HughForrest

Looks good. Is the mat flat, or contoured over the tranny tunnel/shifter area?

Be sure and post a pic of the mat when you get it. I was thinking of getting one for my '59.

This one is a bit different that the others pictured, but I believe it is also a Mopar bracket. If anyone wants it, it is yours for the cost of shipping. The mirror itself needs re-silver or replaced.

My local glass shop that works on oddball old stuff suggested using tiny flathead screws to hold the sweeper to the door. I found the factory style clips very hard to use, so I followed their advice. As long as the screw head is small enough to burrow below the surface of the whiskers of the sweeper (so as not to scratch the glass) it is a quick & easy way to install it.

These folks http://www.mykmlifestyle.com/1938_Chrysler_Fuel_Sender.html are the licensee of Atwater Kent which made them Oem back in the day. I bought one from them and am happy with it.

? the tag line on the Royal Enfield coozy: "Untainted by Technology" Seems a little newer that the rest of that stuff, but I like it anyway.

Leaving aside the openable rear window- 'cause I don't have that- is there drainage for the mini-trough that the edge of the rumble lid closes into? I couldn't think of a way to weatherstrip around the rumble lid that won't leak.

Check your P.M.s

Think small:

I'll see your Nicson intake, and raise you an unused, "You've never seen one before" Nicson screw-in temperature gauge:

Thanks Andy, that's kind of you. If anything those pics look better than real life! Except for the dash paint & running boards it all looks pretty stock on the outside. The seat still has the original upholstery afaik.

Been a running & driving machine a couple/few years now.☺️

In my '38 Chrysler (I think a bit less room under the hood than your car) I put a 383/727. It is a tight squeeze. No inner fenders, Cavalier rack, relocated shocks, remote oil filter, and disc brakes with the master on the firewall. I didn't have to alter the firewall or core support, but I notched the front cross member to allow the engine to sit lower. With the extra width a 440 wouldn't have fit with the hood sides on.

I'm thinking you could try Clester's for that: https://clestersauto.com/page/dodge-trucks/

X2 on Clesters. I was happy with the product, price, and service.

Greg is right about just exchanging with George if he has the carbs you need on hand (which he probably does). Linkage wouldn't be hard to do yourself, but again he probably has all the little bits right on his workbench. You'll be scratching your head and chasing parts around. I don't know what George charges anymore, but I'll bet it is worth it to just get it from him. I didn't need any spacers with my Edmunds intake so I can't speak to that. I suspect the headers add more coolness and bragging rights than horsepower.

I run an Edmunds head- milled, but I don't know how much. Just enough to get it flat- with the stock cam, tube headers, and Edmunds dual intake. I had my Carter B&B carbs re-jetted by George Asche and the whole setup works great together. I think without re-jetting it would run kind of rich.

Mar-K has most of the info you probably want here: http://www.mar-k.com/_assets/images/instructions/dodgeshortbedidentification.pdf Just re-read. You're not talking short bed. Nevermind...

I just did the wood & bed install. I put a low-side bed ('51) on a town wagon chassis, so it is a bit of a mongrel, but I'm just over the hill in Santa Cruz if you want to have a look.

How about a set of this style in the 16x4.5 size? They're available...

I just did the windows on my truck with proper glass setting tape and it went together nicely, but the guy who sold me the tape at the old-school glass shop said sometimes he'll use a couple of dots of weatherstrip adhesive on the tape. Said if the fit is a bit sloppy because one thickness of tape is too thin and doesn't grip, and the next thicker is too fat, he uses the thinner tape+ w/s adhesive.

As long as it is the right bolt pattern I think you'd be OK. Check out this thread from the HAMB: https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/motor-mopar-thermostat-housings.658266/

I'm using one in the upper radiator hose kinda like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-72065/overview/

Thanks guys- Much to my surprise, with the bed mocked up the rear wheel is nicely centered (front-to-back) in the fender. The P.O. who started the project must have been planning on this bed length. The rear end is a little wide though, so it will require either skinny wheels or a bit of positive offset to keep the wheels inside the fenders Merle, that photo was taken by the previous owner and that townie body you see was originally going to go on the chassis that is under my truck now. He changed directions and built a new chassis to accommodate a big Cummins, and sold me this one. AFAIK that townie is still being finished, but it's not mine. On the other hand, whilst doing this project I've accumulated a lot of body parts I won't be needing that fit the '59/'60 style pickups as well as the '59 and newer Townies, so if there is anything anybody needs...If I have it extra it'll be cheap. I don't have good pics, but here's another couple of the chassis:

I've got an unusual situation in that I have a '59 cab on a Town Panel (maybe '63) frame, to which I'm attaching a '51 low side bed. I'm obviously not concerned with factory correct, but I am interested in how the factory did things as a starting place for my own efforts. I've looked over many bed-related threads, but haven't found any pictures or much description of how the factory attached bed to frame. Was the bed really just held down with 4 (or 6) bolts to the cross sills? Also, at the rear of the truck does the last bed cross sill sit directly on the frame rail, or does the frame rail end short of the sill? My frame is too long because it's off a townie so I need to decide where to cut it. I appreciate any suggestions.