48Dodger

I "got" that the door was the best you could find, that's why I didnt suggest getting a different door. Not to mention the frustration when you think you found a better part and BAM! It has its own set of hidden problems. On a different note, a guy fixes a door like that, paints it, not many will even know what'ca did. Its a personal victory. Unlike chopping, frenching, or slammin', where the curiousity level is high. Fix'n a door like that, is good for the soul, its one of the reasons why I love the old iron. 48D

Judging by how deteriotated it is....I would suggest tearing the whole door down....bolts, glass, registers, rubber, etc. Get it stripped down to metal via sand blasting or better yet, acid dipped. Here's a DIY link: http://www.jefflilly.com/chevelle-restoration/acidtrip.pdf ) When you can see all the rust damage, then you can better judge the project. You can cut in new steel, fiberglass, lead fill, etc.... I think welding would be best, but there are some metal bonding compounds that are great for bringing together older "thin" steel and a patch panel. Here's a link: http://www.autobodystore.com/metal_bonding.shtml Either way...I would completely expose it, so you know what'ca got. 48D

I'm working on the cab removal now....hopfully it helps members who are completely new to these trucks, and maybe it'll help get some involved. And maybe my narrations will get better too, gotta learn to relax a little when talkin'. I'll keep the transmission video in mind. I don't want to spead myself to thin right now....got a bunch going on. I have 3 different type of trannys laying around here and I think I could put together a pretty good presentation with those. You're right Merle, 2 more bolts to mention. I'll try to edit what I have and update the first post. Again, thanks for the kind words everyone. 48D

Well...it IS one of The Three Sisters...and I am showing how to strip them down.....lol. Maybe your computer program is smarter than you think. Thanks for the kind words Bob and Merle.....I'm gonna look into the 2 other bolts and do an addendum if I can find an example. 48D

I don't know if anything has been done like this before, but I thought since I had "The Three Sisters" laying around in parts around the shop, I'd take a moment to make a few videos on how I take my trucks apart. I have no prior skill in narrating, so please, be kind. lol. I'm sure I made a few mistakes, so please help me make any needed corrections. 48D [/img] [/img]

I don't think its staged....if you look close, you'll see a vent window and side mirror. In the next picture the vent window is gone and side mirror is down...I think they needed clearance to pull him out through the window. 48D

Wish I could see the other side of the truck. I bet it got hit harder than it looks, they needed a crowbar and a sledgehammer to get the good door open. If he wasn't hurt bad, he could have climbed out the window, but I'm guessin he was hurt enough he couldn't move on his own. Amazing pictures. Oh yea....I bid on it.lol 48D

Which means......? No welded fenders? The body work looks rough, and the paint uneven. Probably why he went with a satin finish. The description makes it sound like the body and paint is complete, but doesn't come off that way. Otherwise, the guy put a lot of work into it. If there was more chrome, or the color was, say...charcoal gray or silver....the grille would look better, looks cool, but looks like its floating. So if it was mine, I put more highlights in, like black floorboards, unfrench the lights, accent the front with a bumber and/or black out the inside area of the grille. .....someone did ask me, right? lol:D 48D

I like it. Maybe you'd like it better Reg, if it was yellow? 48D

Had a slow night at work, so I goofed around with Bud's grille. lol. I warned him ahead of time. Nothing mind blowing, just thought I'd share. 48D

Figured out the class. Now I have to double check the rules to confirm I can race in the 130 class. I posted two links, one is the SCTA (governs speed records) and an Aussie site that has an easy way to look over the rules. Anyone who wants to help interpt the rules, I'd be very grateful. type of truck: 1946 and up- PP engine: 408 ci -B B/PP http://www.scta-bni.org/ http://www.dlra.org.au/carclass.htm#PP 48D

You're killing me Coatney, full quotes please!! lol 48D

Sounds like a great time. Wish I could make it, but I dont know where Maryland is. I'm guessing its Canada somewhere, right? lol. Just kidding. Seriously, it looks like fun, I look forward to seeing a bunch of "our" trucks out there. 48D

