builtfercomfort

re: duct tape - I missed the exact application (brakes? Really?) but I've been doing an informal survey of duct tape. There are lots of imitators - 'duck' tape and the like, but name-brand duct tape from the heating and cooling section of the store is as good as ever, and there is 'racer tape' or '200 mph tape' that is even better. We actually live in the golden age of tapes.

Hi - the piece I'm talking about is a replacement receiver for the garage door opener. Since your receiver is 'compromised' by having another unknown transmitter nearby, you disable that receiver and get a new receiver, externally mounted (probably on the opener itself). The new receivers have a 'code' type transmitter, you need a digital code on the proper frequency (not just the proper frequency). Lots of options here: http://www.aclickawayremotes.com/category/Receivers/index-all.html

If you can disable the garage door receiver while keeping the opener working, you can buy an aftermarket receiver that hooks up to the wires for the inside-the-garage switch. They are only about $35 - Liftmaster makes one.

Here's a transmission jack adapter for a standard floor jack - about $50. There are times you need to support it from the bottom. http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,137.htm

One forum member had trouble where the machine shop did not properly clean out all the oil passages, even though the block was said to be hot-tanked. Apparently you may need to poke them with wire and soak in solvent to make sure they are clear.

I'm going to be getting OldDaddy's brakes too and have a similar question. Lots of options, which is best? I found a number of under-floor aftermarket MC with vacuum boosters - some in about the same position of the stock unit, some with what looks like a two-foot rod that would mount the thing further aft in the car (I think the application was 40s-early50s Chevrolet). The problem is with our 'x' frames, getting it to fit. From the pictures it looked promising (can't find the site now, RS something or other, big hot rod part place. 'Serious' I think was the brand name) There are also through-the-firewall kits and below-the-dash kits with the MC mounted sideways.

I've had some limited success with clear runny superglue. I cleaned out the ball area as best I could with solvent and slathered superglue in the whole ball area, held it in place with duct tape while it dried. Was okay, not great, not too strong so if I needed to reposition the mirror I'd just move it (breaking the superglue seal) and glue it again in the new position. I think clear silicone would probably be better, or something called 'Plumbers Goop' (a trade name) which is clear silicone that seems a little stronger and more flexible. Maybe there is some way of crimping the socket or knurling the ball?

Thanks Tim - Not sure what you mean by "LH" as in "I may change my steering rods yet to LH platform". (Left Hand? Leona Helmsley? :-) It's obviously a different make but which one? I found a '99 Explorer 8.8 rear end that is the right width, my choice of 3.73 or 4.10 ratio, so I'll have rear disc brakes. Not sure if I'll try to put the master cylinder in the engine compartment or under the floor. I'm engine agnostic but it seems like $300 for engine and AOD is cheap, a 90s Mopar smallblock and AOD seems to cost much more. Lots of Ford AODs going into early Mustangs so there are some retrofit kits for them. But if anyone has a small block + AOD for sale, let me know. I'm new to most of this, I'm in way over my head but that's part of the fun. Thanks for the advice. I'll ask more later :-)

Tim, it sounds like you have done almost exactly what I want to do to my (newly acquired) 39 Chrysler Windsor (my C-22 is a bit like the D-24 of later years). I like your ideas and builds, and want to try something like it. Do you have any in-progress pictures of your build(s)? I would like a V8, AC, PS, PB when I am done, would like to see how you fit yours in, what sort of issues you had, etc. I think my engine bay is narrower at the front - I have a chance to buy a 1987 Lincoln 302 + AOD (for $300) but I'm not sure the accessories will fit (my engine bay narrows at the front) - I'd like to see pictures of your V6 setup to see how it goes in. Also interested in your Cavalier rack install - did you buy the Fatman kit or roll your own? I'm thinking of getting OldDaddy's front brakes on the stock suspension, seems to be a simpler way to go. Thanks, -- Tom

'Billboards' - apologies to Joyce Carol Oates I think that I shall never see A Billboard lovely as a tree Indeed unless the billboards fall We'll never see a tree at all! 'The Billboard Song' As I was walking down the street one dark and dreary day, I came upon a billboard and much to my dismay, The words were torn and tattered, From the storm the night before, The wind and rain had done its work and this is how it goes, Smoke Coca-Cola cigarettes, chew Wrigleys Spearmint beer, Ken-L-Ration dog food makes your complexion clear, Simonize your baby in a Hershey candy bar, And Texaco's a beauty cream that's used by every star. Take your next vacation in a brand new Frigedaire, Learn to play the piano in your winter underwear, Doctors say that babies should smoke until they're three, And people over sixty-five should bathe in Lipton tea. Bay rum is good for horses; it is the best in town. Castoria cures the measles, if you pay ten dollars down. Teeth extracted without pain, a nickel or half a dime. Rolex Watch is selling cheap, a bit behind the times. Chew siding for that headache. Eat Campbells for that cough. There's going to be a swimming bee at the village watering trough. Buy a case of ginger-ale, it makes the best of broth. Shinola's good to curl the hair, it will not rub it off! So take your next vacation in a brand new Frigidaire Learn to play the piano in your winter underwear Doctors say that babies should smoke until they're three And people over 65 should bathe in Lipton Tea.

