DJ194950

Santa credit card came early! Looks very nice! Good thing your already into a rewire. Believe you'll love it soon if not already! DJ

Got some videos or tutorials to support your "Theory", Tim? DJ

When installing the crank and rods in my post, it requires the removal of the pistons, rods, timing chain and a few more. That means the engine Removed. Head off. Pan off. May as well get new main bearings as the new crank will most likely have been reground to diff. dimensions. Same for rod bearings but they are not Too expensive. I was saying, maybe the pistons and rings can be reused on the 230 rods.(=no rebore of the block). The timing chain and gears may be reusable. Check the block for rust buildup, along with the valve cooling tube condition after water pump removal. Turn motor over and look at valve seats and valve seating surfaces and on and on. ALL can save some bucks, But can you do it? Experience? A good straightedge on block and head. To check for flatness. A motor rebuild business that's cooperative will show you whats up if experienced in these motors, most are, but not all! Most usually recommend a total rebuild for them to offer any guarantee. Includes a block leveling shave, a head shave, replace all valve quides, and on and on including bore, new pistons and rings, reground crank, unless already done, new oil pump. $2500 and up.

Pull the plugs before tryiny Your method. Soak cylinder for several days before going forward. Best to try at the big crankshaft nut. Much easier on all parts.. It's possible water has seeped into cyl.(s). are hydraulically locked. using your method may only accomplish is broken parts! DJ

Even buying a can of canned spray paint read the directions before using. They Usually tell how to use their paint. BUT the directions are for temps. in the 70-75 degree range. Above about 85 degree just wait until it's cooler fit you want a decent job. Humidity also has a big effect in other parts of the country. (very dry mostly where PP lives.). Summer months and now most winter months! If buying a pint or more of automotive paint/primers, I always go to a paint store and talk to the sales persons. They talk to pro's constantly about the ins and outs of the products they sale. Also Always ask for a copy of the spec/application sheet/s they can easily get them online these days. Lots of info in these. Again most are tuned to 70-75 degree instructions. If it's warmer than that, ask the salesperson what to do. This is for any paint you have not used before. Even the cheap Harbor freight spray guns can do an adequate job with some practice. Save some big cardboard sections to adjust the gun setting and distance/air pressure at the gun. As Plymouthy said, read some tutorials online First! Love painting, hate the primer/prep steps! DJ

Kind of looks like a flathead ferd v-8 plug wires tube? DJ

One place you can check out- haganauto.com also sold thru speedway motors. Hagan has a section of how to do it. Others out there but don't remember their names. Never used one but have read several articles over the years, appears not too hard to do. DJ

My looking at parts books for 49 says the same as YoungEd, no ring at all on deluxe (button only) and a full ring for special deluxe = steer wheel and all horn parts are diff. between the models.The top inside edge of your wheel should have have 8 holes (per bad pic.) and a deluxe about four. Rest of steer wheel appears the same per same lousy pic.! Happy hunting, good luck. Doug

For pulling a trailer I'd think a stock 3.9 as in most models late 49's, is as low geared as I'd want to go, even with the Mopar R-10 OD trans. My 50 4 dr. will easily cruise at 70 with the 3.9. Not pulling a trailer. If going over a lot of big hills a 4.1 gear ratio would even work better pulling a trailer, but only with the OD. Changing a stock type 218 to a 230 requires the 230 crankshaft and rods to be installed. If the rest of the parts are in Good condition they can be reused to save some $$$, My 50 cents (inflation ya know!) DJ

Driving your "new" old car is addictive isn't it? Sure even more so for you after the years under "repair" !! Enjoy, Doug

I'd suggest a call to PayPal. This person may have a block on the acct. or something else happening! Do it NOW!

Just wondering Has anyone here ordered from the Ad as seem on this forum? Quality, delivery times, return policies? Could use a cheap (free) cook, maid, etc! DJ

oldmoparts.com same as- andy bernbaum lists arms and blades. Also some type of a adapter for wiper arm? style. Worth a call, Best, DJ

Thanks for the In/out OD op. answers. Seems mine is working backasswards! Original parts? Dealer installed parts? Like I said before I have no idea, or if I just screwed it up! Always seemed to me that that the cable in should = the OD in. Logical always works best, But many things do not work according to my logic! Planning to take my car out to a friends with a 2 post lift and will get it up and take a look again. Maybe a different set of eyes may see what's up! DJ

I guess WI. does not have a large feral pig problem as some other states do! DJ

1953 and 54 Cadillac rear pics, DJ 11953

1 Easy check, remove the cap and look for moisture/corrosion of cap,rotor,points. A moist cap allows the spark to go where the least resistance is. Usually the plug with No compression. DJ

Most cam mfg'ers now days use the duration at 0.050 as comparison they believe it be the best indicator of type, etc. Suggest trying a call to summitracing.com tech help line and/or compcams.com online or tech line. My good friend found both to be easy to talk to and informative about cam selection. Get some help from experienced people. Ask them about why the 0.50 spec is used. Good luck, DJ

Frank Thanks for posting the pics that I could not seem to. Could have easily skipped the Chev. headlights though! DJ

Like I said it appeared because of where an original bracket and arm where on the od when I bought it. Not sure if it could be mounted the opposite or not, seems per a old memory that the floor board would have been too close for it to go the opposite way. Had an OD the similar r-10 back in '68 in a 54 Ford. Worked OK after small amount of outside repair (governor weights) but don't remember if engaged was pull out or push in. Joe F. which way does yours work? DJ

Dodgeb4ya- Maybe the question is- On mine the OD handle is pulled out before the OD works. In = no OD or freewheeling. The bracketry show the the cable and arm made it work that way. I believe. Did not come in this car. Yours work the opposite? Is it an R-10 type? DJ

Really 1st. gear OD I useless. 1st. is so low that the OD may add 5mph. before time to shift to 2nd. The advantage of the toggle inline with the govenor ground is that when you want to drop out of OD, rather than having to put the throttle to the floor or push the OD handle in and letting off the gas you can just turn off the toggle and let off the gas= out of OD. Want OD again? flip the toggle to on and let off the throttle momentarily- Od will engage as long as you going more than the 26 mph. for the govenor to provide the ground to the relay. Yes to Joe F. on the trans question. The OD will pretty much freewheel when in OD and you let off the throttle until the throttle is again pushed. Has to do with the OD clutch cam and the rollers. When the engine rpms drop slowing down or no longer puttting a push against the drive line the rollers back down the ramps in the clutch and lose contact with the out put drum and output shaft until you accelerate again. If OD is locked out the clutch is locked out and plays no role. Direct drive thru the OD section. All this is only about an R-10 OD trans as I have no experience with the R-7. DJ

I guess 53 or 54 sedan de ville converted. DJ