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Dodgeb4ya

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Everything posted by Dodgeb4ya

  1. You need to polarize the generator and regulator when both are wired up correctly and installed on the car. That is if you need to at all. I most always do this. In the last 2-3 years I have had way too many issues with the new regulators failing.
  2. Could Super job! Could you make one with my Scottish looking face in it?
  3. I think he means the the new pinion yoke seal still leaks. Not the axle shaft inner or outer seals.
  4. Use a modern correct seal # part and a speedi sleeve. The correct seal# and info was just on here. Search Pinion seal replacement or similar.
  5. I'd say you need a nice and clean unused new factory Autolite voltage regulator. Did you install a new OE Autolite regulator? Todays new replacement voltage regulators are not very reliable.
  6. Does the car idle really smooth @ 500 or less?
  7. The mount bolts must be sealed with a sealer too. I always pull the back cover off the new water pump and put permatex sealer on the gasket to be safe. The new pumps just have a dry gasket installed.
  8. Locate the problem noise area 1st so you are not making this job bigger than need be just to save your sanity! JMO
  9. Thought the noise was up front and high? Stethescope or wood dowel will locate close area of noise...even a long screw driver held to the ear. Throw out bearing noise should not change whether in reverse or forward gears. Wasn't the clutch, FD and trans quiet before the repairs you did....?
  10. Reverse least noise.. forward range just a little noise? Might also check crank end play.. pulley moving back and forth some?
  11. The fan will spin with just a slight bit of resistance. It's possible the water pump impeller hitting???? Spin the fan with out the belt. 36/38 lbs Oil pressure hot idling with the chrysler full flow oil filter is fine. 40-50 lbs plus at road speed is normal. Thats a pretty heavy rapping sound at the top of the engine. Tough to tell listening on YT. Might check #1 or 2 compression if the pump is not the issue.
  12. Brent.. The trans you have shown looks to have the correct E-brake handle on it although I'm not up on the C series trucks. There are a couple differences on the brake rod lengths ect. Only way to know is try to bolt it up to your truck. The parts book says most of the truck e-brake handle and parts are the same for 5 speeds but looks like a couple parts might be different. Too complicated to go in to detail here. The hoist lever (levers) are different on all dump bed installs depending on the brand of hoist and installer. Some pics of my property clean up dump truck...
  13. Well as to the book.... I have been talking to McGraw-Hill. Might be a deal when I retire. As to the Miller Tools well they will be sold at a fair price to those who know what each one does and how to use it after a 24 hour training lesson and class room test quiz! As to the guard dog and 4 ton... the dog inherits that. He's sitting in it right now.
  14. I have been through this with cheap imported front end MoPar parts. Even if they seem to fit right they will not last like NORS or NOS parts. Sad.
  15. Probably the planetary and sun gear failure as you thought....all this because of low oil level especially in the back case half.
  16. Call (206) 285-6534....Neil Riddle...He knows all on your car and has clips/parts
  17. I especially like adjusting the #5 and 6 cylinder valves hot!! Ha Ha
  18. Thanks guys for the appreciation and confidence !! I have owned or worked on or parted out just about every letter of B-Series dodge truck. That actually has been a goal of mine which has been accomplished over the last 40 years.. I think now I'm starting... maybe just a little bit to forget a few of the differences between all the models--bummer. So back to Pilot House Dodge truck training I go! Bob
  19. It's important to photograph...tag and bag all nuts/bolts and pieces when taking any and all old car and truck parts off a resto job. A shop should know this too. Save time and eliminates a lot of confusion.
  20. Must be a Fluid Drive with the Truck-O-Matic M-6 trans.
  21. It is a 2-1/2 ton Todd- my mistake again.! I think you asked me this same question a year or two ago. I made the same mistake then! I'm going to slow down on this dear dodge forum help line. Lately I've been screwing up too much. 1951 and up J trucks.. Though not all are rated 2-1/2 ton. Depends on the tag specs on the door post. A JL is a 1-1/2 ton. 1948-50 J series are 2 ton max rating. My 1948 JA is a 2 ton. My 1951 JA is a 2-1/2 tonner. Large 8" pattern 5 stud wheels 1-1/2 and 2 ton trucks most all using 14-1/8" front drums except J trucks. Large 8-3/4" pattern 6 stud wheels 2-1/2 ton trucks all use 16" front drums. Sorry for the piled on confusion.... Bob
  22. There is more than one model of 2 ton trucks. You need to know the model..H, HH J, K ect. to figure out drum and Shoe width specs. No over size is mentioned although .060" is usually max but on large truck drums the OS is sometimes more. A good truck shop should know. The only 2 ton trucks with 16" front drums are the heavy duty two ton J series trucks. Shoe width is 2-1/2" Rear drums on all models of two ton models use 16" rear drums... depending on model 3" or 3-1/2" wide rear shoes are used. Pull the drums to be sure of what you have.
  23. A special head bolt is installed where the ground battery cable goes. The cable does not require head bolt removal unless some one used the typical head bolt.
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