I read an old, true story about a guy on a runaway horse - near the end there was a line, "Since no one got hurt, it was funny." This has stuck with me over the years - when your car arrives safely (as we all hope) you can laugh at the troubles you had getting it. Good luck with your new 'baby'.

Can't answer your question (another newbie) but please take LOTS of pictures, of everything, even the seemingly trivial. Never know when one of those shots will help someone else. I'm considering something similar on a 39 Chrysler (coming later this month, need to check front end condition first). From an earlier post (and from memory) it's only about 12 bolts and the radiator/grill comes off with the front clip as a whole unit.

General advice: 1. Tuneup first - good spark is important 2. Try setting your carb leaner if possible, and advance the timing. 3. I once got an old smokey Corvair with a bad cylinder to pass CA smog, they tested the 'good' side not the 'bad' side of the flat-six engine. So if you've been thinking of splitting the exhaust, maybe now's the time? Like the others asked, what were your numbers - why did it fail?

Oil may have been washed off the bearings by the gas? Worth squirting some extra oil inside? Just guessing here, heard of the problem in other motors.

In an old 40 Chev. my Aunt once had, my dad went and bought two of the cheapest 12v battery cables from Pep Boys, and ran both in parallel (cut off the molded-on clamps, stripped the wire and clamped both wires into a new clamp on the battery). It was much cheaper than getting the correct 0 gauge cable, and a 10 min trip instead of mail order.

Not mine... he's asking $297 http://washingtondc.craigslist.org/nva/pts/317500852.html

In general, with an OD tranny at about .70 to 1 in high, a 3.55 or 3.73 would be pretty good for freeway cruising. You could go 4.10 if you want, a few hundred more RPM at 70 mph but better quarter-mile times.

But DON'T do it inside the garage and DO have a fire extinguisher handy! I've seen sparks fly from starters... not good near gas cans.

Someone (not me) took a Flattie and trans out of a '51 and is selling it on Ebay "NO RESERVE This is the Flat Head 6 and 3 Speed Transmission out of my 1951 Plymouth, It runs and shifts great and the clutch as works great." link is here http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Plymouth-Flat-Head-6-and-3-Speed-Transmission-Dodge_W0QQitemZ200099976056QQihZ010QQcategoryZ33615QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Link off the ebay page takes you to http://www.pacificautotronics.com/MOPAR There is a 'Royal' subdirectoy there http://www.pacificautotronics.com/MOPAR/Royal/ Someone is doing a rack-and-pinion swap for a Chrysler Royal. I have *lots* of questions about this since I'm buying a similar car (39 Royal Windsor) and thinking of doing a similar swap. The pics are dated Oct 06 - any idea how this project is going? From what I can tell the 39 Chrysler is just about the same as the 46 Dodge, frame-wise. So this is /almost/ on topic here :-)

This is from the HAMB vendor section. Reports seem to be good work, he's a little backed up right now. Never dealt with them myself. ======== I would like to announce a new division of Vintage Ignition, specializing in all American & foreign gauges. I will be offering a full line of services for any and all instruments including: -Rebuilding, repair & calibration of any gauge type & manufacturer -Silkscreening and re-facing of dials *custom artwork & colors *reverse color schemes *redline & mph scale alterations *custom decals -12 volt conversions -Quartz clock conversions -Bezel re-chroming -Lens re-finishing -Electronic tach & speedo upgrades -Electric conversions for fuel, temp, oil, amp & volt gauges -Amp to volt conversions -Electroluminecent gauge repair -Tube type temperature gauges -Pointers painted -Fuel senders rebuilt -Body tag restoration All work is 100% show quality and guaranteed. I will even put a 25 year warranty on all my quartz clock conversions!!! Please email me for more details or to send in gauges for a free evaluation and price quotation. Fair prices, quick turn around and HAMB alliance member discounts! I am happy to help! mmancini@vintageignition.com http://www.instrument-specialties.com/