48Dodger

Yep. thats's the one. 48D

There was someone with a picture of a red/orange PH that had that very grille on a finished truck. Personally I think I'm nuetral on the look, but might be swayed by a 6 pak of American B-double-ER.....or candy...... 48D

beautiful....... 48D

Yea...I'd like to see that, lol. Maybe you could build up the Body and Frame together, block the body up with steel 2x3's across sawhorses (steel), than take the wheels off, lower the frame out from under the body, THEN roll the new frame underneth. Cake dude. lol. I have a Dakota laying around the shop here too, but I think I'll wait til you guys finish figuring it out and write a book. 48D

Cool pics Dennis.....quite a collection of "projects". lol 48D

Nothing wrong with "trading paint",....keeps people honest. lol:D Back to the shop. 48D

Great pictures!!! Felt like I was there.... 48D

Are you asking me to read and research thier posts for you??? lol. I've never felt a site wasn't "friendly" because I was asked to inform myself. Even my professors appreciated an informed question. Hey p15-p24, It is the nature of a forum, But judging from the responses, maybe a sticky about "how to search the site" in the theads page would be helpful. I know a sticky on the truck side could use one concerning the "VISIT DPETCA" button. Just a thought. 48D

Thanks for the post Don....gonna try this on my son's room. 48D

lol. agreed. 48D

There are several forums I know of that address this kind of thing right up front. Read, Research, then ask. I think it's only fair to respect the knowledge of the guys here by reading the vast amount of infomation they've already shared. Come on, Norm's Coupe has 7,522 post and Don has 6,983.....its not all jokin around. Don doesn't know 6950 jokes and 33 useful bits of information. I think he only has about 3 good jokes......lol. Seriously, nothing wrong with a sticky ask'n newbies to look things through first. 48D

When determining if an axle will fit, I consider the spring perches first. I don't think anyone was trying to say the axles were the same, we were going over the differences. Many of us on this forum have changed over to late 60's 8 3/4 axles for the "modern" advantages. The original question was answered a few times. br0k3N18 "meh funk it, I dont care if its a 8 3/4 or not, just wantin to know the width of it so i can swap one in!" yea...swap it in. 48D

Spring perches on a 1968 Super Bee 8 3/4 is 44 inches center to center. Spring perches on a 1950 PH Truck is 44 1/2. The big difference is the spring perches are on the bottom of a 1968 pass vehicle. The 50 Truck has the perches on the top. 1950 Truck axle's two top studs are 3 1/4 apart, the 1968 is 2 inches apart. The flanges on a 1968 8 3/4 are flat on top, the flanges on the 50 are round. the next 3 pictures are a 1950 orginal axle set-up The next 2 pictures are of a 1968 8 3/4 axle housing Next pictures are of a 1950 truck with a 60's 8 3/4 modified with the 1950 style perches put on top. 48D

As you go higher in grit, the depth of which it reaches, decreases. In otherwords, 320 grit won't reach deep enough to "hide" the 60 grit scratches. You might consider using a 100 grit, spray it with high build primer, than work it with the 220 grit, then 320. 60 grit scratches are deep. Making a big jump in grit, most times, you don't appreciate the mistake til the paint dries. lol 48D

Left side is the driver side. The numbers are light. I have a few frames laying around and none "pop out". Just clean and rub til the numbers show themselves. 48D Picture from the DPETCA Knowledge page

Yep. They are cut to the demensions related to where I put the frame jig. They'd easily be adjusted for any new project of course. These 3 pictures show the drivers side cut out with a bend I put in for the steering box. The steel is a 3/16 PG+E Panel I got for free. I welded up the bolt holes before welding it to the frame. I'll have to find pictures of it finished. 48D

looks like another old school wrecking yard going out of business. 48D

http://www.700r4l60e.com/transmission_chrysler.html As you can see, they are very similar in appearance. But really, its hard to say from your one picture. Check the shape of the pan and let us know. 48D

From what I can tell it looks like a 318/904 from a Van. The Trans park brake and front sump pan are typically use on those. Passenger oil pans are in the middle and Trucks in the back. If it's a 69, it needs the hardened seats and nylon timing gear changed out. The 318 came with better heads in the late 80's I think with the closed chambers and hardened seats. Might be better than tryin to use those heads. Don't lose that damper either. 318's are internally balanced, but the thickness and the timing mark are important references you can use if you go to a HP damper. Are you sure its a 69' ? Can't wait to see what you do with it. 48D

Maybe after you drove it...put it away...tried to start it again, you flooded it. Thinking something you was wrong you worked on it and switched plug wires or put the dist 180 out. Just a guess from what you wrote. If I got the sequence right...you tuned it up, drove it, no start, then changed plugs/wires/coil/condensor again. Start over one more time, and see if its something simple. 48D

In 69 it should be a A-904, not 727-A (727-B is 1972 and up) . Check and see if its a 727-B cuz there's a bunch of those around. My guess its a 904. Most sellers who see a 60's mopar automatically assume 727..... I run a 904 with a shift kit on my 72 stock car, which will be the same I'm using for Bonneville. If your motor/tranny is from the 70's its get a little more complicated in the history. 727 small block vs big block housing etc... Here's a thread I was watching earlier: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=477508#post477508 And a good car craft article: http://www.carcraft.com/newlook/crc_act/116_0302_trans/index.html Vin decoding: http://www.stockmopar.com/how-to-decode-a-1969-1974-fender-tag-part-1.html And of course Wikipedia: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TorqueFlite#A727 48D

Nice work Bud. The majority of my "stock" around the ranch is 68-70 B+A body stuff. If you need anything 318 to 440 I might have it. Can't wait to see your truck on the road. 48D

I sandblasted the bottom side of the cab, shot it with "Rust Out", blasted it again, then sealed it with Rustoleums "Rusty Metal Primer". Of course there was some discover on the passenger side door. Rust through and pin holes. Probably gonna fill'em up with long hair fiberglass. If it becomes a bigger problem I'll cut the bottom and patch some metal in. My time is getting short, so I have to pick my battles. lol. I'll be filling some seams with fiberglass and finishing the rest with seam sealer. All this to keep the salt at bay. Then I'll I'll paint the bottom with a light gray enamel. Why? Well, in racing, when everything counts on you finding "it" before it breaks, light gray works better. You can see leaking problems etc....better than if everything was painted black. 48D

Here's a pretty good thread concerning sand blasting and related ways of removing rust. I posted my "rig" of stuff on that thread. Thanks for the kind words and good luck with your cab. 48D http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=13161

I had to get to the bottom of the cab with the Sandblaster, so I welded some tabs to the side, drilled a couple holes and used some spring clips. Still got welding to do but by tomorrow the bottom will be all sealed up. During the process of sand blasting, I uncovered pin hole rust at that bottom of the passenger door. Other than that, just a bunch of scale rust. 48D