Reg Evans

So Tim...how did the second running of "The Brick" go ?

Here's a photo of the large nut holding the fan and clutch. It's metric I guess cause my 1.5" open end wrench is just a tad too large and my Crescent wrenches are just a tad too small ( time for a new...larger wrench I guess) You can see the 4 holes in the pulley. Is there a tool made to hold the pulley while the nut is loosened or do I have to jamb some bolts in the holes to keep it from turning? Bob...is that tool of yours with the red handle and notched blades meant to grab some bolts I would stick in the pulley holes? Here's a photo of the transmission cooling line connections. They look to be crimped on but apparently they pop off with a specialized tool. Time to quit talking about it and take these photos to the parts store to see what they have. DAMN DEAR !!!

Thanks for the comments and suggestions!!! I'll give it a go as soon as the parts I've ordered arrive.

This past Monday morning while my wife Lisa was on her way to work a dear decided to jump in front of her 99 Durango. The result was a broken grille,punctured radiator,broken fan shroud and bent fan blade. Unfortunately a few months ago we decided to cancel the comprehensive portion of insurance on the car so I'm elected to fix it. The grille is easy but while trying to remove the radiator I ran into a problem I've never had to deal with. (damn new fangled cars) The problem is how and with what do I disconnect the transmission cooler lines and also the fan clutch and blades. Are tools available ? If so where and what do I ask for. I have ordered the parts but can't remove the radiator or fan with the tools I have. Any help from someone here who has done this would be greatly appreciated. Here's Buck.

Bad timing on my part. I didn't make it there until Sunday during the poker run so more than half the cars were out on the road. The fair grounds are just a few miles from my house. I did see a very nicely restored 33 Dodge with dual side mounts. Thanks for posting the photos !

Remove the cotter pins on the two lower major adjusting bolts and turn them towards the center of the axel. Then give it a good smack as described earlier.

The radiator in my 52 1/2 ton use to leak out enough coolant that I'd have to pull over quickly and add some more water while it was boiling over. For years now though,after slapping myself in the forehead and installing a non-pressurized cap,the leaks in my radiator have stopped.

Well....if what you want is a reliable non tire burning engine I'd say stick with the flattie. If you want to keep up with traffic these days on the freeway then all ya really gotta do is install a more freeway friendly set of rear end gears. I'll let the rest of the group tell you how.

I could...... but the first few would be kinda costly because the type face is not available and would have to be re-created. I'm talking way up there in the $50 neighborhood.

I do ! I added on to her house after she and Phil bought it from the folks I built it for originally. Most recently she bought this MoHo from me. A very nice lady by the way.

Actually you could give yur temp gauge a face lift without removing the bulb from the block and taking a chance on breaking it. Just remove the gauge from the cluster and let it hang under the dash while you apply the new face. Not truck gauges but here's a large 20" clock face that I re-did lately with a large vinyl sticker. Went from this. To this.

What ???? No deep fat fried Twinkies for Zert ?

Hummmm...this must be what is meant by the term..... Live Load.

Exactly where is that yard located? I use to live in Benicia in the late 70's which is right next door to Vallejo and don't remember this one.

The bed is a low side just like on my 52.

I drill them out from the back. The mounting screws will hold it all together when re-installed.

Charlie, Here's a photo of the culprit (center of photo) that gets gummed up on my 97 Dakota Magnum V8 making it idle poorly and stalling the engine eventually. The photo was taken from the drivers side of the rear of the throttle body. Remove it and clean the plunger and seat and see if that does the trick. This works for my 97 Dakota and my wifes 99 Durango 360.

You guys were right. Most of the filming was done in Petaluma.

Here's one but it does not list the displacement for engines earlier than 1940. http://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/otherengines.php

A 39 Dodge D11 is a 218 unless it was made for export. My 35 Dodge even came with a 218. Plymouth of that vintage had the 201.

Down south more in Modesto.

Here's a 52 3/4 ton flat bed I built a camper on 20 years ago. It's on non-op status with the Ca. DMV. It has good grill parts and good front fenders and hood and cab. No engine or trans but does have a flat bed frame to go with it when I remove the camper. $450 takes it and I can throw in a 57 318 Poly V8 for an add'l $200 if interested. I'm in Norther Calif. about an hour above Sacramento if anyone is interested. You can see the flat bed frame laying on the bank next to it in the second photo. It's a Ford frame but a license plate could cover the FORD script on the rear. FYI...the bolt pattern on these 15" rims is 5 on 5 I believe.

It could also be that the shoes need some adjustment to make them a little closer to the drums.

I hauled most of another truck in Old Yeller 50 miles. Before Old Yeller I drove a 48 3/4 ton daily and used it for work. I filled the bed to the brim with 1/2" sheet rock twice and hauled it 10 miles to the job. Piece O Cake.

Oh Cool ! finger sandwiches !