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builtfercomfort

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Everything posted by builtfercomfort

  1. If you only have a month until state inspection what is on your top list of must-do's? (A visor?)
  2. What I'm suggesting is that it might fit, not that it will. If cheap, or you can return it, it's worth a try.
  3. The main dash sheet metal is all the same in 1939, I believe. Most of the trim differs by model.
  4. The anagram solver says Mogor the Ogre On To Evermore Remote, Oregon The Green Room But there are a few letters left over.
  5. Thanks! I'll be following closely - thanks also for the detailed explanations. If this works out like you hope it could pave the way for many followers.
  6. Not sure about your year, but I know in 1939 there was only one dash sheet metal piece made for Dodge, Chrysler, Plymouth, & DeSoto. Different trim and gauges of course. So if you can find any same-year Mopar trim to borrow or look at closely, you may find it will work.
  7. Will you have the same pitmann arm travel with the new box? What will it do to your turning radius?
  8. Running exhaust thru the holes in the x-member is pretty common, if that's what you're asking. Put a hanger nearby to keep the pipe centered in the hole so it doesn't rattle.
  9. If you could extend the ridges in the rear fender to the fender skirt I might like it even more. But maybe not. I have not seen flush- fit fender skirts for this era Mopar, they all seem to stand out a bit like yours so I don't know if it would look good or not.
  10. Julianos has some how-to's on their website. They sell the whole seatbelt kit with large washers etc
  11. From the look of the last pic, the front wheels are too far forward. Can you center them on the wheel well better?
  12. Please document the parts etc you use - power steering is in my long term plans and I'd like to know about more options.
  13. Better check the rest of that frame as well. That looks quite gone.
  14. Jegs sells a kit that will let you run a carb and distributor on a 5.9 magnum motor. There may be junkyard parts to do the same thing, not sure.
  15. How hard would it be to adjust or make oblong your bracket mounting holes to bring the caliper closer, then weld it up to make the holes the right size & in the perfect place? Getting worried about how much strength is being list from the calipers.
  16. Charlie is "olddaddy" here and the HAMB. Site is rustyhope.com. He makes a similar kit that takes Volare/Aspen brakes. They work fine with the earlier 16" wheels, others will need to report on 15" wheel clearance.
  17. Just think about where the firewall sits and where the radiator will fit with the new motor in place. Mock up the sheet metal for the Dodge front clip on the Jag front suspension and see where you are - where will the radiator etc. sit?
  18. Those are quite wide, right? If so, similar to a Mopar big-block swap. Fairly hard. You would need to replace a lot of the steering and such to get it to fit.
  19. Make sure the doors still close properly when you are done with your channel.
  20. Hooray for Sig! Try to get that motor running, or stamp out a new Dodge rocker cover for the Daimler motor and say it's always been there.
  21. R7 was also in the 39 Chrysler (and maybe later?) with column shift. I am not sure if that column shift is like later ones or not. I heard a rumor that you could swap the top of a 39 trans with a 38 trans top to get a floor shift but that's unconfirmed.
  22. Stock bolt pattern for the wheels should be 5 bolt on 4 1/2 inch centers - used by Mopar and Ford. Not the 4 3/4 inch centers used by GM.
  23. I thought the Silverdome was in Pontiac MI? Hosted a Super Bowl in Jan '82? It sold for a bit over a half mil. So you're in the money if you have one of those in the garage.
  24. On the HAMB, user 4woody put a 383 B motor in his. Stock suspension with a Cavalier rack & pinion for steering clearance. No way of keeping steering box and oil filter needed relocation. At least one car on this board has a Dakota front stub and a big block of some sort. That seemed to be an easier fit.
  25. I've seen a house roof penetration seal used too. I don't know the official name, it is the thing that keeps the various plumbing and vent pipes from leaking.
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