41/53dodges

The air cleaner I havent figured out yet. Sadly I think the oil bath will probably have to hit the road in favor of one of the slip on universal jobs...

After some repairs and cleaning up the oily mess, I made another test run. I will say the waste gate scared the crap outta me when it hung open once, thought I had broken something! It works really nice, still needs some tuning but it makes a really noticeable difference. I guess time will tell if it works!

the oil return line was my own fault, bad design that broke from heat. didn't touch the carburetor as of yet, and the turbo has a pressure controlled gate at about 7psi

well considering i opened it up in a 1/4 mile stretch before the roundabout and thats what i got when the line blew id say thats about right. now given a good place to let it wind up more i darn well know it will do it!

Still an impressive engine Gene! I took the truck out a few minutes ago, wot at 2500 rpm yields 4-5 psi and a blown out oil return! As wilee coyotee would say, back to the ol' drawing board!

I ran the thing a bit earlier just to see what would happen. Aside from a bunch of oil leaks, it works great! Turbo comes online about 1200-1500 and I can feel the engine breathing better. Since that photo ive added all the hoses, and thats a mess! If nothing else, the thing sounds awesome with the exhaust right off the turbo. Gotta go tune it up and chase the leaks, il post a status report later! And interesting info Gene, I've never seen a newer truck without it! Learn something new every day! -Josh

Gentlemen

Go ahead and measure it up, I know the late B series like mine use the same joint as a jeep cherokee, a 1310 series. Find the series and you have it made! Supplying its a normal joint...

http://vintagepowerwagons.com/featured-parts.html Its apparently the wc-62 or 63. Nifty truck!

Yeah, thats a WC series If memory serves me right. 1.25 ton troop or ammunition carrier. The other one looks like your basic m37 but hard to tell using a phone!

I have been using truck bed liner for many things, simply because of its toughness and availability

So I've been busy doing a little work on my fuel gauge setup, I repaired the original and made some special mods. Most people just add a resistor to the fuel gauge to make it work on 12v, that wasnt enough for me! Instead, I installed a 5v regulator found in any electronics store, it makes for a much more accurate gauge and the ability to easily use it on 12 or 6 volt without any modifications! Now heres some new tech for you, a company called WEMA makes these sensors, we have em for prototype stuff. It just uses a series of resistors and reed switches. Not particularly accurate but darn near indestructable and neat!

Also depends on how the system is set up. They will always have their defaults, but if lne brings o2 sensors and all that stuff the ecu can learn on its own and calculate what to do. Mecanical however...

Here's a guy with TBI on a flathead, I'm going to take that route once I accumulate the parts! that would be so helpful with my turbo. http://schaners.com/fargo/brakesinjection.htm

That manifold looks decent enough, but actually getting in there to repair would be pretty difficult! You may be better off to scrounge for a new manifold, I know I keep a spare set around, good for replacing or tinkering!

If you want a cheap easy method, all I did was grab a cheap chinese extension for my 3/8" and ground it to fit the plug. Much cheaper than buying one! but only does one size...

The only racks and such I have are for sockets and wrenches, the harbor freight socket racks are awesome! And wrench organizers are great to grab and run, plus racks help keep inventory! For organizing, your call! I know from memory where and how mine is organized!

No problem! I have seen the epoxy jobs around, its good to take note of them so thanks for adding!

Not to pick the fly out of the ointment but griffin radiators are usually vacuum-brazed. To top it off the company specifically said to weld on brackets and such.

I read that book awhile back, interesting reading! Seemed like alot of metaphorical life lessons if I remember correctly

How about an Evinrude bike! http://www.liveauctioneers.com/item/8907161

Just finished! it was actually a Griffin radiator, but just look in the tech section!

THE CONSEQUENCES OF A TALL RADIATOR Just for those of you that want to know, I may as well share by adventure with a radiator that is too tall. You have to cut off the bracket that holds up the whole front end, then move it down 1" and weld it. You have to modify everything that attaches to the U-bracket by moving the holes down 1" to match the whole bracket that moved down. and to top it off, you have to remove a bracket in the hood to fit the filler neck. DON'T BE A JOSH. GET A SMALLER RADIATOR! YOU WILL LIVE LONGER!

a few more photos

1: First step is to fab up the brackets, we used some .080" aluminum flat stock and a sheet metal brake. The easiest route is to make the radiator completely vertical, which isn't the end of the world. If you want to get fancy you can attempt to angle it like the original. I recommend using old cereal boxes and such to make a pattern for the brackets. 2: Figure out what you want to do for the filler neck, I got the coworker that welded the brackets to do that. The easiest route is to use a hole saw to literally cut through the welds around the neck, it leaves a neat hole behind and you can easily transplant the neck elsewhere. 3: The thermostat housing is actually a factory part available from NAPA (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Water-Outlet/_/R-BK_6051051_0403487849), Ebay, or any other place of your choosing, Most any Chrysler v8 before 1972 used the right mounting pattern (3.25" bolt-bolt) and will bolt straight on. don't forget a new thermostat! This will allow for your smaller (1.5"), flexible upper hose. Mine is a 21" length universal, but I recommend doing your own measurements to be sure. 4: Now the lower hose is the tricky one. Our factory one is 1.5" and the radiator is 1.75", one good route is to add a sleeve on to the water pump to make it bigger, another is to weld an adapter onto the radiator output. This is all preference, I have an adapter sleeve between two hoses. I don't recommend it, I did it because I had the parts around but it causes extra places to leak and such. 5: Drill holes for you new aluminum brackets, this doesn't seem hard but it's easy to mess up. Make sure you do something to hold the big U-bracket that holds the radiator together, otherwise it tends to spring open wider than it is on the truck. Then, clamp the brackets to U-bracket and mark by some method of your choice. TAKE NOTE OF WHERE THE LOWER HOSE COMES OUT, it may hit the crossmember where the engine mounts. 6: You have all your parts, now you get to assemble! This is pretty easy, just watch the radiator fan because it would be a shame to ding up that nice new radiator. Now you have a nice shiny new aluminum radiator for your truck, it should never let that little flathead overheat, or anything else you feel like wedging in there!