Dodge 4 speed was for heavy duty use with a super low "granny" low for towing and hauling heavy loads. For highway and everyday driving you want an overdrive 4 speed or 5 speed. There is nothing that fits directly, you will have to adapt something from a more modern car or truck. You should be able to have something made up locally. At least, I see some wild adaptations on Aussie vehicles. Maybe some of our Australian readers will have some ideas of where you can get a transmission installed.

Yes you can have the wire feed too high. Try cutting it way down to 2 or 3 and welding slower. You may have to cut your power a little too. You should get good penetration and not waste so much wire. Go so slow you can't stand it then speed it up a little. By the way when you need more wire do not buy the cheap stuff get a good name brand like Lincoln, it will be like night and day. It is possible to get a decent weld even with a cheap flux core welder if you use good wire and take your time.

I agree with you about the minivans. I changed my work vehicle from a pickup truck to a Chrysler minivan years ago. The minivan is more comfortable, handles better, the low floor makes it easy to load and unload, your stuff doesn't get wet or stolen, has more traction especially when empty or on snowy or rainy roads, cheaper to buy and to run, and will do 90% of what a pickup truck will. And for the other 10% I have a trailer. The minivan is one of the greatest inventions of the auto industry in the last 50 years. And all thanks to Chrysler corporation. But as usual they don't get the credit for it.

Flathead Chrysler industrial block with sleeves. There were different options available such as, choice of chain driven or gear driven camshaft. Updraft or downdraft carburetors. Exhaust manifolds discharging up or down. They even made reverse rotation engines for marine use, with special distributors generators and starters.

I believe car bodies were originally made of 18 or 19 gauge, 20 is a hair thinner but easier to work, that is why it is used to make patch panels. 22 is even easier to work but I don't like it, it is too thin. You could salvage metal from an old body panel but if you need to form it to shape it is very hard to rework.

Evidently Chrysler Corp thought hardened sleeves qualify as "heavy duty" since they only use them in the industrial engines. As the source of this information is not between your ears it must be bogus so don't worry about it.

Andy I believe Chrysler had a factory in Turkey that produced trucks. For some reason they were usually badged as DeSotos and Fargos. This may account for the supply of parts.

I even have a 225 cu in industrial engine. It is a 3 7/16 bore, 25" block with a 4 1/16" stroke crankshaft. In other words, the DeSoto/Chrysler block with the short stroke crankshaft usually found in Canadian made 3 3/8 bore 218 Plymouth and Dodge engines. This engine was made in the US industrial engines plant. This particular combination of parts was never used as a car or truck engine. If you find an industrial engine you are in luck, they come with heavy duty parts including a block with sleeved cylinders.

There were 2 different six cylinder engines made by Chrysler Corporation for cars, light trucks, and also military equipment, industrial engines, and marine engines from 1938 to 1972. The smaller engine measures 23 inches long at the cylinder head, it was used in Plymouth, Dodge, Dodge trucks and marine and industrial use. Most common are 217 cu in (Plymouth) and 230 cu in (Dodge). Cars and light trucks used these engines until 1959. The larger engine measures 25 inches long at the cylinder head, it was used in DeSoto, Chrysler cars and some heavy Dodge trucks up to 1962 and as a marine and industrial power plant up to 1972. Military Dodge Power Wagons used this engine until 1968. Usually found in 236, 251, and 265 cu in versions. The 251 is most common, the 265 rather rare as it was used only in 1953 and 54 Chrysler Windsor and as a marine and industrial engine. Canadian made cars got only the long engine. The Canadian plant made a special version with a 3 3/8 cylinder bore and 218 and 228 cu in for Canadian made Plymouth, Dodge and Dodge trucks. Canadian made DeSotos got the 265 engine in 1953 and 54, along with Chrysler. Massey Ferguson tractors and combines used Chrysler engines for years, from the late 30s up to the sixties. Possibly the wildest application of the flathead six was an army tank engine made during WW2, that consisted of 5 industrial engines bunched together like bananas. http://www.allpar.com/history/military/arsenal-of-democracy.html As you live in Sweden you may find almost anything. If you find an engine that looks like a Chrysler product get the serial number, that will tell more than anything. Serial numbers usually start with a C for Chrysler, D for Dodge, P for Plymouth, S for DeSoto, T for Dodge truck, IND for industrial. This is a brief outline, there are other details and other engines I have not mentioned. Here is a good site to help identify different engines, it is part of the Vintage Power Wagon web site, they are great experts on the old Dodge Power Wagon trucks and have lots of parts too. http://t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php Very briefly, flathead sixes were used in Chrysler and DeSoto cars, up to 1954 Dodge and Plymouth cars, and Dodge pickup trucks up to 1959 Large trucks, 1 1/2 ton and larger, to 1962 Military Power Wagon 4 wheel drive trucks, to 1968 Industrial engines to 1972. Incidentally you may find export "DeSotos"that were actually badge engineered Plymouths having the flathead engine up to 1959.

Body shops use 20 gauge or 22 ga. 20 is heavier. Aluminum killed is the best for most uses. Your auto supply stores should have it. Costs about $35 for a 3'X4' sheet.