Rusty O'Toole

218 and 230 pistons are the same. The difference is in the stroke of the crankshaft and the length of the connecting rods (230 rods are shorter). This was a common way of making different engines for different cars with minimal cost for tooling and parts.

For a regular rebuild used or NOS pistons should be fine, and not expensive. For a performance rebuild Ross or other hi perf pistons might be an advantage. In any case you should buy new rings even if your NOS pistons come with rings. There have been great advances in piston rings in the last 20 years such as low tension and low drag, which pay off in less friction and wear especially in a long stroke motor. Domed pistons will not do you any good. Ford flatheads use a domed piston but all Chrysler products use a flat top piston with a flat cylinder head. Highest compression stock head is found on 1958 and newer engines.

Someone went to a lot of trouble to ape the look of a 56 Plymouth Fury.

Around here farmers and other stick old rusty farm machinery in the front yard for an ornament. Why don't you paint your old equipment in gaudy colors and call it land art? I've seen worse looking junk passed off as art and so have you.

Multi grade oils were available starting in 1951 and detergent oils a few years earlier. In gas stations and garages around the country, 10W30 detergent oil was the default choice for everything in the fifties, sixties and seventies. Chances are your old MoPar has never used anything else. In recent years they have been skimping on the ZDDP or zinc additives. This is not so good for pushrod OHV engines but OK for later model overhead cam engines, and likewise for your old underhead cam (flathead) engine. The flathead has low pressure on the valve train just like an OHC engine. They never had trouble with lifter and cam wear until they introduced OHV engines. So almost any good name brand oil will work OK in your old MoPar unless it is an OHV performance V8. 10W30, 10W40, 20W50, whatever. If it is in good shape and does not burn oil the lighter stuff is fine. If it is worn, using heavier oil will not do much good but if it makes you feel better go ahead. Do not fall for the old sucker play of using 30 or 50 non detergent. That myth has been going around since the Stanley Steamer left town. It does not apply to any car made after VJ day.

You can buy a gauge at any parts store and be sure. Here are 2 different kinds, the old kind http://www.made4uproducts.com/tools.htm The newer kind http://www.myboltpattern.com/Bolt-Pattern-Pro.php There are other kinds as well.

P28 engine = 1956 Plymouth, 230 cu in, 3 1/4 X 4 5/8 bore and stroke, 7.6:1 compression, 125 HP @ 3600 RPM, 200 lb ft of torque @ 1600 RPM. This was the standard engine in US built 1956 Plymouths. It came with a 1 barrel carburetor. The same engine was available with a 2 barrel carburetor, that one had 131 HP @ 3600 RPM and 203 ft lbs torque @ 2000 RPM.

You can buy speedo cable grease at any parts store. A small tube will do several cars. Detach the cable at the transmission and pull out the inner cable. Wipe it clean and grease with fresh grease, do not grease the top 6" or 1 foot. You do not want the grease to work its way into the speedo. Put the inner back in, you may have to spin it with your fingers to get the upper end to go in the speedo. Put the end back on the transmission. Should be done every 10 or 20 years. If the cable is kinked or rusted it will probably need to be replaced. But as long as it works smoothly it's OK.

Can't say about B series trucks but my 1970 Fargo had one and so did several other MoPar products of the fifties, sixties and seventies. On the other hand some cars and trucks do not, I believe they have been removed during engine work etc. Most times the engine/body will make a ground somehow but as the engine and body are both mounted on rubber, it is by no means guaranteed. I put a 59 Olds V8 in an old Willys once. While driving along, the choke cable got red hot, melted and fell on the floor in pieces. I believe, because it was the only thing grounding the engine. Yet I drove the car for several months before this happened, it must have been grounding somehow, then that night the engine shifted around and no longer had a ground except thru the choke cable. Newer cars have a jumper wire off the battery clamp that grounds to the inner fender. In other words, the battery ground clamp may have 2 or 3 grounds on it for different things. A big one to the engine, a smaller one to the body, and possibly a third to ground an electrical fuse panel or relay panel.

According to James Douglas information, the thinnest oil will work the best which seems logical to me. The only drawback to too thin oil would be the possibility of leakage from the shaft seal. This could be determined only by experimenting. But if the oil is not too much thinner than original it should not leak. In other words if I had ISO22 on hand I would give it a try. 2 gallons should fill up a Fluid Drive unit. Let us know how it works.

Older MoPars had a small woven metal ground strap between the firewall and the back of the engine. This was called the body ground. Then there was a bigger ground from the engine block to the battery.

Did you ask the locksmith what blank you need as in part number? Original equipment keys are on Ebay all the time but you need to know which one will fit your locks.

