Doug&Deb
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Everything posted by Doug&Deb
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New tank.
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Dave the pump contacts the cam differently. My engine is a 58 truck engine and the cam is a different part number. I’m not disagreeing with you. I’m just out of ideas here. The electric pump has a pre-filter that is crimped on. I also use an inline filter before that. I don’t think it’s restricted but it’s possible.
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Sam, I’m not ruling that out. Today I went back to the rubber line. It worked for a while then the car just died and wouldn’t restart. Eventually it started but wouldn’t idle. Because I have extra parts I tried another dizzy. No joy. Then I tried a different carb. No change. I was able to take it for a drive but I had to leave the electric pump on. I need to get underneath and look at the mechanical pump. That will be another day. With my back problems I strained it enough for today. Because I was using the wrong pump for the last year I’m wondering if I damaged the cam lobe.
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I replaced the 90 degree fitting with a new line but no improvement. I’m really getting frustrated with this. I’m going back to the rubber line and seeing how it works. If that doesn’t work then I have to look into ignition problems. I’m probably due for a tune up anyway but I’d rather not just throw parts at it hoping something works.
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Ivan I’ve heard that also. That’s why I think eliminating the 90 degree fitting will help.
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I’m sure that’s part of it. The 90 degree fitting keeps the line closer than it should be.
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Sniper that’s the next step. I don’t have a tool to make a 90 short enough to fit between the carb and heater box but a coworker has something that might work. I should add that the newer carb kits use a different needle and seat that is a 1/8-27 pipe size which requires an adapter for the inverted flare line. That is a restriction by itself let alone adding a 90 . Why Stromberg carbs have the inlet on the right instead of the front is a mystery to me.
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Full tank but you may be onto something with the timing. I don’t think the hill is too steep but yes it usually happens on the same one. More investigation is needed. No I haven’t put the rubber line back on. I’m still confused why the electric pump clears up the problem. I should add that I ran only the electric pump for a few months and never had a problem. I just don’t trust that to be the only fuel source.
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I was running a rubber line to the carb after I changed the fuel pump. I had been using the wrong pump. The problem never occurred until I made a new hard line. The problem is very random only happening when pulling a hill and even then it’s random. I know most fuel problems are ignition but what is causing it is beyond frustrating. I just checked the tuning with my analyzer and everything is in spec.
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I thought I had my fuel problem sorted but it acted up again yesterday. I finally got the correct pump and was running it with a rubber line between the pump and carb to make sure the pump was working properly. Once I made a new hard line that seemed to trigger the problem again. I’m pretty sure I know the answer but I’ll ask anyway. Because of the heater box and my inability to make a tight 90 degree bend at the carb end I installed a 90 degree fitting into the carb. Did I create the restriction? The car is a 52 Coronet by the way.
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Rich, I don’t have the number handy but I think it’s 4895. I sourced it from Vintage Power Wagons using the listing for a 58 D100 truck which is what my engine originally came from. I’m not sure about Hershey yet but we’ll definitely stop by if we go.
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For anyone who remembers my post about my fuel pump problem I just found out why it occurred. A quick background. I have a 58 truck engine in my 52 Coronet. I got the engine out of a 51 Coronet so it had the correct ancillary components to work correctly. The only thing missing was the fuel pump. I installed the AC588 I’ve always used and had problems for about a year. The solution was a different pump and the reason is that the camshaft is a different part number. I just wanted to inform others to save them from the aggravation I went through.
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At some point the pulley width changed and I’m not sure what year that was. I believe it will bolt on with no problem though.
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I always just push the panel in by hand and use needle nose pliers to insert the pin. It’s finicky but doable.
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I’m not aware of any mechanical issues with them. Just check for rot in the usual areas. I’ll have to get used to you having such a new-fangled car.
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Marty, did you say you can come to a stop before it’s down shifting then when you pull away it down shifts? Doesn’t it stall? Mine didn’t down shift at a stop before I rewired it but it would always stall. I’m not sure if cleaning the breaker points on the governor cover would help or not. You may have already done that.
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If all else fails call Bernbaums. I’ve found them to be very helpful any time I had a question.
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A temporary fix for the hood cables is picture hanging wire. It’s the right diameter and it’s strong enough. I used that when I had a D24.
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Marty, check the Imperial club website. They have a troubleshooting manual available for download. I had the same problem with mine and it ended up being bad wiring.
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Have you removed the residual valve from the master cylinder? I’m running a Scarebird kit on my Coronet with the original master cylinder. I removed the valve from the master cylinder and added two inline valves to the front and back. Two pounds to the front and ten pounds to the rear. I haven’t had any problems yet in close to 10,000 miles. Perhaps your master cylinder has finally failed from age. A rebuild may fix the problem.
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I’m planning on rewiring my 52 Coronet soon. Since much of the wiring runs through the roof area I’m wondering if it’s necessary to remove the headliner or can the wires be pulled one at a time. I’m not planning on buying a pre made harness because of cost. Also how do you get to the instrument cluster? There’s not much room.
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Dielectric grease and the felt washers should remedy the problem.
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Vince while you have things apart this is a good time to check inner and outer tie rod ends also.
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What PA said. You have to order by the distributor number because you never know whether a previous owner changed it over the years.
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Rebuild kits are available and it’s not a bad job. Removing it sucks unfortunately. The shaft goes from the box to the steering wheel. You have to get the front end high enough to pull the whole thing out from the bottom. Now would also be a good time to check all the tie rods. I’ve done this and I’m the worst mechanic I know lol.
