Ivan_B

I would recommend going over the brakes in the following fashion: 1) Lift one wheel of the ground, ask an assistant to floor the pedal hard then release. Try to rotate the wheel by hand, in both directions, is the wheel properly releasing? There should not be any resistance, the wheel should spin freely once you get it going. Try this several times, to make sure that the brakes do not grab while the pedal is released. 2) Repeat p. 1 with all four wheels individually, to find the bad wheel/wheels. 3) Properly bleed the brakes (all wheels, in the correct order). If the above does not help, take the bad wheel/wheels off, inspect the drum, shoes, check if you can compress the slave cylinder with pliers (etc.). Also, if you have self-adjusting cylinders installed in there, by chance, do not attempt the pliers trick, it will not work

And that's exactly how it is supposed to be, good job. You do not even need to use choke when the weather is warm For the adjustment screw, are you referring to the idle mixer screw or the throttle? Throttle - screw goes in, raises the throttle, idle gets higher. Mixture - can go either way, depending upon the conditions. If the screws are not responding, there could be something wrong with the carb assembly. I once had a carb where the DIY fix of the accelerator pump, by previous owner, prevented the throttle from closing all the way, so the idle screw was not responsive at all because the fuel was already going through the main jet circuit on idle. So, the engine does not have higher RPMs? Both, while in motion and on idle, or only in motion (under load)? Were higher RPMs fine before you fixed the carb? Does your throttle open all the way, when you push the gas pedal to the floor? Happened to me once ?

That's bad news, but that's the risk we take using old parts, etc.

Should not matter, you are probably not using so much fuel at once to empty the bowl, anyway. So, when the car dies, can you quickly pull the carb top to verify that there is gas in the carb? Once it dies, are you able to restart it? By itself or with starting fluid? If you have gas & air, move on to the ignition Also, is it cranking good when hot?

About the synchros: there is also a specified gap range between the syncho and the applicable gear it is sitting on. Make sure that yours is within specs. Some synchros must be grinded down at the base to sit properly, otherwise, the cone will not make the right friction

Did they use different bearing numbers back then? I was under impression that a 209 bearing was a 209 bearing for ever and ever ? I suppose I just haven't yet worked on an older piece of equipment where the bearing number engraved on the side was not available in today's catalog... What numbers do you have in your parts list book? Does Google give you any cross-reference specs?

Immersion water heater? ? Can we maybe get a better picture? Showing both ends of the line? Looks like an old fuel line.

Of course you can! An nothing is as good as the original part on an antique car. People who do proper restoration acid-clean and zinc-plate the original hardware, so that the car remains as much authentic as possible

Sorry, nope. The best I can do is to take the caps off and see if those are engraved on the side. Let's see if any of the guys have the parts catalogue

That's a long neck I just used to have an older-style screw-in dipstick gas tank, once, and it was really cool that you could take it out (from under the trunk carpet) and see how many gallons of fuel you've had left in there, this was in addition to the stock dash indicator. Now, I got my new Plymouth and drove it just a few miles. The tank shows full, but I am somewhat concerned. If I don't see any needle movement any time soon, I'll probably have to experiment with paint mixing sticks.

That's a good point. Too bad these tanks do not have the old fashioned dipstick to verify fuel level.

Sorry ? I mean, it's great to have a new original car, etc. But there could be serious problems the owner needs to know about. @War Dog What's the plan? Complete strip down and body restoration; mechanical repairs and rust treatment; or something else? I am just very sensitive when it comes to rust issues. All of this should be treated immediately to prevent further deterioration.

At least check the casing bearing seats for proper size/shape, with a micrometer; the same with the output shaft tip and the rear bearing seat. Also, carefully inspect the casing for small cracks, especially around the edges. New washers too The water inside was probably condensation and lack of use. This happens.

Sorry to hear that. Did you test it around the block, several times, before going on a trip? Take the fuel line off the carb and ask someone to crank the car (disconnect the coil so that it does not start on you. Do you get fuel coming out of the line?

Is this your spare box, or the one from the car? That input shaft and counter shaft are gone

How long has it been sitting in that yard? I see mold and the floors are probably gone ?

Probably a good idea. So, you've god a new car (or finally got around to working on an old one) and are trying to start it up? When all the parts are installed on the car, you have no\weak spark while the engine is cranking? If both coils produce the same results, it is possible that they are both bad, but the problem could be something else too.

I think these are too small to work with. If you've got to the point of deforming the heads and they would not move, using vice grips would just tear those heads off completely. I would cut and drill them out. Using heat would fry the rubber parts of the cylinder. If you do it now, rather than trying a lot of other useless things, you'll probably save yourself some time

Make sure to check the internal parts and the housing against the OEM specs, if you want it to last. Also, I am pretty sure that the transmission housing and the bell housing are matched to be parallel to the engine block.

No problem. You just need to make sure that the 3 wheels are assembled facing the proper way. You can usually tell what was touching what, by looking at the applicable contact marks on the adjacent parts. Based on the electrical diagram of my P10, the switch has 3 contacts and 4 wires going to it. The contact with 2 wires is the High beam output (one wire is going to the headlights another one to the in-dash indicator light). The other two contacts are a) main power input from the central light switch, and b) Low beam output. So, if you want to verify that your assembly is working correctly, you need to take a multi-meter and test for connectivity between the main power input contact and the two other contacts. Either one of them (and only one at a time) should be connected through, with the switch button in either position, that's it. You will have to snap the case together, for testing it, though. And, if you decide to get a new one, you can always find a used OEM replacement.

Are you talking about replacing the clutch bearing? I would just disconnect the drive shaft and pull the transmission back to get to it. And this is one of the ways to do this, since first and reverse are not synchronized. Second then first, and third than reverse You'll probably see that in most gear boxes, and especially the ones with non synchronized gears (like ours). I would not at all be concerned about that. He might see some gear teeth, or large fragments of copper washers/brass synchros, the sliding mechanism springs, balls (depending upon the design). Now, this is a sign of problem.

Are you thinking this is potentially not transmission? Could be useful to do some shifting while it is on the shop lift, even spinning the wheels by hand, to see what's going on underneath.

Is it a regular 3-speed? After the linkage, the next step would be to drain the oil, and remove the side cover to inspect the first gear and the transfer shaft. Do not drive it anymore. Also, check the drained oil for extra parts.

@greg g Thanks for the list, I might just as well check all of these while I am working on this. I've also seen an old thread on this forum, from like 2009, describing the same burning a pinhole in the line with the battery short... Mine also caught on fire, by the way, so I am probably the Darwin's award holder for now ?

Took the return line off and found the source of my leak. The return line has a burned pinhole in it, well, actually two pinholes. I've accidentally shorted the starter battery cable terminal to it, recently, and I am very ashamed for what I did ? It is interesting that I did not notice the hole right away, because I inspected the line after the above mentioned "accident". Also, I could swear it appeared to be dry to the touch, while there was oil everywhere below. Well, I now have to get a new line, and the car should be derivable again.