1. Never heard of one wearing out. Doubt it is possible. Some get damaged by blowing high pressure compressed air through them which creates channels or holes, that allow dirty air to pass right through. If this has happened it should be fairly obvious. 2. Look at it. If the base is full of dirt and the filter medium is caked with dirt it is dirty. You service them as necessary, as often as once per day in extremely dirty and dusty conditions, such as a dump truck on a construction site in the desert. Normally service once a year at tuneup time. If I take the lid off and the reservoir is full of oil, and the dirt is half way or less, I put the lid back on. After topping up the oil if necessary. The filter itself works better once it gets a coat of dust and oil on it, as long as it is not too clogged up. 3. Soak in a pan of kerosene or varsol, slosh up and down a few times. Allow to drip dry. Pour some oil in, roll it around to coat the filter and let drip out again. Pour the old oil out of the base, wipe out the dirt with old rags or cotton waste and refill with fresh oil. You can reuse the oil if you let the dirt settle out. 4. Don't know SAE50 oil recommended but lighter oil will work. SAE20 recommended for below freezing weather. Too light oil will slosh around under rough road conditions and get into the motor, as someone mentioned. The cost of the oil is not huge. One quart could easily last 10 years or more. On today's paved roads, given the typical modest use our cars get. Still cheaper than paper filters. I like the oil bath filter and consider them a luxury feature as well as a money saver. Heavy trucks and construction equipment with big $$$$$ expensive motors continued to use them for years after cars changed to paper. The big advantage of paper is they are a lot cheaper for the car makers, and were easier to fit in as hoods got lower and engine compartments more crowded.

Steering is apt to be somewhat vague compared to modern cars. On a 52 Chrysler with the same front end I counted 22 joints or wear points in the steering and suspension. If the front end is like new 3" or 4" of play at the steering wheel is normal. Check the bolts holding the steering box, don't overlook the bellcrank pivot either. Parts may be available from your local NAPA store, at least I got king pins and bushings for a 59 Ford pickup over the counter. If the front end checks out OK an alignment and a set of shocks will make it drive and ride much nicer. If the front end is worn replace parts as necessary.

Steel wool held with needle nose pliers. Second the dielectric grease suggestion, or any grease for that matter. Have seen it on some cars from the factory.

No doubt, no doubt. But if the engine is running good there may be other things the truck needs first.

The felt or cotton pad was used after the stock setup plugged up or failed. They sold the same thing for Y block Fords which were also notorious for inadequate rocker arm lubrication.

I'm not crazy about Chev swaps but if it is running good why mess with it?

"Will disassemble old cloth for patterns. " Not a good idea. The old material will be shrunk and stretched in different directions. You need to develop new patterns using butcher paper or wrapping paper off the seats themselves. Any good book on upholstery will show you how, you can pick up the books for free at the library. Another good method is to make the pattern for one side, then fold it over and trace the other side so both sides are the same.

What a Rube Goldberg mess. The oil goes to the head where the rockers fling it around, it dribbles down and oils the valves, pushrods and rockers as it goes. In the old days, an accessory you could buy for your Chev was a mini mattress made of felt or cotton stuffing sewn into a cloth cover. You were supposed to soak it in oil, lay it on top of the rocker arms and put the valve cover back on. The oil would lubricate the rocker assembly, valves and pushrods. At oil change time you would soak it with oil again. If this sounds like a primitive lashup you are right. But was better than the factory arrangement, at least until the rockers wore through the cloth and the cotton stuffing went all through your oiling system. It's the later Chev V8 that pumps the oil up through the pushrods then flings it around like a gusher gone berserk.

Sell it as is and discount the price accordingly. Have sold many old cars, it almost never pays to do any more than minor repairs. Clean it as well as possible inside and out and let it go at that.

I manufactured fruitcakes for the Christmas trade. No kidding, I used to work at Weston Bakeries in Cobourg which makes 70% of the fruitcake sold in North America under 132 different brand names. If you buy a fruitcake, chances are we made it. Actually that job only lasted a couple of months but it was fun. All the equipment dated back to the thirties and forties, but perfectly maintained and painted white. It was fun working on all that Art Deco machinery. Other than that, worked in garages and body shops until my lungs played out. Also other factories besides Weston's. On the side, invested in real estate. So now I have a pension from the Canadian government of $121.58 a month plus what I get from 4 free and clear houses I own, plus a stock market account and some precious metals stashed away in a safety deposit box, just in case. Will tell everybody, do not depend on the government or your employer for your retirement. I think real estate is the best investment for most people, but if you don't like real estate get something else. Start your retirement plan NOW the sooner you start the easier it is.

On the other hand it's nice to see money getting into the right hands for a change. If he takes the cars to shows the public at large probably gets more enjoyment out of it than the owner. It is also a heart warming to see American products are still appreciated around the world. Now if we could only come up with new cars that inspire the same desire.

We can start by using it on our windshields and spark plugs. Would be fantastic in car wax, and for coating the undersides of cars. Self cleaning stain free upholstery would be nice too. If it will stand heat, coat the inside of your motor to prevent sludge buildup. Wonder if they sell stock in the company. As long as it doesn't cause hives or galloping dandruff I can see this stuff being more popular than WD40.

You don't need a commercial machine for seat covers. An ordinary home sewing machine is fine. In fact I have heard of guys doing complete upholstery jobs with one, they took their time and did not use vinyl. In any case ordinary fabric will make fine seat covers, better than the cheap stuff they use for regular seat covers. Why not buy a few yards of material at a remnant store and have a go? Even if the material wears out in 5 years so what, you can make new ones.