Doug&Deb

Got my rebuilt engine in the Coronet today. That was more of a challenge than I expected. Fortunately my friend has experience with this and we got it done. I still have a days worth of work before I can start it. Maybe tomorrow. I’m looking forward to see how it performs. I ran it on a stand so I know it works.

Now I just have to figure out why the trans won’t budge. Everything is disconnected I think. 6 bolts ( actually 4 bolts and 2 studs). Am I missing something?

Awesome! Thanks. I’m in the garage now so I’ll try it.

Post war Dodge used electric wipers. That may be an option for you.

The instructions in the service manual for removing the transmission are straightforward except for the hand brake. The terminology between the parts diagram doesn’t match the instructions. Do I remove the entire hand brake assembly or just the cable? I should add this is the internal drum type on a Gyromatic transmission.

I guess I’ll just have to remove a couple head bolts and carefully re-torque after. I definitely have to angle this to get it in. The bell housing on fluid drive cars is longer than the standard trans.

It’s a tight fit but it will come out. Wiggle it lightly from side to side and it will come out. It probably hasn’t been off since it was new.

How do you connect the leveling bar to the engine? Mine requires removing 4 head bolts and I’d rather not do that. As far as leaving the trans connected that won’t work. If I was removing the front clip maybe. The bell housing is fairly long to accommodate the fluid coupling. This will definitely be a learning experience.

I’m ready to put my rebuilt engine in my 52 Coronet. I have to pull the other engine out and I’ve never done this before. I know the trans(M6) has to come out first . Any tips on the whole process would be appreciated. The shop manual explains the trans removal but I’m wondering about the clutch linkage. Do I need any special tools besides a trans jack and guide bolts? This is all new to me so help!

I too had a bad experience with Pertronix. Also if you have the semi auto gearbox you need a resistor or you will fry the module. That’s why mine started the car 3 times before it quit. They did refund my money promptly. They also recommended that I carry a spare module in the car. That’s not exactly a ringing endorsement of the product is it?

That’s awesome work! Those Bakelite pieces are pretty much unobtainable anymore. You could have a good side hustle in the Mopar community.

I’m definitely leaning towards the pump being the culprit but I need to drop the tank also. I have a leak somewhere on top but not from the sending unit. I’m planning on swapping engines soon and I don’t want this to continue to be a problem. The rebuild has a good mechanical pump so I want to check the tank and fix or replace if necessary. I appreciate all of the help. This forum keeps me half ways sane lol. In the meantime I’m going to drive it and hopefully the electric pump keeps it going.

DJK what you’re describing sounds like fuel percolation. That happens when you shut the car off for a short time and it’s hard to restart or it stalls after being restarted. To answer the other questions: my cap is vented and I don’t think the electric pump is causing any restriction. I’ve had it on the car for about 2 years now and this problem just started.

Heat shield is in place. I have a Stewart Warner temperature gauge because the original gauge doesn’t work. I’ve verified the temperature readings with my infrared thermometer. I have to get a fuel pressure gauge and try that. Otherwise I think my head will explode lol.

You’re probably right but what does the temperature have to do with it? I’m in southwest pa so the gas in the tank is a mixture of summer and winter blend. Today with cooler weather it ran perfectly. The engine temperature was the same just the outside temperature changed.

To follow up on my fuel of ignition problem. I decided to try a different coil thinking it may solve the problem. No joy. Shut down at about the same time as always. The electric pump got me home again. Today I let it warm up completely in the garage while I checked everything. Timing is good, dwell is 38 degrees. All connections between the gas tank to the carburetor are clean and tight with no leaks. Took a long ride and no problems at all. The only difference: Friday was 82 degrees and today is 45 degrees. Seems like vapor lock but I’ve driven in much hotter temperatures with no issues. I should add that there’s no smell of gas in the oil so I doubt it’s the fuel pump. I’m really confused.

I’ve not had problems like this before. We’re in the low 80’s and I’ve driven in much hotter temperatures. I do occasionally have fuel percolation on hot starts which is why I installed the electric pump. It’s driving me nuts because I can’t replicate the problem in the garage. Sam, what brand is your pump? That’s a clean setup you have.

I’m inclined to agree but why does it take a while to act up? Until it’s been at operating temperature for a while it runs fine. That’s what made me think coil. I’ll take a look at the mechanical pump. I’m too timid to go with only the electric pump. It’s a cheap Airtex and I’m not very trusting of the Chinese junk that’s available.

I’m going to start calling my car Damian. I think it’s possessed. I changed the coil to see what that would do and no luck. It completely shut off on me. I kicked on the electric pump and it fired right up and ran fine the rest of the way home. I’m changing engines soon so I’ll just drive it with the electric pump on all the time.

I’m beginning to suspect the coil since the problem only occurs after the engine has been at operating temperature for a while. It’s fairly new also but with quality being what it is lately who knows. I will try the other things suggested though.

I thought my problem was fuel related since turning on the electric pump seemed to help. Tonight that helped but not completely. When I got home I let it idle for a while and it seemed to occasionally cut out slightly. I’m starting to understand how Donald feels. This isn’t fun right now. By now I should be driving the wheels off and I’m leery of going anywhere in it. My diagnostic skills suck so I’m searching. Plugs and wires are very recent. Gap is correct and dwell is correct. All connections are clean and tight. Cap and rotor are also almost new as well as coil points and condenser. What am I missing. Also compression is 90 across the board. Not ideal for 13,000 miles on a rebuild but that’s another story.

I can still find them. The amount of places that sells them is shrinking. I used to find them at most auto parts stores and by several manufacturers. That’s changing in my area.

I had a 49 D24 like yours. Nice car! You’ll have fun with it. Don’t be afraid to ask questions. Lots of knowledge here.

I’m noticing it’s getting harder to find replacement oil filters for our flatheads. Advance auto can no longer get them and rock auto only has the wix 51070 available. If you have a source for filters I recommend getting a few extras.

For me it’s important that I not crack the carbon seal on the fluid coupling. Fortunately I work at a machine shop so we have plenty of bolts to modify.