martybose

As was mentioned in the other thread, GET SOME HEADLIGHT RELAYS!!!! I used to run 6V 60W halogen headlights. The first time I turned them on both the headlight switch and dimmer switch got really hot. I added a double relay setup (high/low beams) so that the headlight switch and the dimmer switch merely provided signal voltage to the relays. The lights were brighter and the switches were cool. Marty

I was diagnosed with early stage prostate cancer in early 2007. I did my own research and decided to go with radiation treatment instead of surgery. Just visited my urologist last week, and he said that everything seems fine, and the PSA test is very good. Two years and counting! Marty

I bought steering box insulators from him, received quickly in excellent condition. Marty

You can avoid a lot of issues by finding Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts. Not sure if this is still the right address/phone number; from a really old flier I have Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts 415 Court St. Clay Center, Kansas 67432 (913) 632-3450 They sell the universal mounts, the wide alternator pulleys, and something neat they call a DA plug. It plugs into a 1-wire GM alternator and connects to a switched DC source so that the alternator starts charging immediately. On my point ignition I connected it to the coil; my HEI didn't like that, so I connected it to the starter solenoid stud that normally goes to the bypass resistor. If the contact info is wrong you can also buy the DA plug from Speedway motors, part number 910-64100 for $17.99 each; they get it from Fifth Avenue. They call it an alternator wiring harness, which isn't really accurate. Marty

I'm running a Langdon HEI with the initial timing set at 4 degrees BTDC and the vacuum advance running off of manifold vacuum (so that the vacuum advance is reduced when I stand on the gas). Marty

The same is true for a Rhode Island harness. Marty

This weekend I removed the tiewrap from the HEI centrifugal advance weights and went for a ride. In 80 degree weather it did not heat up on the freeway the way it used to, so apparently the problem was jetting all along. I did detect the slightest amount of pinging once. I've got a richer pair of idle jets in my collection, but I think I'll wait until I driven it more before I richen it up again. Marty

I can do that on mine as long as the chokes are set; if I wait until it warms up and idles down, it lopes a bit at idle, and that would knock it off! Marty

That's a bummer; the Buell's were the only Harleys I really liked! Marty

I bought a 40 horse VW beetle for $100, put $30 worth of retreads on it, and drove it for 2 years. Had an oldtime VW mechanic who told me that the heads were cracked, but just ignore them and drive it! Sold it for $100 again. Marty

You should measure the center to center distance where the U-bolts go through the lower plate; that usually is as critical as the inside radius where the axle tubes are. Marty

Well, if memory serves my 230 bored .072" over stock comes out at 237 cubic inches, so I would guess that a 265 .040" over would be around 269 ci, give or take ..... Marty

Quite true. Interestingly, when a battery is working they are better off being warm. I learned that while running a Telco switch facility, because the electronics were kept at about 60 degrees, but the battery room was air-conditioned to about 85 degrees. It made for an interesting shock to the old body when you opened the door to go into or out of the battery room. Marty

Thought I'd post an update on this. I stocked up on some idle and air corrector jets, and started experimenting. I wound up with a 070 primary idle jet (one step richer than originally installed 065), and that seems to have completely eliminated the part-throttle pinging I was hearing. The primary air corrector jetting was interesting. My two carbs weren't matched originally, one having a 150 and the other having 155. I started out with a pair of 155's, which is the leaner of the 2 sizes. It ran fine, but didn't seem to pull as well. So I switched to the pair of 150's, and it feels much better. So the bottom line is that I'm now running a richer primary idle jet, which affects the bottom end primary-only running, and I'm running a slightly richer primary air corrector jet package, which affects the top-end of the primary only running until the progressive linkage starts to open up the secondaries. I haven't changed anything in the secondary jetting. Now I'm starting to wonder if the heating up at freeway cruising speed and the detonation heard as it was starting to heat up were really indications of the primaries being too lean and not issues of too much ignition advance. So my next step will be to remove the tiewrap that is currently locking the centrifugal advance on my HEI and see what happens next. Keep in mind that I am running an overbored 230 running 9 to 1 compression with 91 octane gas, cleaned up ports, Edmunds intake manifold and head, a mildly upgraded cam, an HEI ignition system and cast iron headers into a low restriction dual exhaust. The changes I have made may not be appropriate or necessary for a more stock engine. Marty

I found a body brace at the lower right corner of the firewall that had enough space between it and the angled passenger floor to sneak in the same tank as Don's (except for color) by turning it sideways. It's practically invisible, and works fine. Marty

I don't like Grumpy for describing Don. Feisty maybe, but not grumpy! Marty

I'm a little surprised, because when I bought mine from him he had 1-1/2", 3", and 4". Maybe he sold them all; I guess there isn't that much demand for the narrow blocks. Marty

As Greg noted, the head is a vintage Edmunds, as is the intake manifold. The carbs are Carter Webers, purchased from Langdon. I made my own throttle linkage to use the OEM bellcrank instead of going cable operated. The air cleaner is an Obrian (sp?) Trucking unit. It's actually just the top section of an air cleaner, you have to make your own bottom section. Marty

Here's mine! Marty

Some of the wheel companies (Stockton Wheel comes to mind) can take a stock center and put a new rim on it, and sometimes they can take a 15" rim center and put a 16" rim on it. More legwork advised! Marty

You found the right website, Firm Feel has been the expert on upgrading later Mopar steering boxes for a lot of years. Marty

While my version has some other advantages that I like, I'll admit that if Richie's modification had been documented earlier I probably would have gone that route. Marty

It seems to work well, and definitely removes any concern about losing coolant. The downside is that it will find places to leak out of that antifreeze never did. I'm still using it, but it took me a long time to seal up all of the leaks, and it still oozes a little around the thermostat housing. Marty

Send this guy an email garyglasgow@tiadon.com He owns a company called Night Prowlers that makes a bunch of strange stuff. He has the correct width lowering blocks and U-bolts to match. Marty