Ivan_B
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Everything posted by Ivan_B
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If you sell stuff, it is generally understood that you are expected to report it as part of your income, just as you would do with your regular W2s (for the working folks). Even if its cash. 😉
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Google tells me it's the fuzzy window molding\seal where the glass sits.
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The manual throttle cable is great, just like a gas tank dipstick 😉
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Probably not for long... Also, there are plenty of those that would not turn-over anymore 😅
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These are some good anecdotes 😉
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That is used for seasonal storage, as far as I know. I have a can and do fog the cylinders if I need to store the car with no use for a few month. Exactly that. Just don't loose anything 😂 Also, make sure that the whole thing is manageable, in case you are not around and someone else needs to move/use it.
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Oh, so you've got that fancy dual cylinder setup... 😅 Just do what ever it says in the manual. Also, you do not need a lift to do the brake adjustment. You can do do that just fine by using a jack, one wheel at a time.
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Most certainly. You can do a flush of the block without the car running or even the rest of the parts present. There are plenty of videos and recommendations about how to do that on the Tube, etc. I would be cautious about using the detergents, though. If you have not already done so, take out your valve coolant distribution tube and the block drain valve, at the bottom, to see how much sediment there actually is. If you can get rid of it with just a regular garden hose - just go for it 😀
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Are we talking like 10+ years of storage? I would fill the whole thing completely with engine oil (including the cylinders and the cooling system) and close tight all the openings. And definitely do not keep it outside. If you really want to go high-tech, consider vacuum storage (similar to what is done with guns) or a nitrogen-filled container.
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My 82 Virago 920 65hp, 523lbs, comes out at 8.04lbs per hp 🤭 I miss that bike... So, you've decided to give in and get a midlife crisis car?
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I would check for run-out on the highs of the cam. If the points are not opening, that probably indicates that either the rotor is wobbly or something else is messed-up 🤨
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I just checked my P10 manual, and it says exactly that: shift 1-2 at 10, and 2-3 at 20. I was shifting 2-3 mostly around 25, especially when going up the hill. Need to adjust my driving technique 😐
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Where would you use it? The most HP car I ever drove was maybe 200-250 tops. Unless you are planning to race it, seems completely useless... Don't be one of those older dudes rapidly accelerating from a stop light, in a red car, that's just silly 😅 BTW, do you have a motorcycle? Ever considered getting one? The HP/weight ratio is great on those. Could be a cheaper alternative if you want to feel the power.
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Just open up Craigslist or FB Marketplace, and look for all kinds of other things you could buy with that money. And then, do not buy anything. That usually helps me to stay calm 🤭
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The spray can paint came off because it was not gasoline-resistant. The point of sanding is to even-out the painted surface (when using a brush or a roller) and to get rid of the orange/cellulite effect after a spray You obviously need to gradually build-up a thick-enough layer of paint to do a proper sanding and polishing finish.
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Nothing a little wet-sanding can't fix 🙂 I used their marine paint (for UV additives) for a brush-on sand-down application, a couple of times, with very good results. Painted a motorcycle gas tank, this way, it even withstood gas spills quite well. A spray can stuff (that was there from the PO) came right off...
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I don't know... The car, kid of, looks great as is And the paint wear gives it some antique character, despite the fact that this is, essentially, a re-paint. I would probably just keep it like that, but its up to you. Probably should not be getting any rust if it was waxed, though... Have you also considered some rustproofing oil, to see how that looks?
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I bet they weren't arched, neither were the drums checked for proper condition... No one does these anymore... I am planning to do mine, as well, as soon as I manage to defeat my laziness to take the drums off The brakes work okay, as is, but I do have to press it a bit harder than I should in order to stop when rolling downhill.
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I never buff old paint, just use quick wax for UV protection. In case you can find the OEM-like paint in a regular can, you can just do the good-old paint and sand technique with a regular brush Also, do you have pictures of your hood, so that we know what you are dealing with?
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I concur with the above, something does not add-up. Try filling the master to specs, wipe it clean with alcohol or carb cleaner, and see what happens around the cap next time you notice the fluid loss.
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A good-looking P12 in Florida... I did not look at it, but the photos appear very promising https://jacksonville.craigslist.org/cto/d/jacksonville-classic-1941-plymouth/7806240323.html
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No it is not. Did you already attempt to bleed the brakes using a pressure bleeder, etc? If that does not help, you might want to rebuild your master and carefully inspect all of the slaves for signs of small leaks as well.
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How bad is this? Looks like seepage around the intake.
Ivan_B replied to 1949plymouthdeluxe's topic in P15-D24 Forum
+1 check the engine with a vacuum gauge. If the gauge does not show anything bad just forget about it. My intake looks very similar -
Here is my built card. I do not believe there is anything useful on it, though Oh my god, I chose liberal arts thinking that I'll never have to deal with math, again. And now, here we are... 😅 I'll take the cover off, and see what it looks like under there. I might even be able to pull a part number off a pressure plate, too 🤔
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FL is an all-year-round classic car season 😉 The old clutch is still working. I am just trying to stock-up on some wear and tear parts while they are still available. Good idea, I'll try that.
