48mirage

Not doing much right now. I am riding the Harley most everyday. I don't know if you saw that I had put the holley 94 in. I am currently trying to track down an affordable rearend from a 83-76 A body so I can run some wider tires on the rear.

What are you doing up so late. I am at work doing the night shift. Jim

Here is a link to a Ridgid supplier for 3/16" tubing. Once you have the model number you can get it from any ridgid supplier. And it appears to be less than the $100 Eastman http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Ridgid-36117-Tube-Bender-3-16-No-403/64518/Cat/649 Yes 45 degree flaring tool. I'm thinking that our brake systems use inverted flare fittings. Jim

forget the second one. I have a set of these and they haven't left the tool box since my first attempt to use them. I don't like the other pair because it uses the same bend radius for all 3 sizes. I have done a lot of tubing bending in my work from copper to ss. I have invested the money and bought ridgid and imperial eastman benders for the size tubing I am bending. Like most things the right tool makes a world of difference.

The air moving past the open end of the vent creates a low pressure zone drawing the gases from inside the motor.

Holley 94 from '56 Ford Mainline or customline. 1 1/16" venturi on locally made adaptor. Used the exhaust manifold (dual outlet) from a 54 Plymouth that was setup with the exhaust heated choke tube. Works great, easier starting and much more responsive. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2420&d=1180732703

Here is another that can supply all you need. http://stores.ebay.com/Triodiode-DC-Electric-And-Tractor_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

I used a Holley 94 from a 56 Ford on my D30. I had to make an adaptor to mount to the 1 barrel manifold and located a slightly shorter rod from the bell crank to the carb. Works well. Along with the split exhaust manifold I gained significant power and increased mileage from 14 to 19 mpg. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=2420&d=1180732703

I installed a Holley 94 from a '56 ford on my D30. That and the dual outlet exhaust manifold with glass packs made a bucket full of difference to me. Quicker to accelerate from idle and better mileage than the single barrel stromberg and single exhaust.

Do the B&B's have a dampner for the fluid drive?

He wasn't really interested in buying. Either that or he was wanting you to detail it for him before he shot you a rediculously low price.

This spring I had a guy in SE Kansas instal a dual exhaust on my D30. Running both pipes side by side coming out on the passenger side. He also supplied some SS glasspacks. Stock pipe diameter. $380.00

Water under pressure has a higher boiling point. The higher the pressure the higher the boiling point. It sounds like your 13 lb cap was good enough when you went to the higher pressure cap the mechanical connection couldn't stand the increased pressure. You are using a 7# cap now. As long as you are not losing antifreeze through the cap relief you are fine.

There are 2 strombergs that were used. BXVD3 was used with the fluid drive. If you have a gyromatic transmission they have a slightly different number. The numbers should appear on the side of the carb.

Interesting idea. To cut down on the number of carberators needed take a look at the S&S Super "G". They are used on the current 117 cubic inch Big Dog motorcycles. You could probably get by with just 2 of those and they would be easier to sychronize. Jim

Since I got my '49 Dodge (D30) one of the nuisance items I've dealt with is the way the steering wheel is aligned when going down the road. What would be the top of the wheel is about 15-20 degrees to the left of center. The wheel alignment is good, the car tracks straight down the road. I thought I could just roll the steering wheel to the right on its mount but it will only go on 1 way. I've gone under the car and thought I could make the same correction off of the bottom of the steering box. Again the parts only go on the same way. I'm sure this is a simple fix, I just can't see it. When I got this car the steering was a little loose and I did tighten the slop up by taking up the slack in the steering box per the manual. Any ideas?

My old heater duct was geeting pretty weak. I took it down to the local sheetmetal (HVAC ductwork) shop. They weren't comfortable with the offsets required to copy it but we did come up with the idea of 2 square to 4" rounds. I can install these square to round transition pieces then use dryer hose or defroster hose to route between the transitions.

My experience is most kits do not include the pistons. The rubbers and the springs yes, pistons no.

Gyromatic

I have a '49 Dodge Coronet (D30). While at the cousins salvage yard I picked up a few pieces from a '54 Plymouth (P25). I have added a second outlet to the exhaust manifold and will get the 2nd tube installed on Monday. What I want to show you is the intake off of the '54 with the choke heat tube hooked up to a holley 94. This is the 2110 EEC with the 1 1/16" venturi's. Once I got it in and tuned it has made a big difference. If the 2nd exhaust does as well I will be impressed. Next is installing the later head that has been milled .040. This carb also has a tap for the vacuum advance with a twist.

I looked at the carnut stuff also, on the difference between the '56 Plymouth single barrel and the 2 barrel carb. When you compare Plymouth to Plymouth they do show a 6 hp increase between the 2 engines. That would seem about right with a 2 barrel manifold the engine would breathe a little easier. Jim

No marks. Two pieces that made me think of the "tornado" also. I don't think I'll be putting it back in.

I was cleaning up an intake manifold from a '54 Plymouth (P25) and found two pieces in the hole under the carb. I cannot find them in my parts catalog. See pic. These pieces look a lot like the parts you see marketed every once in a while that is supposed to give you superior gas mileage. Is this OEM or snake oil?

I am getting ready to do this myself. Can't remember where I've read it, and I have probably been exposed to too much information. But here is what I have read. The universal tractor fluid is a satisfacotory oil, I've also read the type "F" automatic transmission fluid is a satisfactory oil. The goal being finding the oil with the highest viscosity index, which is not the same as viscosity. From what I understand the Viscosity Index is a measure of the fluid's ability to transfer power. I have checked and find the type "F" fluid has the higher index of the oils I have looked up and I plan on replacing the oil in my fluid drive with the type "F" later this month unless someone can scare me off.

Report the fraud to ebay. They won't do anything about it but save that email and send it to the buyer if you can.