HughForrest

Here you go- shock mount template on the 1st post: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215548

Mine is a Stilko and no where near that expensive. Mosey over to bobistheoilguy.com where there is much discussion about bypass filters in general, and tp-element filters (Frantz, Stilko, Motor Guard, and others) in particular. They are as passionate there about oil as we here are about old Mopars.

I'm 4woody over on the HAMB. I wanted to drop the 383 as low in the frame as I could, so I cut & boxed my front crossmember to make room for the crank pulley & belt. This made the lower plumbing for the water pump & radiator a big PITA, and as said above I had to relocate the oil filter. In retrospect I'm not 100% sure it was worth it, but it did get the engine down low. BTW I used Dodge truck engine mounts & insulators on the engine, and generic sbc mounts widened about 1/4" to fit between the ears of the truck mounts, on the frame; (the L bracket in the pic is just retaining some hoses- has nothing to do with the motor mount):

The old TP-based filters (Stilko, Frantz) are supposed to filter extremely fine. I went with a finned Stilko 'cause it looked nice with the rest of my engine. With it mounted high filter changes are easy, and -given the medium- cheap! Factory "How-To" for our cars: On my '50:

My parts book says 4 door, and both styles of coupe all use the same, but it says nothing about the wagon.

I installed a Cavalier rack on my original '38 Chrysler IFS & frame- no clip replacement was done. I put in a slightly thicker sway bar, lower springs, & disc brakes at the same time as the R&P. While you wouldn't mistake the driving feel for a modern car, it is plenty satisfactory in a crowded freeway situation at speed, as well as getting in and out of parking spaces at low speeds. The only downside has been an increase in turning radius (but I'm working on that...) If I wanted more modern handling on my '50 wagon I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. IMO a clip is just not necessary. Depends on what result you're looking for. If you are an accomplished DIY'er you could do the Fatman (or Rusty Hope, I assume) R&P install in a long weekend. Doing the clip would be a lot more complicated.

OK- Got it. Charlie responded as soon as his email was back up. The issue was all mine: When ordering parts I did not use Napa numbers Charlie provides, but ordered by application. Somehow I ordered Volare inner bearings (to go with the rotors & outer bearings I suppose) and not the Camaro application specified. DOH!!

Tim- Thanks, I'll re-send.

I'm installing Charlie's kit on my '50 Plymouth. I'd just ask him my questions- in fact we were corresponding on this a couple of days ago-, but he seems to be having a problem with his web site and the @rustyhope.com email isn't working right now. This is not a gripe about Charlie or his product in any way. I'm sure he'll be back up and running shortly; but today is my day off and I'm hoping to figure this out so I'm asking the group for any advice you might have. My first email to him: When I put on the bearing adapters they were rattling around on the axle stubs. I know you suggested peening the stub, but I shimmed with a strip of an aluminum soda can all the way around the circumference. Soda cans are about .004", so I effectively added ~ .008 to the diameter of the stub. The spacer sits better now, but is still removable with my fingers only. When I installed the rotor I had trouble getting an adjustment I liked. When the rotor turns freely I can grab it at 6 and 12 o'clock and it'll wiggle (This is with just the rotor mounted, no rims or tires). Tighten the nut by 1 more flat (1/6 of a turn) and the wiggle is gone and it turns, but with some noticeable resistance. Do you think the spacer is still too loose on the stub? When properly adjusted should I be able to wiggle the rotor at all? I don't remember having any problem with this when I did my '38, so any suggestions are appreciated. Hugh His response: Are you trying to turn it at the tighter position with dry bearings? That may be part of the resistance. The aluminum shim may be the source of the play if you have it installed under the bearing also. Can you install a steel shim or peen the spindle? If the wiggle is happening with no shim under the bearing you may have a worn spindle. Check to see if both spindles have this issue. Can you adjust the tightness somewhere between wiggle and resistance and get the pin installed? I have seen it where a very slight change in tension on the nut made all the difference. Give it some thought, check and let me know please. My latest (this is the email that bounced last night): Charlie- The bearings are greased. I switched to a different shim and got the spacers to fit a little snugger (though I can still remove them with my fingers). The shim does not touch the bearing. In fact the Timken "Set 17" bearing i.d. is 1 3/8", but the axle stub o.d. is 1 1/4". Could this be part of the problem? Just intuitively it seems like the I.D. of the bearing should match the o.d. of the stub. Maybe I have a technique problem: I do the adjustment by tightening the nut whilst rotating the rotor till it is a little too tight- lots of resistance. Then I back the nut all the way off - not even touching the tooth washer. Then tighten it against the tooth washer as tight as I can with fingers only. That's how my book says to do it, but if I adjust it as above and grab the rotor at 12 o'clock and pull back & forth I can feel it wiggle, and if I get a flash light and look behind the rotor while spinning it, I can see the spacer spin on the stub. If I use a wrench and tighten the nut by 1 more flat the wiggle goes away and the spacer stops spinning. The rotor turns smoothly and without tight spots, but has noticeable resistance. More resistance than I would have thought. If you tried to spin it like a roulette wheel it wouldn't turn any more the moment you took your hand off it; even with giving is a strong shove. Maybe my expectations for how it should spin are wrong...I work on bicycles all day. I know it isn't supposed to be like that, but how easily should it spin? Sorry to be the problem child. Hugh

