Rusty O'Toole

P6D1 "does not compute". P6 = 38 Plymouth, D1 = 39 Dodge but both together??? Looks like factory stamping too. There must be some logical explanation but I don't know what it could be. Sorry.

So long Okie. You are the one who came on my thread throwing your weight around. I'm not going to miss you and it looks like I am not the only one.

Hey Tim it was just a suggestion. I'm not going to jump out of the computer and force anyone to build anything they don't want. Like you I have seen beginners get in way over their head, thinking they have to have some super racing motor like they saw on TV. (they don't). Have also seen more experienced guys build very clean, well done, cars that do not draw a glance from the general public, but are as practical and enjoyable to drive as a new car. When I talk about a chassis I am thinking about more than the frame. The chassis also includes steering, suspension, rear axle, springs, brakes. If I mean the bare frame I will say frame. We seem to see eye to eye on most things. Have a nice day.

Tim I never said the chassis was "weak". I was trying to put myself in the questioner's place. He already told us he does not have a lot of dough and wants to get the car on the road and have some fun on a budget. So, my suggestion is to go with the 318. Easier to install, nicer to drive, better mileage, he can have a lot of fun without spending big $$$$ bucks. The 440 will fit, physically. But I would not recommend driving a 600HP 440 on stock brakes, stock tires, stock rear axle. To do the job right will cost a lot more than putting in a 318. Not so much the cost of the engine itself, as all the mods you need to do to make it safe. Now if the owner wants to spend the money on better brakes, suspension etc at a later date the small block is not hopeless. He will not be wasting his time or money putting in the 318. If he wants more power later, a hopped up 318 or 360 will fit in place of the stock 318. But for the time being a stock, 2 barrel 318, 180HP will work well with the stock suspension etc provided the driver is half way sensible and does not give it the works all the time. A 440 would just be overkill without major, and expensive, chassis mods. Basically I was agreeing with your original post. You said the 440 was overkill before I did. I also agree that the Dakota V6, like you put in your 51, would be a good choice but he did not ask that.

You are the one who said you had a 392. On reviewing the thread, you say you "were told" it was a 392 then went on about your local rebuilders telling you the engine was worthless, they would not even take it FOR NOTHING. Now it seems you do not have a 392 and never did. Whoever told you you did, it was not your local rebuilders. OK now I get it. In the meantime I am still confused. I know the Chrysler 392 is the desirable engine, the DeSoto not so much. If I got the DeSoto it would be with the idea of some day using it in a light weight hot rod with an open engine compartment like a T bucket, roadster or the like. Just for fun and to have something a little unusual. No drag racing or other racing contemplated. So, how do I determine what is a fair price? I don't want to overpay and I don't want to gyp anybody. The seller is a good guy but touchy. He has given me good deals in the past but I know if he thought somebody was trying to chisel, or flip something for a quick buck, he would scrap it before he sold it. By the way if you don't like my manners I don't blame you. I am not crazy about them myself. But I found out if you beat around the bush and pussy foot around a lot of guys can't see what the hell you are driving at. So, I may be blunt but I do pass along some good information once in a while. It would be nice if I could get a straight answer to a simple question. As far as my bona fides I have been working on old cars, for myself and as a garage mechanic, since 1964. Have considerable experience of old Chrysler products including early hemis. So I am not exactly a greenhorn.

The 318 will fit with some finagling. It is not an easy swap, but easier than a 440. The 440 would be way too much motor for your brakes, suspension, chassis etc etc. Don't overmatch your car. Even if you get it in it will be miserable to drive and a gas hog to boot. The 318 will be way better, and result in a better balanced car. If you later want more HP the 318 can be hopped up or replaced with a 360. A good 360 can be made to give 400HP without too much trouble.

OHV engines typically have higher compression than flatheads. Your flathead in perfect condition might go 110. Anything over 100 is considered very good. ................................................................ Later I have been trying to find what is normal compression pressure for flathead Chrysler engines. It turns out it is hard to pin down.Have not been able to find any official recommendation in any manual. As near as I can figure, 110 would be perfect for a prewar engine, 120 for a post war engine, the last ones with higher compression 130.

Yes.

Right off the bat there is no such thing as a 392 DeSoto hemi. The only 392 was the 1957-58 hemi used in New Yorker and Imperial only. Not many were made and hundreds were used and used up in top fuel dragsters between the late fifties and early sixties. These are the most desirable, and most expensive early Hemi. Believe me, $1000 is cheap for one that is complete, has a good block, heads, crank etc and can be rebuilt. Don't believe me, go ahead and do a web search and see what they are going for. DeSoto is a completely different animal. They have very little following either the engines or the cars. I have seen them go on Ebay for under $1000 parts cars with hemi engines. A 57 Chev or even an Edsel is far more in demand. Even so the engine must have some value. If I got one I would put it away for a possible future hot rod project. To say they are worthless and of no value, because they are not a small block Chev is ridiculous. So, go ahead and listen to your so called experts and sell your hemi for scrap iron, it's no skin off my nose.

Auto supply shops that sell paint and body supplies have the sheet metal. 20 or 22 gauge (20 is thicker). This is a little thinner than your car is made of but it is what body shops use. The thick stuff is too hard to bend and work with. 20 gauge is best. 22 kind of flimsy but easier to cut and work by hand. "Aluminum killed" is good it keeps off rust and you can weld it. DO NOT use galvanized, it gives off a poison gas when welded. Spot welding is fine, car makers have been building them by spot welding for more than 80 years. Fill the seam with seam sealer or butyl caulking after welding. I have spot welded doors, fenders etc, and filled over the seam with body filler and never had a problem BUT you must seal it first. If it is not sealed moisture will come in from behind and lift the filler or cause blisters. Notice how the seams on your new car are spot welded then sealed with seam sealer (caulking). Contrary to popular belief brazing will not cause paint or filler to lift. It is the flux. You have to get all that flux off, every bit. I rub the weld with a wet rag while it is still hot and almost all the flux pops off. Then get in there good with a wire brush in a drill. Do not leave any holes or gaps, weld them up or seal with seam sealer. Sandblasting the seams cleans off the flux too but makes a mess. You should look into the panel adhesive they make for installing panels. It is easy to use and does not burn or warp the metal like welding. Car makers have been gluing their new cars together with this stuff for 20 years.

Never buy cheap brake parts.

When you do a compression test you can check the worn cylinders by squirting in some oil and retesting. If compression comes up the problem is rings, if it does not the problem is a burned valve. It sounds like you need an overhaul not a complete rebuild. Grind valves, hone cylinders, replace rings, possibly new bearings. Such a job can be done at home without removing the engine from the car, except for grinding the valve seats. Cost around $500.

Polarizing a generator. Every generator has electromagnets inside it. They are energized by the battery when the engine is running. But the circuit does not kick in until the regulator senses that the gen is working. The reason is, they want the gen to automatically shut off when the engine is not running, otherwise it would discharge the battery. Fortunately the electromagnet has a steel core that stays a little bit magnetic when the engine is off. This makes the gen produce a little bit of electricity as soon as it starts turning, enough to kick in the voltage reg. Now, if the generator is taken apart, or if it sits around long enough, it will lose its residual magnetism. Without this residual magnetism the generator will never put out any power and the regulator will never kick in. So, you have to remagnetise it manually. Incidentally any generator will work either + ground or - ground depending how it is magnetised. This is why they call it "polarizing" the generator, you are actually resetting the polarity of the magnets. Generators have bronze bearings that are not as durable as the roller bearings in alternators. You do not adjust the belt as tight, it should be snug but not tight, they say you should be able to deflect the fan belt 3/4" by pressing it with your thumb. The bearings need to be oiled at each oil change, just a drop or 2 in the oil cups. Normal life of a generator, 20 to 30 thousand miles between rebuilds. Yours may be in need of a rebuild if the bearings are worn and noisy.

Joelokie a 392 hemi in the condition you describe is worth well over $1000. If the block is not cracked, the crankshaft and heads are good etc. Someone who knows those engines can get the parts easily and rebuild it. Your local rebuilders are used to building Chev 350s for pickup trucks. They don't know anything about hemis. The DeSoto is a different story. I know they are less desirable than the big Chrysler but they must be worth more than a Chev small block. When I go see it I want to make the guy a fair offer. He has been more than reasonable with me in the past, selling me parts cheap and even giving me small stuff for nothing.

