mrwrstory

This is where I got mine. http://www.buckle-up.net/ ... Juliano's, a Hot Rod supplier in New England also sells them. Surely there are others. One thing I do not like about mine is the buckle/latch. I opted for the more expensive model which had an "early style" latch. It had a vintage look I liked but it seems difficult for me to use. If I had to do it over I would probably buy the contempory style which is essentially the same as on your everyday car. I received a PM also asking about the install. The basis for getting a look that is more like a late model car is to rotate the retractor reel 180 degrees from what is shown in the installation directions, so that it faces the outside of the car. You must make a new anchor that locates retractor in the space between the trim panel and the outside skin. I'll do a sketch later this evening

I have heard that points are not deducted for seat belts when judging restored vehicles. If that was not true and you installed only a lap belt, you would still loose points for modifying the car. With all that said, here's what I did. If you have a two door or coupe, you could reverse the mounting of the reel and hide it behind the trim panel. That trick also eliminates the obstruction that the reel poses when trying to enter the rear of the passenger compartment. Kinda like a production car. Coupla more pics on http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v92/wstory/for%20posting/ Be safe and Good Luck!

Okay guys,...I'm back again. Interesting how optimistic I can be about progress. Bet that doesn't happen to ya'll. Anyway, got the bulkhead done and sealed around the perimeter. good to have steel between people and gasoline. Bent the fuel delivery and vent lines and mounted the tank for the last time. Fabbed the spare restraint and painted everything as you see. There are a few more pics on http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v92/wstory/PlyProj2011/ I have also started on the battery box and seat base

Thanks Dennis, I've heard 'bout the pic in The Gazette but not received mine yet.

I put 3 point belts in a friends 56 Buick and in my 56 Ford. They'll go in the P-15 when it gets closer to drivable. The extra effort is minimal compared to the feeling of and actual safety. I'll post some pics in a day or so.

Ya, a key ring holder. Should be a clip on the back for attaching to your belt. A lot of folks with a wad of keys had them especially when needed for work. I think the janitor at my grade school wore one. I associate them with dungerees and bib overalls.

sorry for the duplicate post

Aside from being Mopar Nuts, I assume most of you are piqued by almost anything of old car flavor. At the risk of going too far for this forum, check out the linked slide show. http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v92/wstory/Fraizer%20Fun/?albumview=slideshow It was a last minute pick up deal to Frazier Park, CA, about mid way between LA and Bakersfield, for a show to benefit the town's Boys and Girls Club. It was a nice departure from the big-time shows.

[B]In California, there was an Attorneys General investigation of purchased titles. It was in conjunction with efforts to limit the registration of Specially Constructed Vehicles i.e "Kit Cars". The term was applied to any vehicle made up from parts,...no matter their origin. The investigation found (as I recall) two operations in New York and one in Florida who were selling counterfit titles. I believe they have been shut down and one is under inditement. Alternatively,...in California, if you have a legitimate old car and there are no liens on record, a title, "pink slip" can be issued by providing a "Bill of Sale" and submitting to an inspection to verify the VIN number. I'm sure you could come up with a Bill of Sale. You might investigate that option.

There is a short description and illustration of the process in the latest Street Rodder Magazine. They're talkin brake return springs but the technique applies.

Have a coupla beers and put it off til tomorrow. Works for me!

I don't have the talent to pull off a patina paint job. I just paid for it. It took a long time and they threw in the car to boot!

Maybe a little big but, I think this looks better. The space between the exhaust tips is for a trail hitch "slip tube". The frame was reinforced for it when the body was off.

I've done that too. Diff. car. If memory serves, I made a fixture to mount in my bench vice. Levered on the springs so's I could put spacers between the coils until it was long enough to hook on the hood and cowl.

Robt. Sorry I missed your question. It's 1/4" rod stock. If you had heat enough to make the hook, you could almost put one together without welding. It's real satisfying to make a tool that can be used for a special job.

Here is for Robt. and anyone else who may be interested. I'd like to know how it works for reinstalling the springs and/or if any refinements are suggested.

Earlier I mentioned center exhaust @ the rear. Here's the "sketch". Now that I look at it years later, I think oval outlets would look much better. I have also posted an updated collection of reference pics of the project on PhotoBucket for anyone who is interested.

Haven't reinstalled my hood spring yet but,.....to remove it, I made a tool. The tool is about 30" long, has a hook on one end and a sturrip on the other. When I removed the spring, I droppped the tool down in the space open to the ground directly below the lower attachment point of the spring. I hooked the hooked end over the loop on the bottom end of spring and then could place my foot in the stirrup which was 6" or so off the ground. My weight placed in the stirrup was enough to extend the spring to the point that I could lever it off the stationary hook. I was plannig to reinstall by reversing the above procedure. Maybe you could varify that it works. I would be happy to send a pic and dimensions of needed.

In the process of trying to discover why I made the decisions I did years ago, I had to dig for the tanks info. I bought it at a swap meet because it was vertical in the stock installation. Turns out it's a 61-64 Full size Chevy. Other part of the rationale is that I could buy a new fuel level sending unit. At the time, I had given up on the idea of getting the original gauge working with the Mopar electrics. I put way too much money into cleaning and sealing the used Chevy tank. Turnes out I can also buy a new reproduction unit for less.

It'll take 205,....just. Figgered I'd do a tall skinny. Skinny for a space saver and tall to save the diff. if I get a flat on the rear.

Well, here we go again. A month ago I threatened, "I'll be back." Been bumblin around tryin to make good on that promise. Finally got to it today. Spent most of the time tryin to remember where I left off, six years ago, and why I did what I did. Decided to start at the trunk 'cause it's the most accessable. I had modified the spare tire well and relocated the gas tank because the car will be quite low and I was determined to have dual exhaust pipes exiting near the center of the rearend. (I have a sketch if that somewhere) The new spare well was made from a trailer fender. The tank is from a mid-60's Chevy,...I think. The reason for that choice was that the tank is normally mounted as you see it here, i.e. verticle and that still leaves me pretty good room. I need to recover the origin/application of the tank as I'm remembering both the tank and fuel level sending units are available as reproductions. First order of business is to fabricate a steel bulkhead to isolate the tank and trunk from the rear seat back.

Yeah,....Havin a lot of money doesn't mean you got good "taste"!

I think the Bi-Five Fords are becoming a welcome alternative to the Tri-Five Chevys. How many ways can you make one special. The 283 Chevys blew the doors off the Y-Blocks back in the day, but now, with modern power, the times, they are a changin. And,...... I think they are prettier cars. Here's mine

Okay already!!!! Here goes again.....again This is the result of the second tire failure. The first was on the way to Austin. Friend, Tak, bought two new ones in Austin. They were Michlens but of course Costco would not mount them because they didn't have torque specs for a 31 Chevy. Figured we were okay to head home to Calif. Second NOS tire blew on the way outta Austin. Put my friend into the rail, buggered up his car pretty good and sent him to the hospital. Notice the chink in his noggin,...left temple. So we're on the road again and I'm snappin pic over my shoulder out the rear window. Never noticed the oil smoke out side of El Paso. Still snappin pics but then I notice my bud isn't in my rear view mirror any more. Pull to the shoulder and a Border Patrol car comes up and says, "that your buddy back there? We had replaced one wheel but apparently the other was bent in the earlier mishap, screwed up the seal, fried the bearing and,..... you see the results. Had to leave the car in Texas and have it shipped home. Didn't even know I had the last two pics until I got home. MORAL TO THE STORY,...DON'T USE OLD TIRES EVEN IF THEY ARE NEW! And, thank you Al for your tutorial. Looks like it worked!