Tom Skinner

Marv, Your best bet will probably be ebay now. They have a lot of Stromberg stuff. Look also at Fluid Drive under Chrysler, DeSoto, etc. Try 1948 Chrysler, and 1948 DeSoto. I have seen the parts you are looking for on ebay under these headings. In addition you maybe able to snag an older parts carb on ebay to Frankenstein your carb back to life. Tom

The M5 That is Correct

Only Mopar, I have had these clocks for over 50 years in several 1948 Mopars. If you can get it within 3 - 5 minutes a week accurate - you will have arrived. If you do better than that you have perfected the repair/setting process. Presently mine stays about a minute a day behind. I go out driving once or twice a week in it so I have to set it forward a few minutes every time I go. Don't forget to set it back 1 Hour today! I took mine apart about 10 years ago and cleaned it and oiled it lightly. It is a rather tedious task but can be done by careful application. Great to hear that you did yours! Tom

docrock, It doesn't look like my M5 Fluid Drive, after additional pictures. I really don't know what you have there Tom

Looks like a M5 Fluid Drive Transmission Typical of the 1946 - 1948 Chrysler and DeSoto Automobiles. Is there one or two wires going to the Kickdown Switch (At the Top of The Tranny in the first Picture) Typically One Wire to the Kickdown was a M5. Two wires to the kickdown was a M6, Typically the M6 came Later in 1948 - 1953. I am not totally sure but I believe they would function alike. The second wire in the later M6 was just grounded to the Governor. Maybe someone with more knowledge can chime in here.

I run a Big Fan with the hood up for an hour after a ride takes away the stink.

You may need a longer Pipe LOL!

Tom, I made my Gauge with a 3/4" 16 Nut 3/8" Threaded Rod and Scrap Strapping. I used JB Weld to Fasten the Rod to the Nut (Welding is probably better but JB Weld Works too) Tom

My Gauge

Tom, When done - Bleed and Adjust. Re-Bleed and Adjust. You will have got it by thorough process of elimination. I used to just eyeball shoes on now I use my home made gage on my Spindals where the Castle nut screws on. My Gauge is similar to the one shown (Shown is Don's but is a good example) Tom

Tom S. One more idea Tom, The Cams can be released to narrow the shoes (In order to facilitate spring removal and installation). Also the Anchors may be turned to facilitate the drum fitting. I personally just used a wood rule (Grandpa's and his wrenches) to size it up before attempting to slide the Drum back over new shoes. If you have 11" Brakes a quick wood rule diagonal measurement check is all you need to get the drum on. I also just cleaned up my old Wheel Cylinder Pins and used them. Answering your question: Yes the Spring Loaded Cam Adjustments are the ones to use to increase clearance of the shoe to the drum. All other adjustments should adhere to your Service Manual Instructions. Especially Torque of all pertinent Bolts. Anchors 50 - 70 FT. LBS Etc., (Anchors) Arrows Pointing toward each other on Rear Brakes ETC. The Fronts the Arrows Point toward the adjacent Wheel Cylinders) With New Shoes you should refer to the Major Brake Adjustment Section and be certain to follow the instruction - as yours, and others, Lives depend upon it. Good Luck let us know how you did! Tom S. Huntersville, NC

Stop beating it with Hammers! I use a 1-1/4" Socket and a Long 1/2" Coaxing Bar (2-1/2 Feet Long). Right where the DOG Bone Fits on. Keep Stepping on it until it POPS. (Do Leave the Castle Nut on Loose)So the damn thing doesn't de-nut you or fly into the wall across the Garage Turn it little by little with your foot until BANG it gives way. Tom PS. In this way maybe you don't Monk up the Axle Ends, beating on it (The Dog Bone)with a Hammer. It is more reliable as to when it will POP my way

Joe, I wish we all could agree, but it is your call, your car, change the oil when you see fit. I have owned 1948 Chryslers for over 50 years, they like their oil changed every 1,000 - 2,000 miles. Why I don't know, they just turn it black and useless every 1 -2 K Miles. Maybe its because the Engine Block is Cast Iron or Whatever. I'm sure the environmental wonders will disagree, But with 50 Years experience I don't care what anyone has to say about it. Choose your system. Tom

GTFastbacker, I agree with Los Control above, the habit of doing spring/Winter settings at the carb and choke coincide with my oil changes etc., etc., Tom

Sam, Thank You! Andy wasn't there when I called, he would have told me that. I will call them tomorrow and tell his helper, also I will order new Wheel Cylinders for the front Brakes. Thanks again! Tom