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Doug&Deb

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Everything posted by Doug&Deb

  1. Doug&Deb
    Back then you were supposed to enter and exit your car curbside. That’s why the interior lights don’t come on when the drivers door opens. Makes sense from a safety standpoint.
  2. Doug&Deb
    Yes the M5 I think.
  3. Doug&Deb
    The Chrysler has the semi automatic transmission which I believe requires a different distributor than the standard transmission.
  4. Doug&Deb
    I’m not aware of anyone who has done this successfully sorry to say. If you figure it out please share how. This is a question that comes up frequently. The trans will up shift with no electrical with no problem. It’s the down shift part that requires the electrical part.
  5. Doug&Deb
    If you’re lucky your canister will have a drain plug for removing the oil. They apparently did away with that in 49. If I recall it’s a brass plug so don’t get carried away tightening it.
  6. Doug&Deb
    The filter element is available but I don’t remember the number. I’m thinking the Fram number is C134PL . Hopefully someone else will chime in.
  7. Doug&Deb
    There were two options. One was a sealed filter that was replaced as a unit and the other was what you have that has a replaceable element inside. It looks original to me.
  8. Doug&Deb

    Fuel line

    Doug&Deb replied to Doug&Deb's topic in P15-D24 Forum

    Bob I was wrong to call it a bubble flare. It resembles an umbrella from the side. The replacement tank I installed has the same fitting. Unless my original line had been over tightened and I’m overthinking this. I’m going to try a standard inverted flare fitting on the old tank and see how it fits.
  9. Doug&Deb

    Fuel line

    Doug&Deb replied to Doug&Deb's topic in P15-D24 Forum

    Thanks! I’ll look into it.
  10. Doug&Deb

    Fuel line

    Doug&Deb posted a topic in P15-D24 Forum

    I have a 52 Coronet. The fuel line attachment at the tank is a different kind of flare than standard. I believe it’s referred to as a bubble flare. Does anyone know of a tool that produces this? When I replaced the line I had to keep a stub of the original line coming out of the tank. This is a different setup than the ferrule that’s used on the earlier cars and it’s not an inverted flare either.
  11. Doug&Deb
    I agree. M6 because of the drum style e-brake.
  12. Doug&Deb
    That’s the one. Yes one timing cover bolt goes there. Don’t forget the small rubber pieces that go under that saddle. They usually come as o-rings with the oil pan gasket. You need to cut two pieces. You’ll see two grooves on the saddle.
  13. Doug&Deb
    Are you talking about the front piece that the oil pan seals on? If so yes one timing cover bolt goes into it.
  14. Doug&Deb
    Beautiful car! The Highlander interior adds to the style. What questions do you have?
  15. Doug&Deb
    Some of them have been known to seize no matter how well prepped they were. I don’t remember what the issue is. Mine has lasted about 4000 miles knock wood.
  16. Doug&Deb
    Keith’s Garage on YouTube. He’s a member of this forum and did a series on rebuilding a Plymouth flathead. I did my first one not long ago and if I can you can.
  17. Doug&Deb
    I haven’t tried that but I wonder if loosening the mount and jacking up the engine slightly would give enough clearance.
  18. Doug&Deb
    Are you talking about the heat riser assembly in the manifold? If so it depends on whether you drive in cold weather. It helps warm up the carb. Andy Bernbaums offers a rebuild kit for them if you decide to go that route. To answer your question though it also depends on whether it’s stuck open or closed. If it’s open and allows hot air to the base of the carb you could have problems in warm weather with fuel boiling.
  19. Doug&Deb
    Many of us have had problems with Pertronix so be aware of that. They’re not what they used to be.
  20. Doug&Deb
    Removing the head would be your best bet. Search the technical section for ways to remove the head bolts without breaking them. You should also find different methods for unsticking valves. You need more compression than that for it to run. Honestly stuck valves are normal for an engine that has sat.
  21. Doug&Deb
    Pull the plugs out. Turn the engine by hand with a finger over number one cylinder. When compression pushes your finger off that should be tdc. The rotor should be at the 7 o’clock position and that plug wire should be number one cylinder. That should be close enough to get the engine running then there are ways of tweaking the timing even without the mark.
  22. Doug&Deb
    Wow someone really messed with it. One option for the brakes and clutch would be an original master cylinder but I’m pretty sure they don’t come with the pivot pin. I may be wrong so check with the suppliers. For the rear axle either Ford or Jeep. Search the technical section of the forum as this subject has been discussed a good deal. You’ve got your work cut out for you but you’ll have a good looking car when it’s done.
  23. Doug&Deb
    I can’t tell by the picture. Is there a back seat? If not it’s a Wayfarer. 51 was the last year for the roadster.
  24. Doug&Deb
    Did you install the driveshaft in the same orientation as before? Before I remove mine I put witness marks front and rear so I put it on the same way.
  25. Doug&Deb
    Keith if I’m not mistaken I believe od equipped cars had a 4.11 rear.
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