48mirage

That is the "clockwise" pump they offer. The remanufactured one is listed as "counter clockwise". Jim

I stopped by the NAPA web site to look at the water pump for my D30. They offer 3 variations of the same pump. Two new and one remanufactured. In the individual item description I find pump rotation: clockwise, counter clockwise and standard. So when did they reverse the rotation of the crank in these flathead sixes. I'm guessing the "standard" works both ways. Jim

Take a look at this link. Scroll down the page and in the left column there are a lot of the old carb manuals available. http://www.oldcarmanual.com/ Jim

'49 Dodge Coronet (D30) 2 door Clube Coupe. The dome light had never worked and last week I had checked the bulb and it was fine. I had also checked the contacts for any voltage and I had none. Sometime Friday night it came on. Of course I was in the house for the night and did'nt catch it. Needless to say Saturday morning the battery was dead. When I hooked up the battery charger I saw the dome light on. This puzzled me. I can't find a switch that operates it. None of the dash switches effect it. I have disabled the switch in the right door jamb. There is no switch in the pillar between the front and back side glass on the driver's side. It is only a 2 door, so there are no automatic swith's there. Any ideas. I'm headed back out to start tracing this thing out from the dash. Jim

Went to the Maple Leaf Festival today for the car show. I got to visit with BobT-47P15. Really had a lot of cars. But, as pointed out in this forum before a lot of cookie cutter cars. I don't understand why these guys with 50, 60 and 70 year old cars all have late model V-8's and automatic transmissions in them. I saw only 2 flatheads, Bob's and one Ferd flathead V-8. The time and money spent on this sort of mod just baffles me. I understand 'enhancing' the operation of your ride, but technology from the period of the car gets my interest. Oops, wife is calling, she wants the soap box back in the laundry room. Jim

The rust color (personal bias, see my profile) or go all the way and get the Hemi Orange. Jim

When I open the trunk of my D30 there are 2 bolts that connect the body to the frame. There are some large washers under the heads but in my mind I am thinking there should be some type of rubber donut under the washers to allow a little flex between the body and the frame. I can't find any description of what I am talking about in any of my books. Am I off base here? If there is supposed to be something here, has anyone got a source? Jim

I don't usually advertise those ebay things but knowing what a problem they can be and expensive to replace I had to point this one out. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=190163169105&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=009 If this had been up 2 weeks ago I would have been quiet about it and tried to get it for myself. Instead I took my old one and supported it where I had to, then laid the whole thing up in fiberglass and painted it black. Won't pass as original but it is strong and it works.

Stopped there on the way back from the Black Hills a few years ago. I thought it was neat and the daughter really got a kick out of it. It makes for a good 30 minute get out and stretch your legs type thing on that wide open Nebraska plain. Jim

What rearend did you put in it?

Ex-bil had a '49 I helped him but a camaro subframe under it in '86. He had been driving the old babbit beater since '73. It is still on the road today. Why do you chebby drivers all paint their trucks that same crappy blue?

Sent you an email

Norm, Best I can tell for the Overdrive Governor years 52 and 53 the "Gear, Driven is part number 1479 528.

Tank, Go to the "User CP" and give us a little more information. What part of the country are you in. I like your style. There are a few of us in here that like the way you think. I like the period style "Hot Rod". There are a lot of good ideas in here. Click on my ID for a link to the picture of mine. Jim

My book covers '35 to '54. I agree with your numbers and find them used for 49 to 52 across the whole mopar line in the convertible coupe and the special club coupe. Jim

Modern oils are so much better than the ones made when our cars were new. I personally use the Walmart brand straight 30 weight. Even though it is probably not as good as a name brand I'm convinced that it is better than the oils of the past. (I used to work in a Texaco refinery) Modern multi weight oils are actually the lighter weight on the label. They have polymers in the oil that unwind when heated to give the oil the characteristics of the heavier weight at operating temperature. EPA rules are limiting the additives to modern oils, most of those limitations have to do with the additives that helped with the pressures found in our solid lifters. But, again the modern formulations are much better that the oils of the 40's and 50's.

I bought a '49 D30 all stock. I picked up an intake and exhaust manifold from a '54 plymouth. I had the exhaust manifold modified for a second outlet. I did not seperate the 2 halves so the heat riser still functions. For carberation I had an adaptor made from a piece of aluminum and installed a holley 94 2 barrel carberator from a '56 Ford. Mounted 90 degrees from the original position I was able to use my existing throttle linkage with only a minor adjustment to the length of one rod. I chose this particular setup becuase I could use the exhaust manifold heat tube for the choke on the Ford carb. About any Holley 94 with a manual choke would have been just as easy. This made the linkage and intake mods very simple (and cheap). It really woke the gal up. I also picked the head from the '54. It was the later head and was already higher compression but I had it milled a little more. I have not installed it yet. When I open it up I expect I will find other things that need attention and I want to be prepared for them when I get to that point. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2420&d=1180732703

Bob, looking over my books it suggests that Detroit built only 25 more cars of your model. The last number Serial number for the year was 13,829,336, Jim

Allpar has a little blurp focusing on the '49 Dodges. An interersting read. http://www.allpar.com/history/dodge/1949.html

I use the nickel based anti-sieze in the D30 and my old Harley motor. Never caused a problem and I have never had a plug frozen or a thread gaul. Jim

I had exactly the same problem on my D30. I pulled the front bulb on the "fast" side cleaned the bottom of the bulb and the contacts in the bulb fitting and it fixed the problem. I hope yours is just as easy. Jim

Thanks for the explanation fellas. I had never heard or seen anything like this before and I haven't thought of myself as a novice for a long time. I guess if they could convince someone that they were worthwhile and cheaper than a rebuild there was a market. But like many pointed out if you are going to go to all of the trouble of installing these you might as well do it right and rebuild it. Now, where did I put that tech bulletin for the Bon Ami? Jim

Can someone explain to me what these are? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-SETS-NEW-PISTON-EXPANDERS-1932-49-DODGE-6-CYL-PARTS_W0QQitemZ260160132617QQihZ016QQcategoryZ140692QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Jim

The sons Pilothouse may need new rings. For the engine that is stuck it needs a thin solvent the break things loose. Kerosene will work but may need a few days to work. Add more everyday and see if you can rock the crank back and forth with the crankshaft pulley.

OK Bob, here is a possible source for some parts. CR and Sons salvage on HWY166 between Galena and Baxter had a '54 Plymouth that I got some parts off of this last spring. Sorry I got the intake, exhaust and head. Someone else already took the distributor. Clay has been sending a lot of stuff to the crusher.