48mirage
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Everything posted by 48mirage
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Like everything else there are different grades of the vinyl electrical tape. If you buy the cheapest you can find at like wallyworld you will find in time that the glue dries out and the vinyl gets brittle. You can end up with the tape unwinding on its own and breaking when you touch it. The vinyl tape is fine, buy a good grade that is good for both cold and hot temperatures. It will probably outlast the car.
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Corroded. Use some PB blaster or some other type of corrosion breaker along the edge that mates to your inner fender. Let it work awhile and wiggle the tray to get the corrosion bond to come loose.
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This is the same one I bought. No problems and was shipped quickly. My only problems is you almost need 3 hands to get the thing on. Other than that no problems and it worked well.
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Try this first: http://www.manheimgold.com/ Since these only go down to "fair" condition. I would have to say the condition you describe is "poor" So I wouldn't pay anymore than half of the "fair" price.
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I had to remove 3 phillips heads from the back of my steering wheel to get the horn button/ring off. 2 came out with some struggle, of course 1 had to be drilled out. When I replaced the horn ring I used allen head screws to make the next removal easier.
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Currently mostly stock except for the paint. I have added airshocks so far. Next month I will add dual exhaust and a Holley 94 carb. I also picked up a head from a '54 Plymouth and milled it .040". I also have my eyes on a set of American Racing Wheels for the rear. I am a firm believer that the illusion of speed is more important than the points on my drivers license. Jim
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The oringinal style nuts are also tapered to fit into the beveled washers. They tighten up on the stud as they are torqued.
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Thought about the Orange Blossom Special but just to frilly for me.
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I had the same question when I got my D30. Here is the tool that fits in that hole. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?p=7167#poststop
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Some have posted suggesting the POR product. I like the Red-Kote.
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Has anyone here had problems with there brakes grabbing?
48mirage replied to JIPJOBXX's topic in P15-D24 Forum
I have been wathcing for a couple of month. I saw 2 go for just over $300 then about 10 days ago I picked up one for $230+. Used it first time today. I found the instructions a little to be desired, but I may just be too dense. Got the rear hubs pulled since I got this car in October. Quite the mess. I am now looking for rear wheel cylinder rebuild kits. -
Wipe off the excess, instal the chain and ride.
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That is right a blue colored paste but it is not opaque. RTV if it gets loose can be a killer on a Harley so I use it almost everywhere on it, even the o-ring seals of the intake. Being non hardening I find it still tacky a year later.
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Being from the other side of the pond you might be able to find some Hylomar. In fact I prefer it over the permatex #2, but my local retailers aren't carrying it anymore.
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My opinion, which is worth what it costs. Go to a straight 30 oil and take another look. Multi-viscosity oil is actually the lower number, there are elastomers in the oil that give it the "characteristics" of the heavier oil when at operating temperature.
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For those of you who are running more than 1 carb here is that tool you need to syncronize them. It was listed under motorcycle parts but I can't see why it wouldn't work for any multi carb setup. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=200084239651&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=010 Jim
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I found this but never tried it. http://www.oldmopar.com/oldmopar/woodgrain.html Jim
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Interesting Wikipedia on the Demise of Plymouth
48mirage replied to David Maxwell's topic in P15-D24 Forum
The link is incomplete. For some reason the close parenthesis does not carry forward in the link. Click on the link and then add the close parenthesis and hit the "go" button. It will work Jim -
I got Gandhi, hmm, I would have guessed I was more of an Adolf. Jim
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I have a carb adapter from Standard Automotive #CA 20 (no longer available) that can be used either direction. The problem was this was made for the earlier Holley model 94's. The one I selected had the larger 1 1/16" venturi's and I was going to have to radius the edges of the adapter and that wasn't going to leave much sealing space at the bottom of the carb. I took the adapter as an example and a pair of gaskets for the top and bottom to my local machine shop and they are making me one right now. It should be ready for pickup next week.
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I'm going a little different route. Using the stock intake I have an adapter being built to use a Holley 94 2 barrel carb from a '56 Ford 272 ci V8. I have to turn the carb 90 degrees from it's usual position but this has eliminated 90% of the linkage problems. It will be May before I get the installation done along with a dual outlet exhaust and a milled head from a later P25 motor.
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No answer for you yet. I am trying to get to the swap meet in Wichita Kansas this weekend. I'll be looking for the brake tools. If I come up with something I will let you know. Jim
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Here is what some have done with it: http://www.twbc.org/wd40.htm
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The secret ingredient in WD40 is stoddard solvent. It is made from fish oil and is a water dispersant. After your little experiment with WD40 pour the water out and the 'oil' will still adhere to the glass. The oil has greater surface tension and will diperse water from the cracks and crevices.
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I didn't think Offy made a dual manifold for the chrysler long blocks. I have seen one on ebay today that had been made into a long block manifold. Look at this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Offenhauser-Flathead-6-cyl-Inliner-Chrysler-2x1-Intake_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ36474QQihZ009QQitemZ190067005306QQrdZ1