Hey Dutch, Got your message last night, midnight your time. My daugther is showing cows this weekend. Been keeping me busy during the day. I'll try and call you back today. 48D

Found an awesome website. These guys kept thier truck closer to original than I am (engine suspension, not looks), but the 2006 story they tell is very inspiring. They weren't in the 130 mph class. I don't understand all the classes yet, but they mention they got to 110 on asphalt but only 97 on the salt, 5 mph from the record they were going for. The 2007 story is incomplete. Oh...and check out the vehicle transport...lol...I love it. 48D http://www.lindertech.com/gas/index.html You can see his 2006 results here under Linder/Basala XF/PP http://www.saltflats.com/aresults091406.htm

Its the "130 class". I want to use a Dakota steering collum, but Bud brings up a good point. By moving the Dakota firewall in to clear the back side of the engine, I'm adding "interior length" to the collum. My only saving grace might be the racing seat. I'll place the collum first and see where the seat will end up. 48D

Actually the section on Merle's picture is the same as the ones in my first picture. When you remove the front sheet metal, the splash shield extentions stay behind. My second pic shows the two together out of the truck. Of course i'm glad you found what'ca needed. 48D

Hey Bud, Working on a few pictures to share, but most of the work has been parts gathering. I have a wrecking guy saving a steering wheel/collum, brake assembly, gas pedal, and e-brake for me (dakota), a decal guy, and a few others doing miscelaneous work for me. I've been searching for 15x5.5 in the junk yards around here with no luck. I'm buying a pair from Dutch. The 15x7's are yet to be found. The paperwork has been a bit of a project in itself. None of it is done online. Entry form, medical forms, participant release, Club membership (USFRA), and the Radio Announcer information form....all have to be filled out and mailed. Add the paperwork to get time off, reserving two hotel rooms in two different locations and getting everyone on the same page and , and...and...I think I need an event coordinater.... lol. I do have a full time job, two kids in High School, a ranch to take care of, not to mention a shop where my part time money is made (ie race money)......this project is being done during my personal time which is what it is for now...small...lol. I promise to have pictures as soon as it gets interesting. 48D P.S. while tearing down the 48 truck for Bryan's truck (member from elk grove, ca) I did do a quick video of how to remove the front sheet metal and cab for newbies. I had parts laying out so I thought I'd give it a try. I'll post that soon.

Sorry, I guess I missed the part about removing a leaf from one side only. I would only do that in circle track racing. I meant to remove equal numbers til level. Having said that, B-body muscle cars with HP motors had 7 leaves on the torque side and 4 on the other. How far off are you Merle? 48D

Hey Dutch, I may have to live with the shipping. I can't seem to find any rims local and the Ford rims I've had in the past do have smaller center holes. What about greyhound? I live near "Stockton Wheel" but they want a bit of change for their's. 48D

It was my understanding trucks in general were "raked" from the factory to anticipate a load to the rear. Maybe the nice truck needs to have his springs re-arc'd. I agree with GB, removing a leaf or two til level would work. You have the overload springs to catch that "load of wood" you might get, and your ride might get smoother too. 48D

Thanks Guys, I contacted Dutch for the 5.5's.......hopfully the 7's show up as fast. 48D

I need a pair of 15 x 5.5 rims, and a pair of 15 x 7's for my 130mph bid on the salt (bonneville). If anyone has either pair that will fit my 50' truck, that would be great. 48D

Been busy getting ready for Bonneville. Filling out paperwork, asking for time off, and of course building the truck. I have to be in Utah for tech on the 15th, then the actually event "World of Speed", which is the 16th through the 19th. I get 5 runs total to make 130 mph twice. I have 4 days to do this. I'm selling as many spare parts I have to fund the trip, so anything you guys can think of...hopfully I have it. lol. Ed. Got the driver side rocker panel for you and half of the passenger side for the dakota. Let me know how to get it to you. 48D

These parts? The splash shield extentions. These are splash shields with the extentions connected. Hey JJ, I'm racing my 50' at Bonneville in september, whatever you want to pay for them will be towards that effort. 48D