I would like to see someone soak the car down with gas and burn it. Why not, it is his car, he can do what he likes with? As long as it has no insurance on it. Whoever did the work can go to hell. If the owner did not order the work done he owes nothing.

Well you are going to screw it up that is the whole idea. If you do it the way I said you will get to drive it until you are sick of it before you pawn it off or scrap it. As someone pointed out the novelty will wear off. Brace the hell out of the body and add an X member to the frame. Make sure the doors are all lined up and working perfect before you start. Then cut the roof. Make a piece of tubing to finish off the top of the windshield frame, a muffler shop can bend the tube, or put in a piece of hardwood and carve it to shape. Do not try to leave the wind wings, cut the top of the door right off. Add plexiglass wind wings to the windshield post if you like. Make a padded seat for the package deck, that is where the cheerleaders will sit. Have it upholstered in boat vinyl, that way it will not matter so much if it gets rained on. Also rubber floor mats. Get the upholsterer to make a tonneau cover to cover the passenger compartment in case of rain. Add a zipper so you can open just the driver's seat. Finally dress it up with a bright primary color paint job, whitewalls, fender skirts, continental kit or whatever strikes your fancy. The cheerleaders will be all over you lol.

Your local parts store should be able to get them in a couple of days.

Did you see this, should give you a little encouragement. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=29249

Aw... I was looking forward to a video of the block, upside down with the crankshaft out, and quick start in the cylinders, blowing the pistons 30 feet in the air.

I'm glad you asked before you picked up the Sawzall. This can be done but it is best to reinforce the body before you start cutting because it will have the strength and rigidity of a chocolate eclair once the roof is off. Welding up the back doors will do practically nothing for you. Besides this never looks right, the front doors by themselves look too short. Notice that 2 door cars have longer doors. The body will need to be strengthened under the rocker panels, or behind the rocker panels first. I have done this by making a piece of 1 1/2" square tubing with brackets, that bolted to the body and floor behind the rocker panel. If you can build it into the rocker panel so much the better, but that would be if you are replacing the rockers due to rust. Then the door posts need to be reinforced. Look at the door posts on an old 4 door hardtop. They are shaped like a tree root. The best way to do this is with a piece of round tube, bent to shape, trimmed to fit and welded to the floor and to the door post. It should also tie into the support you added under the floor. If you can add an X member to the frame, so much the better. You will also need to reinforce the cowl to prevent the dreaded cowl shake. It all depends what you want to do. If you plan to build a parade car for cheerleaders and local dignitaries to ride in, at 5 MPH on the Fourth of July that is one thing. To make a completely usable 4 door convertible is quite another. Give us more ideas of what you want and will have more to say.

I know a man who collects scrap. He told me he has a DeSoto hemi V8 he wants to sell. Have not seen it yet and do not know the year, model, condition or completeness. Does anyone have any idea how to determine the value? I know it would be worth approx $50 for scrap iron and figure $200 and up for a complete engine. What do you think it would be worth? I have to have some idea before I see it because he will expect some kind of offer when I first go and see it.

I got mine from the local auto parts store but that was 10 years ago.

The gen field coils have to be magnetic to work, normally there is enough residual magnetism to get them going then the regulator kicks in, but if the gen is taken apart or if it sits around for years it can lose its charge. From the official repair manual Polarizing the generator Do not polarize the generator by holding the circuit breaker points closed. This may result in burnt contacts Use a jumper from the starting switch, battery connection to the "A" terminal of the generator. Generator should always be polarized before running on car or bench. In other words connect a wire for a few seconds, from the battery - to the A terminal on the generator.

I bet he has similar experiences or worse every car he works on. He owns lots of cars that parts are not available for at all, they have to be made or the old worn out one repaired. The difference is he can afford to hire someone or buy what he needs.

I only have a car reference handy but it says the 1AT distributor was used on 1950 to 53 Dodge six. 1AT-4003 for 1950. IAT 4011 51-53 So it appears your distributor is off a 1950 or thereabouts. If you go to buy points, cap, rotor or condenser ask for parts for a 1950 Dodge and they should be the right ones.