Merle Coggins

I was wondering when the April Fool's jokes would start. Careful picking on the Lefties. There's more of us out there than you may realize. Merle

Here's a couple of pics of the one I'll be sending off to Byron. I bought it a while back on ebay. I actually bought it with a glove box door. I didn't need the door, but that was the deal and the price wasn't too bad. Since then I aquired a parts truck that has one, so I'm giving this one to Byron.

How come they don't put those little cartoons in manuals any more? I think they're fun. Merle

I do believe I have an extra spring. Shoot me an email with your shipping address. Merle

John, If you have pressure on the lower port, it must be a full flow setup. And it sounds like the filter you have is a by-pass type. The by-pass type filter isn't designed to take large amounts of flow. And if the pressure is the same on both gauges how is oil suppose to flow through it? The return line for a by-pass filter needs to dump back to the pan. If I were you, I'd take Reg up on his offer and use the proper filter for your engine. Merle

Hmm. I have relatives up that way. Wish they had included a picture with that add. Also wish I had the space and funds. Merle

It showed $12.66 for me. Still seems a bit high for UPS ground from NJ to WI. Looks like it automatically calculated the shipping cost from the zip code in your profile. Merle

Whew!! Tragedy averted. Luck was on your side this week.

WOW!!! They got all the good stuff. Now I know where to get that Kneutson Valve I needed. And I think I'll order that left handed metric screwdriver too. http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=5&products_id=21&zenid=f81b56533190f5d38b48b0415b566e15

Appleton is just south of Green Bay (east central WI). Darboy is kind of a suburb of Appleton. I don't know why they'd have work done there unless they lived in the area. Wonder where he is?

My truck radiator has the overflow tube coming out of the fill neck like in the first picture, and as far as I know it's original. Tim, your choke preload is 2.176 newtons. Also, be sure you have the Dingle Arm in the correct position when setting the preload, otherwise the Girdle Spring may damage your Muffler Bearings. Also, after my engine rebuild I noticed one left over Piston Return Spring. Do you thing that will creat a bad Rod Knock? Merle

Vintage Power Wagon's has reproduction plates. I have one for my truck as it was missing too. Merle

I don't know for sure. I was only going by what those documents showed. If your regulator spool doesn't have an internal orifice as shown in the second document you probably wouldn't notice anything. As I understand how it's written, this provided a bypass around the filter at lower pressure situations to ensure oil to the bearings. Without that orifice your oil will have to pass through the filter to get to the bearings. I don't see that being a problem unless your filter becomes clogged.

I may have one. I'm in Eau Claire tonight. I'll look when I get home tomorrow. As for paint... I coated mine with POR15 and top coated it with POR15 Blackcote. Merle

How long did you crank it? If it held that 5.1 volts for at least 15 seconds I'd say the battery is OK. If it continues to drop over that time it may be getting weak, or just need a good charge. If it can hold above 5 volts for an extended period of time (no more than 30 sec or you'll overheat your starter) that would indicate that your battery is strong, but if it still cranks slow then your starter circuit is drawing too many amps for some reason.

I just thought of something else. If you look at the two documents that Mr. Coatney posted, the pressure regulator spools are different. That would be easy to pull out without droping the pan. Compare your regulator spool to the two photos. The one in the full flow system has an orifice through the center of it. The by-pass one is solid. Merle

If it's the by-pass system the bottom port should be a drain to sump, so there shouldn't be any pressure there. The pressure should be at the upper port. From Don's drawings of the full flow system, the lower port would have full pressure and the upper port would only have pressure if the pressure regulator was fully closed opening up the "idle pressure gallery". That's how I read that info anyway. Merle

I'm sure that would work too. However, if your diaphram rips and floods the engine with gas, like you said yours did, then the electric pump would also pump the gas into the crankcase. That wouldn't make for a good backup system. I may have to do some testing. The parts truck that I just picked up has an electric pump on it and the mechanical pump is still there, but not connected. Hmm... The electric pump would solve your misterious disappearing gas problem, Reg. Turn the key, let the pump refill the float bowl, and go. Merle

Looking at the drawings that Don posted, the lower connection is slightly different. On the by-pass setup it appears to angle down into the relief valve similar to how mine is. On the full flow setup it appears to come out of the block horizontally just above the pressure regulator. Also, Don's full flow filter housing bolts directly to the block and doesn't have any external lines. Also, if you've been running the engine with the lines plugged, and it is a full flow system, you'd have a junk engine. That would have stopped any and all oil flow into the vital pieces of the engine. I'd have to guess that you have the by-pass arrangement. Merle Edit... I just reread the part about the full flow setup. I suppose you could still get oil to the bearings with the ports plugged, but only if the regulator was stuck closed. Once the pressure rises, it is supposed to move the regulator and block the flow of oil into the engine through the filter bypass channel. But if the regulator was stuck closed I would think your oil pressure would be pretty high since it wouldn't be able to relieve the excess pressure if stuck closed.

I would think you could just tee them together at or near the carb. Each pump has to have some kind of check valve to keep pressure from backfeeding into the pump from the discharge side, otherwise it wouldn't be able to pump or maintain a pressure. And like Johnny says, put the electric pump on a switch so it only runs when you want/need it. Sounds like a good idea. I may have to try it. Merle

Even if it's a new battery doesn't mean much to me. A co-worker here is working on a Willys pickup for a friend. He bought a new 6 volt battery for it, but it would crank very slow and would only crank a few times before it wouldn't crank any more. He would connect his battery charger for several hours and would get the same reaction again. I suggested new cables, so he made up new battery cables with 00 cable. No change. He tested the battery with a load tester and it would drop to under 4 volts under load. He took it back to the battery store where he bought it. They tested it and said it just needed to be charged, even though he had it on a charger before he took it in. They wouldn't take his word about that (just assume the customer is to stupid to understand batteries?) They put it on a charger over night only to determine that the battery was indeed bad. They get him another new battery. He hasn't tried this one yet, but it does test out better. This one will at least hold 6.3 volts on the bench. The other one wouldn't. Merle

Bad or weak battery perhaps? If one cell is bad in the battery, it may show 6 volts surface charge, but when it is under load it could be dropping off to 4 volts or lower. Connect a volt meter to the battery and measure the voltage before and during cranking. This should be similar to using a battery load tester and will give you a good idea of the state of your battery. Merle

Are you absolutely, positively sure that you got all nuts and washers removed? It may sound like a stupid question, but I've fallen into that trap before. "I know I got all the bolts removed, why won't it come off." After taking a break, or getting a fresh set of eyes to look, "Hey, what about this one?"... "DOOHH!!!" Remove one more and it magically comes free. Otherwise it's just rusted to the stud. A little heat around that stud hole may loosen it up, if you can get in there without burning the car down. You don't want to turn her into a car-b que. Good luck, Merle

I can't see how it would hurt anything. Merle

The one higher up on the block is the pressure. The lower one is return. Merle