cavisco1

I guess id depends upon your point of reference. The polys, while lighter than an L6 are certainly heavier than the LA series of V8s and a lot heavier than a modern V8 such as a GEN III Hemi or GM LS engine. I am most familiar with the 318 poly and it is Wide at the heads. Wider than a 383 if I am not mistaken. Scott.

Welcome to the forum Suprathepeg, On this forum, Dan Babb installed an early Hemi without cutting the firewall and kept the original suspension. There are also a couple builds on the HAMB where small block Chevies were successfully installed without cutting the firewall and keeping the original straight axle. I suspect the LS would probably fit as well as the previously mentioned. The LS based 2014 and newer 4.3 V6 might be an easier fit. There are no bolt-in kits that I am aware of, so you will have to fabricate everything yourself or pay a professional. Most of the builds I've seen with MII front ends usually wind up cutting the firewall to get the engine to fit around the front suspension. Others with more experience may have more to add. Can you post some picks of the truck? The later C-series came with poly V8s as an option. Those polys were wide and heavy, so engine swapping may be a little easier with those. Good luck with your project, Scott

Why not just buy the alcohol free premium if the 10% alcohol regular worries you. There are 3 retailers within 5 miles of my house that sell alcohol free premium. Lead additives are also not needed. The old mopar flatheads already have hardened exhaust seats.

I think Don is correct. Pull the new wire from battery negative to coil and the problem will go away.

Since it was converted to key start with a solenoid, it was probably mis-wired when the ignition switch was changed.

The RFI EMI emitted can confuse the electronic ignition control circuitry causing false triggering or component failure. Solid core wires also allow excessive high voltage ringing (High Voltage Spikes) in the coil secondary circuit which are reflected back into the coil primary circuit, damaging the solid state switching circuit that replaces the points. If I remember correctly, one of our forum members recently killed a Mopar electronic ignition box with solid core wires. Scott.

Dennis, Did you look at any of the links I posted? All the systems I mentioned in my previous post can be adapted to work with your Dodge flathead. One of the links I posted shows how to convert a slant six electronic ignition distributor to work in your flathead. Once you have the converted distributor, you can use a Mopar electronic ignition module or GM HEI module. The other 2 options shown in the links are to trigger a Ford TFI module with your existing points distributor or use the self contained Langdons Mini HEI. Good luck, Scott.

Hi Don, Good to hear from you! Yes, a forum search will sometimes yield good results, but it really wasn't difficult at all to simply try and answer the fellow's original question. It probably would also have been easy to point to some relevant search results and then remind the original poster of the power of search. I guess it just boils down to how we were raised as to the things we consider rude, but I've noticed a general decline in civility both online and in society in general. We are both probably too old to change, so I wish you well. Now back on topic; What is your preferred ignition? I know some folks prefer sticking with 6v and points. For some, part of the charm of an older vehicle is keeping the Kettering ignition in top shape. Scott.

When converting to a GM HEI or Ford TFI, the matching GM or Ford coil is a good upgrade path for a hot spark. Scott.

Maybe this should be a sticky or in the FAQ. When someone says "Do a forum search" it may indicate it belongs in the FAQ or a sticky. To reply, "Do a forum search" seems a bit rude and non-welcoming. I think pointing someone to a well constructed FAQ with a link is a bit more civil and helpful. Scott.

Hello Dennis, I've never had much success with the forum search, so I'll try to answer your question. You did not mention if you are still running 6v or 12v. For six volt, Pertronix is the only upgrade path I'm aware of. For twelve volt there is Pertronix, Mopar, GM HEI, Langdons Mini-HEI, and Ford TFI. Non of them are plug and play except for Langdons Mini-HEI. Pertronix requires modifications to the distributor. The Mopar and GM HEI require modifying an electronic ignition slant six distributor with some parts from a flathead distributor. The Ford TFI can be triggered from the flathead points distributor. If going with the Ford TFI, be sure to get a later model remote mounted module (1992 F150 4.9L are good donors). The first generation distributor mounted TFI modules had reliability issues and were subject of a class action lawsuit, but the remote mounted units seem to be quite reliable. With any electronic ignition conversion be sure to use resistor plug wires and plugs. The OEM based conversions are reliable and parts availability is good. If you use an OEM based conversion, Mopar, GM-HEI and Ford-TFI modules are available at any parts store in the US. You may have some trouble finding a Pertronix module on a Saturday road trip. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/mopar-flathead-6-distributor-upgrade-48-desoto.653565/ http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/tfi-using-points-how-to.374699/ http://www.langdonsstovebolt.com/store/#!/Stovebolt-Mopar-Mini-HEI/p/1222043/category=18665979 I hope you find this more useful than "Do a forum search for ...." Good luck with your project, Scott. Edited to correct typographical errors.

The blurry SAMS Photofact I found online shows the speaker as a permanent magnet type with a 3.4 ohm voice coil. I think any 4 ohm speaker should work. If no one has been through this set I wouldn't expect it to work for long. The old capacitors inside change value and become electrically leaky (low dc resistance). The old carbon composition resistors drift way off value, typically increasing in value.The vibrator unit in the power supply also become intermittent or inoperative as they age. Next time I'm at the other house I will see if I can find the service info. With new capacitors and modern resistors it should give good service for many years. Scott.

Howard, This sounds interesting. Can you post the results of the analysis? What type of transmission oil was analyzed? Was it fluid drive oil? Scott.

Nice looking work!

Anybody want to talk about oil?I

I love oil questions.

Did you have to cut the firewall to accommodate the 300 six?

Thanks for the reply Tim, The 238 rods should have a much better rod/stroke ratio while allowing a much lighter modern piston with a short skirt. Some of the slant six guys are using 198 long rods with 225 cranks while using off the shelf metric pistons. The 2.2l turbo forgings are popular. It would really be nice to find an off the shelf piston solution that will work with slight modifications. What is the original application of the chevy piston you mentioned? Scott

Now that you mention custom pistons; I was wondering if there is any merit to using a high roof open chamber head for good flow through the transition slot and making up the compression with a pop-up piston? A custom piston could also open up the possibility of playing around with long rods in the long stroke engines, but even the shortest flathead rods look plenty long to my eye. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Scott.

I really like that rear bumper.

Don, Please try the search function. I believe Mr. Kingsbury has already provided details about the A-833 conversion. He also recently written a blog post about the conversion kits sold by George Ashe. Go ahead and buy one and give us a report on how hard it is to install and how well it performs. All the best to you and your, Scott.

Aerostar front end looks easy enough, but the position and angle of the rack seems to cause problems. Scott.

The first generation Dakota frame is a better choice for track width and wheelbase. I've never understood the point of these S10 frame swaps. Why not just buy a Chevrolet if that's what you like? Just my 2c

I'm pretty sure you need to run resistor plugs and suppression style wire with any electronic ignition setup regardless of brand. The resistance of the wires and plugs lowers the overall "Q" of the ignition circuit. The high frequency RFI probably killed the tach and the ignition module.

https://www.checkadvantage.com/abandoned-vehicle-checks In the image properties is the name of the image. Google the image name and the first hit is the above website.