HughForrest

5/16" should be available cheap & easy at your local bicycle shop. The old "Ashtabula" 1-piece bottom brackets (Think 70's and earlier bikes of many kinds, and super-cheap modern bikes) use them. I sell them for by the each at my bike shop.

I was at the Pick n Pull yard at Moss landing yesterday and saw a '54 New Yorker there. Unusual for them to have anything that old. The interior and rear fenders were gone, but much of the trim and the (I'm guessing) hard-to-find curved rear glass were still there as well as some pretty good front fenders and a lot of other stuff. Just an FYI for the bay area guys.

Limeworks Speed shop also makes a horn conversion widget like the one your buddy whipped up. http://www.limeworkspeedshop.com/index.html I used theirs when I did my R&P install. Also, there are ways of dialing back the pressure from the pump to reduce the twitchy-ness.

Better Google Bumper Boyz first. Many horror stories.

My swap list says the big block is actually 1/2" shorter at 29" than a small block at 29.5". This is as measured from w/p pulley to rear mounting surface. The 440/400 equipped trucks used a center dump exhaust manifold. It interchangeable left to right if you don't care about the heat riser. I've been looking into this because I have a 383 at the machine shop that will go into my '38 Chrysler this next winter.

Don, that looks like an RV replacement shock. Might be set up internally for a much heavier vehicle. I used a shock that was originally intended for a Chevy full-size pickup. I might also have a set of Pro Shocks to sell if you still need some.

Local to me! When/where is it exactly?

That is/was my post on the HAMB. I'm no engineer, and while I've had no problem with the 2 cars on which I did it that way, knowing what I do now I'd probably make the shock mounts a little thinner and use 2 per side with a space for the shock in between so they would be in what I think is called "Double shear". Kinda like Pete & Jake's #1089 or #1081:

Rik- the guy who put up that site- is the human encyclopedia of customs. I'm supposed to meet him to hand off a photo for a buddy of his at the GNRS in a couple of weeks.

George Aasche supplied me with 2 re-jetted original style Carters for my dual setup. It has been a few years and they still run flawlessly. I have a core carb or 2 for you if you find yourself in Santa Cruz.

If a bit of brake fluid leaked on a brake lining the car will pull to the opposite side. The lining that got brake fluid on it gets no grip at all.

Tape or tie the new wire to the end of the old one, then use the old one to pull the new one through. Can't help you on the gauge: I run 12 volts...

Also don't tighten the screws that hold the horn button/ring from the back of the hub very much at all.

I put the Fatman R&P, as well as Charlie's disc kit, and home-made shock relocation and beefed-up front anti-sway bar on my '38 Chrysler. The shock relocation did require some creativity because the stock lower mount wasn't where it needed to be, but the same was true when it came to mounting the modern-style sway links to the lower control arms, so those problems got handled together. The R&P went in with no problems and no bump steer as long as you read the slightly unclear directions many times, measured 3 times, and scratched your head a lot. I would advise anyone who does this not to use the "Sport" ie. fast ratio Cavalier rack. The standard ratio one would be plenty fast, and I've been told that it has a slightly longer throw too. Iirc Nissan 510 tierod ends are used on Fatman-supplied adapters. I'm sure I still have the instructions if anyone needs the exact info.. Also, the GM canned ham style PS pump I used supplies more pressure than is desirable (at least on my car), so an adjustable PS valve should be plumbed in. At risk of drawing wrath, my car came to me with a sbc already installed (I plan to replace it with a 360...) on mounts modified from something like this:

I'll come from Santa Cruz if it's within 2-3 hours drive (and I have the day off...)

I have a feeling you are not one of those guys who gets bored and retirement and longs for the good 'ol days at work... Its a milestone: Congrats!

I posted this a while ago, and it is more suitable for the older cars, but since we're discussing customized mirrors ... I got 60's era VW Bug mirrors (still available new) that mount on top of a special threaded hinge pin. Then I cut the top off the VW hinge pin and welded it on my Mopar hinge pin and ended up with nice mirrors where I'd been unable to mount anything before without drilling holes. They make a round mirror, but I went with the pear shaped one.

Fender skirt rubber is for between your skirts and your (rear) fenders. It is shaped to fit the edge of the skirt.

Not the same plates, but this guy is a sill plate specialist and I'll bet he can do it: Door Sills- Donald Kuehn 81 Graham Avenue North Haledon, NJ 07508 973-423-1196 973-904-0433 Here are the ones he did for me- they are perfect:

I worry about that sometimes with my '38 Chrysler as well. If I'm at an overnight show I've been throwing a cover over the whole car and hoping for the best.

I had a local metal fab shop make one for me. The cost was only $150 or so, and I designed it so it uses modern-style sway links and bushings. It is attached to tabs I put on my lower A-arms.The whole project was surprisingly easy.

I have the Cavalier rack in my '38 Chrysler and I'd say it definitely has a bigger turning radius now than it did stock. Of course it also is much easier to drive in every other way. I used the "Quick steer" or "Sport" version of the rack,. I've heard, but not verified, that the standard version somehow allows a tighter turning radius.

The other 2 cars that seller has sold both earned him bad feedback...

I did the R&P in my '38 Chrysler and am very happy with it. When you go to purchase the rack do not get the sport/quick steer version though. The steering column mod is easy: cut off the "Mast Jacket" (the outer tube) just a couple inches south of the firewall, and cut the shaft inside about 3" longer than that. A $4 flanged bearing with the correct 3/4" I.D. and O.d. which I forget, but was maybe 1.5" is available at any good hardware store. Weld (be quick about it so you don't melt all the grease out) or clamp the bearing into the end of the jacket, and put a split collar (also from the hardware store) on the shaft up snug against the bearing you just installed. Done. If you want to maintain horn function you can get a widget from Lineworks Speed Shop for this purpose:http://limeworkspeedshop.com I don't see it on their web page, so call and ask. I got one from them and it works fine. Not a great photo, but look down below the brake booster: [/img]

For fans of cut-and-weld: