thrashingcows

I bought my cummins crewcab almost 2 years ago...and the price of diesel has been more then gas since then. Before I bought it though the price of diesel was always lower then gas....figures....

Olaf....I'll try and see if I can figure out what's going on back there, and let you know.

Look on the full size C-body mopars from the 60's through the 70's. They usually ran a vacuum canister for the Heat/Ac systems. The early ones are tin, but later they switched to plastic. Also check older motor homes...they seem to run a vacuum canister regularly.

Done this a few times working different carbs, and intake manifold choke wells....works great!!

I just picked up the same one as Areo..off e-bay as well. The part number was CC52PLY. I'm going to be using this one in my 48 Desoto...it's a 3 core as well. Not an exact fit due to the later year, but is going to work better for my future plans for the car. They have ones for the 46-48 Plymouth as well. Which should be closer to what you need. Part number CC4749.

Yes it's a Hearse...and I kind of like it!!

I'm not an expert...but I think so long as the shock mount is removable then you can flip them from side to side. But I will defer to what a "real" expert has to say.

Well glad you didn't suffer any major body damaged..car or personal. That is crazy that the metal blade can just shear off like that!! It definitely give mine a good going over.

I've also been upgrading the 218 that will be going back in...installed a Mopar 12V alternator, spin on oil filter, my Slant six electronic dizzy and converted one of my air cleaners to a paper element unit. Will post up pics and info on that in a few days.

And now I could really see the carnage from the original motor lost #1 cylinder!! When #1 let go it also took out #2 as well. The crank is gouged and done...no salvaging like I had hoped. It also broke the cam apart, and one piece went down, around and up into cylinder 3/4 area adn got jammed up and punched a hole in the block! I was lucky that the cam piece was still there and I was able to wrestle it out...now I have a cool cam carnage paper weight!! The fuel pump got beat up as well....

Well I finally got around to pulling the motor out of ol' Fernando this weekend. Been slowly pulling things apart getting ready for the big day...well today was the day. Of course there were a few problems, couldn't get the nuts to budge on the exhaust pipe to manifold....They were put in from below and then double nutted on top! I had to cut the heads off from below and then pound them up until the double nuts hit the manifold....even then it wouldn't pop off. Once we started pulling the motor I was able to beat it free!! Then the hood would not come off. The drivers side captured nuts were all loose and spinning, then I had one that the had forced a bigger bolt and nut into...I had to carefully cut the head off that one and beat it up into the hood area. Once the hood was off we could get to work. Ready to pull.. We just had enough boom length on the hoist to clear the front end....and it was sketchy at best...but got it out. Now it's clean up time and get ready for the new motor and tranny...

Don't they feed through the intake/exhaust? I have a couple spare 25" motor sets, and they were bolted and nutted?

Merry Christmas to all here on the board. Hope you all have a great day of good company, good food and good times....Cheers!!!

Yeah I had to alter the settings as well when I joined. I found it very annoying with the threads set up like that.

I'd love to drop a good chunk on a new interior for the desoto....but have to get it running and driving first. But I agree with Randy...wait until mid/late January and things can be had for a bit cheaper then normal as guys have to thin their personal collections to help pay bills.

You know I never even checked that....just got back from the garage and the drive gear is 1.01...so should fit just fine. Thanks for the heads up though....

Thanks for the kind words Olddaddy and others....I think Tim sums it up well. Only other thing I'd add is I'm cheap, and my labor don't cost me anything. And yes I like to do things outside the box...just 'cuze...

Then it was re-install the vacuum advance, top plate assembly and all is done... I hope all works properly when I finally get my motor installed into Ol' Fernando. Will definitely give an update when i do.

Since I destroyed the original collar from the flatty I had to use the slant 6 lower collar. It wasn't a perfect fit. The shaft center lines did not match up. I had to find a drill bit just a hair smaller then the shaft through the distributor shaft and then drill through. Once that was done it was tap the roll pin into place. Then cleaned up the original flatty mounting plate and installed. Not sure of the reasoning behind the timing marks plate that was on there, but I did not re-install it.

Here you can see the two bushings that run between the wreights. The one on the right is the flatty, the left is the slanty. You will need to use the slanty one so when the top plate goes on all your clearances will be right. There is a bushing/washer that runs on the bottom of the plate, between the plate and the distributor housing itself. The flatty shaft/plate junction has a slight lip so it runs the bushing on the right. I tried using it but the collar would not allow the shaft to drop down far enough to get the collar on the lower section of the distributor. SO I re-installed the original slanty one, on the flathead shaft. Not a perfect fit but should be OK I hope.... Now in slides the shaft...lubed it up good.

So now came the hard part. The shaft bore on the flatty distributor, the part that runs down in to the motor, was 1.060". The Slant 6 dizzy bore was 1.090. SO I had 30 thou I had to remove. Well I don't have a lathe, or access to one so I did it the old fashion way....sand paper, micrometer and a couple hours. I did the hard cutting with some 60 grit band saw paper and then used small, varying size strips of 100 grit to slowly polish it down to the right size. Few pics... And all done...

I had a wee bit of a time getting the lower collar off the flatty distributor. The pin would not move...I tried heat, penetrating fluid etc. SO eventually I had to hack it off with my dremel and a hacksaw. Here you can see how similar the two main shafts are. The main difference...other then the distributor drive portion...was in the mounting for the mechanical advance weights. The flatty weights use a smaller mounting lug on the main shaft plate then the slant 6 one does. So you can't swap them. I weighed the weights and they were all 55g, so the only difference would be in the springs and when they would come in. So I cleaned up the original flatty weights and springs, lubed them up and re-installed.

Well it's done...I combined the two and I think it might work? Anyway here's a step by step on how I did it. Here they are side by side... Now torn down...

Well if I had access to a lathe I could probably perform the conversion as Olddaddy did. But alas I don't, so I'm hoping to be able to do this without any major machining. We'll see what happens. Guess I'll dive in head first and see if I eventually come up for air.

Well I'm beginning to get my motor ready for the re/re in the old Desoto. I'm working on a new remote oil filter, converting to a 12V Chrysler Alternator system and converting the Flat 6 dizzy to a 80's electronic ignition slant 6 dizzy. I have acquired all the parts to convert the dizzy, and tore everything down this evening. Now I have a couple questions for those who have done this conversion. When you swap over the main shafts, do I swap over the more modern weights and springs, or keep the originals? Just wondering if the mechanical advance would be similar or not? I will post up pics and info as I go along so other can benefit from my trials and errors.