If anyone is interested, I have a pair of the forged Moog X-style arms mentioned above for the '39 & '40 Dodge & Plymouth that I'd be willing to part with. (Moog # 762 & 763). I got them thinking they would work on my '38 Chrysler, but no such luck. They look like this:

I haven't really been gone, just busy; I've been lurking all along.... I've still got both cars. I guess I'm just not one of those guys who flits from car to car, and I'd have to get rid of one in order to get another. I just got disc conversion brackets from Charlie for the wagon and have that up on jackstands doing the install as we speak. Oh, and I took my name off the door after switching jobs. I can't remember if I've posted here about it, but the Chrysler now has big block (that's mopar 383) power in addition to the 4-wheel discs & power steering I'd done on it earlier. Here's the 383 before it went in:

I'm not sure how close Dodge and Chrysler were in '38, but I still have my Chrysler...

A while back someone posted a diagram showing the lengths of steering arms before/after maybe 1936. I neglected to save it, so could one of you kindly post a link? Thanks!

Yes it is. Here's a video of the basic process: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zIBiG_u0_wA They can do woodgrain, camo, carbon fiber, minerals, and about a zillion other looks nowadays. And that is multiplied by all the painted basecoat colors underneath. I don't recall how much I paid, but I thought it reasonable at the time 7-8 years ago. The place that did mine is no longer in business anyway. It looks like there are even DIY materials available now that weren't available then. I might try doing my steering wheel.... It is always a big hit at car shows as people like it, but can't figure out what it is.

I forgot to put in the "Before" pic. Here's what it was like years ago when I got the car: ...and the picture makes it look better than it really looked...

I like my '38 gauges too much to change anything, but I always admired the bakelite dash in the slightly newer ('41,'42?) New Yorkers. I couldn't do the real thing, but "Hydro-Graphics" got me a satisfying (to me) look:

Guess it is all in the eye of the beholder. I think she's quite a looker.. But I like a car with a big butt.

I have a cast aluminum replacement grill for my '38 Chrysler (Original was chromed potmetal). It is an aftermarket replacement. Maybe they were sold to body shops trying to do a job on a budget?

Now that Roadking told me where to look I found it in my Chrysler book. For 1940 Chrysler the correct part number is the 885061, and it looks the same in my book as in Roadking's.

Andy- Unfortunately that page is as close as my book comes to answering your question. I believe some models/years had sort of "Mini Parts Books" with more model-specific exploded views of this kind of stuff though.

This might be a little late (I'm not around here much), but may be of use to some future Mopar archeologist:

It is a little o/t, but here is a cut-down '38 banjo with correct center & spokes:

Yes, please post a scan of the bracket template!

I got the sills for my '38 Chrysler from him. Beautiful work. Old: New:

In "Advanced" searches you can exclude specific sellers. By putting maybe a dozen of the most useless sellers there you can eliminate most co the chaff. Don't forget to save this as a "Favorite" search so you can search & add more bad sellers to it as you go along without re-typing anything.