martybose

The classic problem is the short wire to the points inside the distributor finally wearing through the insulation and grounding to the housing; did you check it? Marty

Being someone who works in a medium-sized shipyard, I can tell you for a fact that the maintenance on the hull isn't exactly cheap either! Marty

My 47 business coupe uses the front shock conversion with a pair of Chebby pickup shocks, and rides quite nicely. The rear shocks, on the other hand, are a set of gas pressure shocks on the stock mounts, and really don't do much. If I drive over a speed bump the front end of the car goes over nicely with minimum movement, while the back compresses easily and bounces a few times. Can anyone recommend a rear shock that is the correct length with fairly firm control? Marty

If you go to the top of the forum page you will find a link that says "Return to P15-D24.Com"; that is where most of our stuff is archived. Marty

I'm using a very light return spring on my linkage just to ensure that the idle speed isn't affected by the throttle linkage. Marty

Not in regards to the oil pump. The crank, rods and flywheel are different. Marty

The stud that bypasses the resistor on startup is also a good source if you are using a DA plug to immediately energize a one wire alternator to start charging instantly instead of waiting for the engine to be revved up. Ordinarily this wire would go to the hot side of the coil, but I found out that the Langdon HEI conversion doesn't like this at all! Marty

Not really. The first disk brake car I owned was my 65 Mustang with the HP 271 horse 289; it came stock with front disk brakes and no booster, and stopped very well. Marty

I've decided that I want to know more about the jetting in my Carter-Webers. They are easily accessed, since all you have to do is remove the pin holding the air cleaner stud bridge and they are right there, no further carb disassembly required. It turns out that the first issue is getting them out, as they use a damaged thread form of locking, and they are very tightly installed. The real issue about getting them out is that you need a tightly fitting screw driver that is 5/8" wide, and the shank has to be the same width to clear the carb body casting. After struggling for a while I hit the McMaster-Carr web site http://www.mcmaster.com and found the perfect screwdriver for this. It is part number 7297A22, described as a hollowed-tip screwdriver, 5/16" wide, .040 thickness tip, only $9.78 (plus shipping). Once I had the proper tool I pulled all of the jets. It's quite a collection, as there are 4 jets for each throttle bore (main jet, idle jet, air corrector jet and emulsion tube), and the primary and secondary don't have any in common. The real surprise was that the two carbs, which were purchased new as a pair, had slightly different air correction jets in the primary bores. All of the others were identical. They are: part name Primary Secondary main jet 105 100 idle jet 065 060 air corrector jet 150/155 250 emulsion tube F53 F22 Interestingly, the tables I have don't even list an F53 emulsion tube for Weber DFTA carbs (their designation for these) but they do list an F53 for a closely related different model. I'm now waiting for the back-ordered book on weber tuning theory so that I can work up a plan on what I want to change based on my driving symptoms. I've found a couple of sources for the component parts, I just need to decide what I want. While I'm waiting for the book I'm working on new air cleaner bases and gaskets so they will be ready to reinstall. Marty

This is kind of funny, as I talked to Neil about a year ago, and he said not to bother with a 12V, just use the 6V solenoid. I've had my OD working for maybe a year using my own circuits made up using commercial relays from McMaster-Carr, and it has been flawless. Marty

You can buy inverted flare to AN adapters, then just use AN fittings in the engine and an AN hose. That's what I did for my 47. Marty

I hear what you (and Don) are saying, but I don't think so. Right now I am running 2 degrees static and only 13 degrees total with vacuum. Ironically, I think part of my problem is my 9 to 1 compression and my mildest of 3 grinds cam. If I had gotten a longer duration cam it would have bled off a little more compression. I could be all wet on this, but I'm pursuing the carb tuning angle anyway. If it turns out I'm wrong, I'll fess up. Marty

Looks like way too much lead to me. I'd try setting the initial at 0 degrees and go for a run just to see if it runs cooler. When I first installed my Langdon HEI I had too much total lead at highway speed and it was heating up. When I limited the total advance it cooled right down again. Marty

Interesting. I've pretty much convinced myself that my Carter-Webers are a bit lean just off idle, as my car pings during light throttle acceleration, but quiets down (pinging wise, anyway!) if I put my foot in enough to get into the secondaries or the power valves. It's really interesting if you are accelerating hard and slowly lift the throttle, as just before I get down to the throttle opening to sustain a constant speed I will get a burst of pinging. I'm buying a book on Weber jetting theory this weekend to start pondering changes. Marty

Given that the L6 weighs over 700 pounds by itself, I don't think the weight is a big issue. Torque could be another thing altogether! I've seen a 440 in a P15, but it was mounted pretty high to clear the steering. It didn't need the firewall cut; having a front-mounted distributor really helps! Being mounted that high did require some floor work to clear the tranny. Also, if memory serves, I've seen a B-block 383 in a P15 that was mounted much lower than the 440 above, and didn't require floor rework. If a B-block will fit, you should be able to mount an RB pretty much the same way. Marty

The yellow must be the first color to fade out. Mine goes from light green to white to light red, and I had no idea that the intermediate color should be yellow! Marty

James, It sounds like you have found a good source for Weber stuff. As I am about to embark on a similar journey with my Carter-Webers, can you point me in the right direction? Marty

You beat me to it; I just read the article. I was a little surprised by the 10 to 1 compression and the 300 horsepower figure, though. Marty

Back in the 70's I was a crewman on a Barracuda that we had seriously lightened and put a 440 single 4 barrel automatic in. It would run 10.20's all day long, and the driver was really good at the tree. We used to enter a local 9.99 no breakout bracket class, because we could run flat out without going too quickly, and all of the 9 flat sandbaggers would generally run quicker than 9.99 trying to get around us. Marty

That's good to hear, as I'm convinced it is two thirds of the battle. John, keep your spirits up and keep fighting, and you'll be fine! Marty, a prostate cancer survivor; been there, done that!

I don't know how common they are, but I bought one for my 47 about 10 years ago. The kit includes wiring that goes to a pushbutton located at the bottom of the dashboard. Marty

My OD unit has all of the 6V components on it, and is working just fine on 12V. I had called Neil Riddle about getting a 12V solenoid, and he had said not to bother, that most of his customers are running 12V on the original 6V solenoid with no problems. I am not using any of the original or OEM relays; I redid the circuits using commercial relays sourced from McMaster-Carr. Works just fine! Marty

If you are talking about a completely stock engine, I agree with you. For a modified motor, not so much. Marty

This is true as long as you are using the ported vacuum from a carburetor. If the distributor is hooked up to manifold vacuum, you would have to disconnect and plug the vacuum line. Marty

I highly recommend Juliano's, as they have a very clever floor mounting kit that doesn't require welding but does prevent the belt mount from cutting through the floor. I installed three of their belts in my business coupe. Marty