Scruffy49

There is room, just, for a thin open end wrench to sneak in. I took the complete nose assembly off my 49 a couple weekends ago. If you are lucky the nut has not rusted away to round... Got sick of fighting mine and hit it with a small cut off wheel. Had to cut the lowest rear bolts as well. Stainless steel or marine grade bronze hardware when it goes back together.

Qu'est-ce que c'est ca? Too nice a car to ask in English...

Your patina pics are outdoors, where you'd expect them. Working vehicles in their natural environment. If I'm going to pony up the money for an indoor show, everything had better be indoor show caliber. No dirt, no rust, no primer, no grease/oil/fuel stains, flawless interiors... you know, museum grade. I like to see real working vehicles where they belong, outside. Be it an unrestored antique, a barn find, an old farm truck with an engine swap and lowered suspension... Trying to get at least one of the toys back together for the children's hospital thing this year. Probably one of the motorcycles or the VW, they need the least amount of work (battery and license tab in the VWs case). The trucks need so much it will be another 5 years before they're street legal again, let alone easy on the eyes...

Between the high costs of admission (spectator or show entry), stupid high concessions prices, even higher prices at the non-food vendors... and that absolutely horrifying so called "music" played at most car shows... we quit going years ago. To any shows other than tiny local for fun get togethers where 50s music and surf music are banned. And I STILL get in trouble at the shows, apparently Metallica and Iron Maiden are "not suitable musical genres" for car/bike shows... Whatever. The rugrats at the children's hospitals don't seem to care either way, the cars, trucks and bikes show up, their faces light up. THAT says more about the hobby than some silly trophy gathering dust in the attic...

Looks like a cross between an Edsel and a Checker cab... And what is with the rust bucket red truck in an indoor show? I know patina is "in" but, seriously, pay an admission fee to see somebody's fresh out of the field farm truck? I can do that without leaving my driveway, for free.

All my factory bits are intact, down to the spare tire. Not sure it has ever been out of the truck since it left the line... Will be pulling it soon for frame cleaning/painting and swapping in my WWW spare on a freshly painted rim. Will possibly need a set of hardware then, have to see what fails taking the original stuff apart. It's pretty common, we get the same thing on the Sweptline board. I ponied up to have dash plaques designed and then it went nowhere. All the folks who said they could have it cast or wanted one changed their minds. At least it was a very small upfront outlay for me. Now, if they have modern "wiggle buster" conversion shackles for the less than impressive stock style... If not, I'm going to design a set using modern urethane bushings and trailer type shackle plates. Helps to have a 20 years newer 4 corner leaf spring "pattern" 1/2 ton 2wd as the PH's "parking area pal"...

I need to save those for painting my 49. I just like the 2 tone look...

Painted mine with Testors 1103 red and a toothpick... Looks just about the same as a set of n.o.s. caps a friend has on the wall in his garage to keep his 49 Wayfarer company. One Shot also carries the "correct" shade of red. Apply to the stampings and then run a razor blade over the edges to remove any stray paint. Decals would have been a lot easier...

What rules? I don't remember last year's. Does knocking some of the grease-cow manure blend out of the spring hangers count?

If the flange to flange distance is close, and a 56 should be a big rear end, just swap the whole mess. That way you don't have to worry about it. You're in luck to a point, your truck and your donor should have normal u-joints, unlike the ball and trunion type in the earlier trucks.

The crank in the 57 Savoy engine has 8 holes, the flywheel only took 6 bolts. 230 that came with a 3 on the tree behind it. Have not pulled the 48 P15 218 from the 49 B1B to see what it has hole wise. Standard 3 speed top loader truck transmission behind it. The complete donor set up from the Savoy cost me $125. Gave away the bell, flywheel, clutch components, trans and 12v bits a couple weeks ago. And still think what I paid for the core 230 is fair. Get a donor engine, overhaul it on your bench, back porch, tarp covered picnic table, etc. Then get your friend to help you swap them over.

If everything else is good to go, yes. For a same era F1 or the GM equivalent you'd likely be adding a 1 in front of the 4 in that shape. At least where I live...

And not bother to set it right or be incapable of setting it right if your suspension deviates from stock ride height. I've got a couple lowriders and there isn't a tire shop in my part of Dixie that can set the front ends right.

Simple problem, simple solution. Buy it, pull the Ford running gear, swap siad gear with someone tired of fighting with hard to reach A and LA rear mount points fired frustration inducers. The A and LA small blocks are good little engines, but why Mopar had to follow the lead of the General Mistake Corporation (and the old Ford Y block) is beyond me. I catch a ton of flak on the Sweptline board because I'd rather have a 352-390 and a C6 than a 318/727... bad back and rear mount dizzy do not a good combination make...

