fedoragent

Nope.

Hello Folks, My luck just ran out. My P15 stalled out in the middle of an intersection while on a drive with the wife. I'm literally on the side of the road waiting for the Auto Club. I try and start her and know the carb is getting fuel. She seems like she has no spark. Removed the wire from cylinder 1 and no spark. Putting that back, I removed the wire from the disti. There was spark. Coil was good. I'm thinking it is the disti. What do you folks think? FG.

Folks, Here gang is the dilemma. Unfortunately, I have made a couple of mistakes. One, I purchased some vintage, perfect condition 16" Lyon Whitewalls. My wheels as I discovered are bloody 15"s. So, I have the dilemma that either I get 16" wheels or...sell the 16" Lyon Steel whitewalls. These were just too hard to pass up. So therefore now I'm trying to figure out what to do. Amazingly enough, I've been doing research and have found that indeed 15" tires are easier to find than the 16" tires. I know I want white walls, but my buddy has those Lyons...and they are just awesome. And right now...I have tires on the car that are just fine. The wheels are from the late 50s/early 60s and are radials that drive fine. So, I could wait...for the right time. Any advice would be appreciated. And if 47Heaven is reading this...no doggone it I'm not buying the d*mn bias plys. I'm going with radials. FG.

Persay, I've never had my car over heat. She's always stayed around 180 and have never had a problem. I may run her today in 100 degree weather to see how she does. FG.

The car is, of course 12V and had been converted before I got her. The gents reponsible were saints for doing that. As far as the AC and the extra load, it may take some time...but I'll figure it out. FG.

Ben, It's really a mix of both personal comfort and not over heating the car. And you and I are in the same weight class. FG.

I don't know, but I do know that the original owner is probably as cool as a popsicle and doesn't care now. It as 113 today in Los Angeles. The owner is NOT driving in this heat. And I'm not going to dream of air conditioning...I'm going to have it put in. FG.

Folks, Where I live here in LA, we are getting a severe heatwave. I haven't been able to drive the Plymouth since Thursday as it has been blisteringly hot. Right now, it is 106 degrees and rising, and it may be 111 today. It got me to thinking...theoretically what is too hot to drive for the car? My car has never overheated, but the maximum I've driven it outside was 96-100 degrees. For some of you that live in hot climates, what is your max for when you won't drive the car. Curious P15ers might want to know. I know I do. FG.

I have the stock hub caps. I also have 16" Lyon Whitewalls. So that should do...but should I be concerned about the Safety Rims?

Safety wheels came out in 1940 per Allpar. Does is really make all that much of a difference? If you're using radials it shouldn't right? FG.

I am running 15" wheels, 275 in the rear, 205 in the front. I'm wanting to run 215/75/R16. I also have Lyon Whitewalls that I'm looking to run. Are these Safety Rims? When did Safety Rims come into play? Before '39? Thanks, FG.

Folks, I have 15" right now...I am changing my mind and am thinking I want 16" wheels as the car will sit higher. Would these fit my hub caps and my car? These are from a 39 Plymouth. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=439749 Thanks, FG.

I miss driving up to Tahoe...you're making me miss the Bay Area Tod...stop that. FG.

I really enjoyed this thread as it has given me the insight into your project. Thanks or sharing! FG.

Folks, I'm thinking of putting together a procedure for winterizing the car. In California, the worst that we get is bad rains, hail occasionally and that is about it. I wanted to compare notes with folks in California and also to raise awareness for those that may be in some other climates during the winter. Here is my list. 1. Replace cowl, door, hood and trunk rubber. 2. Replace all window rubber (except for my front and rear windshields as they don't leak. I did a test today. I did the a trickle of water and also a load of continuous water.) 3. RainX all the glass in and out. 4. Replace the wiper blades. 5. Place rubber mats in front and back. 6. When engine is cold, parked and not being used: a. Disconnect the battery. b. Cover engine with a tarp so as to not get rain water in the engine compartment and near my spark plugs or carb. 7. Roll her into the garage. 8. In case I need to drive her, have extra road flares, charged battery box w/ air compressor. My garage is water tight, but during the heavy rain the roof started to pool on top of the Model A garage. Water did drip occasionally. What is your list? FG.

Alright, now with you guys posting suggestions, now my wife is getting into it so I'm getting feedback from all sides. In other words, FG, get your fat arse in the Plymouth and start driving soon. Dezel, I'll call you this week. I have to goto SF for a church event but will be back soon enough. I'm also traveling this week for work as well. FG.

Congrats! What a great ending to a wonderful story. Glad you have the car! FG.

Fantastic looking cars gents! FG.

You're just too far. I've never taken her on the freeway that far. If you were closer we would have met already. Hell, I don't even know if she'd make it that far and back. FG.

Folks, I had a frustrating weekend/day with the Plymouth. First, I had a mechanic spend 3 hours of his frustration on trying to get the door locks out. No beans, and he just couldn't get the locks out at all. I've had two different mechanics go at it, and I had a go at it and we all agree on one thing. C4 at the lock screw would be refreshing...and would definitely get the lock out.... Also, he was able to put my license plate light and the trunk handle on the car. However, he noticed that the 3rd Brake Light part is made for a Sedan. It even has Sedan stamped on the inside. So my questions are two fold. 1. Is there really a difference between the 3rd brake light on a P15 Sedan vs. a Coupe? 2. Does anyone have a P15 Coupe 3rd brake light assembly that they wish to part with?? I have a BEAUTIFUL red Plymouth ship, and I figure all I have to do is just get the appropriate part. 3. If the set screws on the door locks won't budge, then what? Drill the tumblers through and replace them? 4. Where does one get an entire door lock assembly with tumbler? I may want to Napalm/C4/drill out the lock and completely replace it. Thanks, FG.

Folks, Thanks to you I have found many distributors including one in the Los Angeles area called "King Bolt" in Covina, CA. FG.

Folks, I know that these trim clips were not the standard used on our cars, but it seems to me that these would work. Does anyone know where to get these? FG.

Thanks folks! Bob, I have the diagram as well because I have the Streamliner. Has anyone pictures of the UNDER side of the hood? Thanks again folks! Jon

Folks, The hot rodders that had my car before me made the unwise decision of shaving and mig welding all of the holes on the Plymouth. Does anyone have a picture of the rear of their coupe so that I can figure out where the trunk handle, license plate holder and 3rd brake light should be. Also, if someone has the pictures of the INSIDE of the trunk lid that would be appreciated. I'm also looking for pictures of the under side of the hood so that I can figure out where the holes WERE to put them back so that I can have my trim on the hood and the ornament. Lord help the hot rodders if I get a hold of them in person that did this to such a classic. Thanks, FG.

I have a oil drip tray under the car now and Stabil Stop Leak in at least until next month. At that point, I'll get to that rear main seal, clean out the pan, replace all the gaskets and such. We have tried oven cleaner, which didn't work. Dish detergent did work to cut the initial layer. I'm going to try GooGone tomorrow. FG.