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builtfercomfort

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Everything posted by builtfercomfort

  1. builtfercomfort
    I also have a 39 Chrysler and the same dash issue with bad plastic. It's simpler on the 39 than the 40, paint can cover the area. Plastic was about 1/16 thick so the chrome pieces are loose - built in rivits hold them on - so I was going to use superglue. You might also look at ASB plastic. It will mold with a heat gun and you might be able to make it work.
  2. builtfercomfort
    Go to an interstate truck stop and get yourself a big rig steering wheel cover. Weave / lash it on and call it done. Electrical tape will start to ooze its adhesive. Especially in heat.
  3. builtfercomfort
    Your fender looks quite repairable. If it's not full of hidden damage, it's probably easier to fix it than source a new one. What's wrong with it and the trunk?
  4. builtfercomfort
    What happens if you push up on the dash itself?
  5. builtfercomfort
    Looks good. Is that carriage bolt close to the other belt? If so ,it could hit the belt under high revs, so should be cut shorter like the other one. You can probably do it in-place with a saws-all.
  6. builtfercomfort
    Is the column squeaking inside the column holder? Or is the column holder itself the issue? Or is it further down toward your feet? My 39 Chrysler had something that looked like stiff paper as a gasket for the steering column clamp. If you have nothing there, try adding something like thin bicycle inner tube rubber. Also try loosening the clamp and take a short drive. That may help narrow the area.
  7. builtfercomfort
    If you could get the wiring sorted out it would be worth much more. Someone could drive it then. A wiring kit is under $200, but the time & hassle of installing it when your interior is done makes it time - consuming. Try eBay search of completed auctions of similar vehicles - remember Mopars cost less.
  8. builtfercomfort
    Looks good. What is the pump from? I'd suggest you leave a little adjustment in the pivoting arm as it's much easier to adjust for final tension than the up and down / two bolts method.
  9. builtfercomfort
    The front clip comes off as a whole with 12-14 bolts. Most people remove the front sheet metal for access. I vaguely remember an old thread where it's possible to leave the clip on but the front end has to be jacked up quite high to stop the transmission from hitting the ground during install.
  10. builtfercomfort
    Check out 1939 US Air Force markings too.
  11. builtfercomfort
    I've never had the switch trip by accident. When testing it I had to give the plastic box a good hard slap to get it to trip. I mean hard enough to hurt your hand, and worry about breaking the box mounting points. They came in ford trucks and see some rough duty.
  12. builtfercomfort
    Are you sure which glass is new vs old? I thought the laminated can be quite old too. Hopefully someone who knows will chime in.
  13. builtfercomfort
    Any news on this? I'm still in the planning stages, trying to decide if a rack/pinion swap or this method might be better to get me power steering. This seems simpler - no messing with steering arm length to get full turning radius. Rack swap may improve stock steering geometry though, and there are more examples to look at. Pondering...
  14. builtfercomfort
    I got an inertial switch from a Ford truck off eBay for $12. I put it inside a large outdoor-grade plastic electrical junction box in my trunk near my battery where I have the fuel pump relay and various connectors. If you give the box a hard slap it will trip. An oil pressure switch would work as well but this is less plumbing (would need a T on an oil sender) and less wiring (one less wire from motor to trunk).
  15. builtfercomfort
    Would a slightly larger metric size work? Drill/ tap- bolt and be done? Or is it not that simple?
  16. builtfercomfort
    Can you find a modern vehicle with the 5 x 5 pattern and disc brakes as a starting point? People are adapting Ford Explorer front discs to the p-15/d-24 cars so there might be a fairly easy way (?) using modern parts.
  17. builtfercomfort
    Looks like good progress. Hooray! Encouragement! I still think that visor is too big and should be straighter across the front. Right now the area of most shade is in the middle, not where the driver sits. And could you see a streetlight with that installed?
  18. builtfercomfort
    That Craigslist tip also works for free furniture-grade leather from the backs of leather couches.
  19. builtfercomfort
    I have helped make a double-groove pulley from two single- groove ones. Welded the two back-to-back and then cut out the dome part on one side, we had room to go back toward the water pump - weld the two stacked and cut off the outer dome if you want the new groove to the front. We used a drill press in lieu of a lathe to true it up, a little hillbilly but it worked.
  20. builtfercomfort
    Carlisle PA is probably the biggest collector meet in the country. See Hemmings Motor News website for dates. There are threads here you can search about Carlisle.
  21. builtfercomfort
    Ford 8.8 from Explorer works too and has same bolt pattern. Post 1997(?) have disc brakes. The Ranger Station site has a chart with door codes so you can see what axle came with the car so you don't have to pull the rear or hunt for a tag on the rear at the junkyard.
  22. builtfercomfort
    Depending on your schedule, etc. you may find better shopping on the us east coast? There are more people, cars, and ports on the east coast.
  23. builtfercomfort
    Can you move those new lights outside of the bumper guards? It might look better?
  24. builtfercomfort
    If you had started with those plates, made correctly - world that be enough to do it again much quicker (maybe with an additional locating hole for positioning off the original holes) ? Applauding your pioneering efforts while thinking of the next guy to try this.
  25. builtfercomfort
    Those plates are a good idea to help with proper locating of the holes in the frame too.
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