In my world, priceless, it has been in the family since it was new and will be passed down to one of my nieces (the triplets are only 2 years old, I have some time). Real world? About 5 cents per pound if I junked it out. Which I won't. Resale? Not much, it doesn't run at the moment, needs pretty much everything cleaned up, refreshed or replaced, painted... Push come to shove I'd make a farm stand out of it. It isn't going away from the family.

Any peel and stick thin rubber or foam weatherstripping will work fine. Even the generic stuff from Lowes or Home Depot. Some stuff you just have to improvise on old Mopars.

3/4" drive breaker bar and a 6' pipe as a cheater. If you can drop the rear end out you can pickup tote it to any shop that does big rig tires. The impact gun they use will break it loose. 3/4" or 1" drive. Standard 1/2" drive impact guns have trouble with really old fasteners. I can't even get the head bolts loose on one of my L6 cores with mine.

Special order was pretty much always available. I know of at least 2 rhd Pilot House horse vans in Washington state, one is just up the road from my folks' house. A friend on the Sweptline board found a rhd 1962 D100 swb Utiline in Virginia. There are still thousands or rhd Cherokees, Scouts, and Subaru wagons floating around the USA. Mail carriers and rural newspaper carriers. Our back up mail carrier uses a rhd early 1990s Chevy 1500.

Lowbrow Customs motorcycle parts carries it by the foot. Braid covered spark plug wiring needs as well.

He'd burn up an 8.75" real quick too if he thought that. Ask me how I know... 3 days in the middle of nowhere (Tremonton Utah) after the rear bearings disintegrated in my 69 D100 while moving from WA to TN... I made sure the mechanic in Utah did it right. You only have to learn THAT lesson once...

Makes great smoker wood, that's all we use it for. Fireplaces are converted to natural gas. Had a lot of black heart rot, the "solid" trunk walls are all spalted. Ran an ad on CL for local artisans and such to come get the wood, couldn't give it away. I've got hardwood compost piles all over the place, slash pile burning is illegal in Shelby County and I'm not dragging all of it onto the 2.75 acres in Tipton County to burn it. Firewood isn't worth the fuel to cut it, seasoned ready to go hardwood is all of 30 bucks a cord here, IF you can find a city dweller that wants it. Country folk can get firewood for nothing all day long. Oh do have a 5' diameter sycamore that needs to go away and a friend with a blasting license on another forum I frequent... Here's the big one that a micro-burst or down draft ripped out of the ground... I'm 6'2" 240#... that is a branch behind me... 2nd largest/oldest white oak in a 3 or 4 county region according to the state forestry office several years ago.

Hit the floor pans with rust converter of choice, then a standard brush on primer. If you treat the metal before painting, standard rustoleum primer is fine. It's floor pans, they'll eventually be covered with a carpet or a mat anyway, right? The Krylon version works well too, as does Majick from Tractor Supply. Once the floors are fixed, reapply your brush on primer, let cure, top coat with whatever color brush on is on clearance. Since it will be covered afterwards, who cares what color the top coats are...

Supposed to be a "Motorcycles and Mopars" gathering at my place in September this year. 2 bike groups and 2 Mopar groups, but I'm waiting on the bike board that wants to put it together to nail down the dates. 54 acres, mostly shady. 2 acre fishing/swimming pond. Horseshoe pit, picnic area, fire ring is going in if it ever stops spitting snow and cold wind around here. Overhauling both fishing docks this spring. Lots of hotels within 15 miles or less. Old plantation 35-40 miles north east of downtown Memphis. We do have cotton mouth and copperhead pit vipers here though...

Harness should have come with a multiple application installation booklet. I know the one for my EZ-wire harness has install instructions for Ford, Chevy, and points/electronic Mopar. Ballast resistor? You didn't step up to an internally regulated coil yet? Cheap cheap cheap, tell NAPA you need an Echlin coil for a Super Beetle... IC64 or similar. Or $20 at Autozone for a Ford coil with internal resistor. The factory ceramic block with micro spring over asbestos rope is a joke. Although, I had no problems with mine in the 4 years I've run it, cheap one from Autozone. Probably wires in differently since I still run points.

About 35-40 miles north east of downtown Memphis. Have a couple that are pushing 100 years old. And are in the way. We can make available: white oak, pin oak, water oak, sweet gum, 4 species of elm, black and honey locusts, black walnut, 5 or 6 kinds of pine, pecan, hickory, persimmon, paw paw, sycamore, TN/VA cedar (moth ball/closet cedar), osage orange, lynden/basswood/tupelo, maybe a few other types. I'm on 54 acres of mixed pecan orchards, gardens and native timberland. A lot of the trees have serious burl in them or lots of curl. Had a 400 year old white oak full of burl and curl blow over in 2011. Unfortunately it is also full of lead and iron (minie balls, round balls and cannon balls). Old plantation. I cut, you haul or arrange shipping after the logs are harvested. No local sawmill will touch over 18-24 inch diameter.