Robin (UK)

Original pinstripes on 41 Chrysler wheels...

There would be no pinstripes if the wheels were originally fitted with the faux whitewall discs. But that picture got me thinking that perhaps those discs are what's referred to on William's build sheet. Maybe they could have been specified in red?

Could this refer to red pinstriping on the wheels?

This may be of interest. The results for the K class (full bodied cars) running vintage (V) flathead (F) engines at the VHRA Amateur Hot Rod Races at Pendine Sands, Wales, two weeks ago... No Speed Class Car 52 89.30 V8F/K 1939 Ford Sedan 57 86.33 V8F/K 1936 Ford Coupe 419 83.66 V8F/K 1946 Ford Coupe 382 78.41 V8F/K 1937 Ford Coupe 87 77.95 V6F/K 1947 Plymouth Convertible 235 77.18 V6F/K 1948 Plymouth Sedan 293 76.90 V8F/K 1936 Ford Pickup. 365 75.32 V8F/K 1939 Ford Standard 216 73.74 V8F/K 1937 Lincoln Zephyr 300 73.54 V8F/K 1939 Ford Tudor 412 72.71 V8F/K 1940 Ford Tudor 321 68.68 V8F/K 1947 Ford Deluxe 348 67.05 V8F/K 1946 Ford Tudor 90 61.95 V8F/K 1936 Ford Tudor 245 58.49 V8F/K 1941 Ford Pickup Cars are timed through a speed trap, after a half-mile run-up on the beach (sand). Dean and I did pretty well against those V8 boys!

I had a pair of those on my coupe, many years ago. I got them from Bernbaum, who still list them... http://www.oldmoparts.com/parts-accessories.aspx

Thanks for all the help, guys. I assembled all the parts I could have needed and set to working out what was going on. Before removing anything I thought it worth bleeding the rear brakes through, just in case. Working through this, the fluid looked good and there were no bubbles. But there also appeared to be no movement of fluid in the master cylinder, although the fluid return hole was clear. With a bleed nipple open, the pedal would go to the floor and return slowly as expected until, on one pump, it stayed down. I checked it by hand and it sprung up, but there was no pedal pressure at all. And then... The pedal pressure came back on, and the fluid in the master cylinder suddenly moved. Subsequent pumps showed the master cylinder fluid doing what it was supposed to do. I bled the system though a lot more and all now seems fine. I don't know if there was a stubborn air lock near the master, or something blocking the pipe, but I've covered quite a few miles since and everything's OK. I hate these mystery problems but it's still good to be back on the road.

Hi guys, My braking system has suddenly developed a problem. This is on a set-up that has been performing perfectly until a few days ago. I'm suffering the dreaded pressure build-up, but only on the rear brakes, not on all four wheels. And it's only happening on the road. I can sit in the car cold, pump the pedal hundreds of times, and there's no build-up. But when I drive the car I get a pressure build-up that increases until the rear brakes come on and the pedal hardens. I'm thinking it can't be a master cylinder problem because it's only locking two wheels, and it's unlikely that both rear wheel cylinders would have failed or got sticky at exactly the same time. So I'm thinking that there could be some sort of restriction in the line, holding pressure on the rear. I'm waiting for new wheel cylinders and a master cylinder to arrive before I open anything up (so I'll have parts on hand if needed). But does anyone have any ideas? Thanks.

Here's a picture of Ed Roth, doing his stuff in the mid '50s...

Yes, Don. That's my plan. At the moment, I'm still getting all the shapes right. Nothing's glued in yet, it's all just pushed into place.

It has 6mm 'ribs' and looks OK, but I've found another rubber matting that is extremely close to the original rib design, with small lines between the wide ribs. Apparently that's used in tractors. It'll be a couple of months before the supplier has new stock, so I've gone with this in the meantime. Good luck with your cutting!

Having just taken it out to get some repair work done on the trunk floor, the original trunk mat almost disintegrated. So I've been working on a replacement and this is a picture of work in progress. The 'grained' material on the inner fender is called hardura felt. It seems to bend and stretch quite nicely, so should be a nice fit when it's glued into place. Everything still needs more trimming, shaping and pushing into place, but I'm pleased with how it's looking.

Sad news indeed. Get well soon, Don.

Nice job. How did you make the joins?

Thanks everyone. It suddenly dawned on me that I have an original advert which would give me the answers... and I've found it! (see attached) It seems that the rubber should be fitted to the trunk lid and the panel should be painted body color.

I've searched the Forum but I can't find answers to a couple of questions, so I hope you can help. I am getting some repair work done to the trunk of my car. At the same time, I want to fit new rubbers and freshen up some of the paint... - Should the trunk rubber fit into the trunk lid, or into the channel on the body, around the trunk? - Should the panel that holds the latching eye be body color, or black? I have looked for pictures on the web, but I've found rubbers in both positions. And trunks painted in different ways. As with other details, there were probably different finishes from different plants - my convertible was built in Detroit, late '47. I've attached a picture (not my car) to help explain my questions. Thanks for any advice you can give.

Hi Simon, I would guess that the bolt pattern is most likely 5 on 4.5. You should be able to find a whole range of 15" full discs that will suit your wheels. I've always liked ripple discs but there are plenty to choose from. Some here... http://hubcapmike.com/vintage_hubcaps.html Happy shopping!

I had a set of aftermarket 1930s Dodge caps and the lettering read 'OOOOO'

DeSoto SkyView movie star!

If anyone finds a solution to the problem, I'd love to get a reproduction rubber trunk mat.

Yes, I'll get pix when it's done. Sorry we didn't find each other on Friday. My car won a top 10 award, which was an undeserved, but pleasant, surprise.

According to this archive listing, the Dodge was a one-off, built for Brewster Transportation in 1946. http://www.angelfire.com/ca/TORONTO/builders/wfclist.html Here's a color picture of the car, on the cover of Brewster's Canadian Rockies tour brochure...

I have several polished aluminium parts on my car. I haven't ever lacquered or coated them - I just wipe them over occasionally and try to keep them clean and they've all stayed looking quite good.

The polishing was done at a local metal finishers' shop where they do chrome and nickel plating etc. There aren't many of those places around. I'll see how I get on with the Edmunds but, down the line, the Sharp may be offered up for sale. It's a nice piece and I'd rather see it on another car than sitting on my shelf.

I picked this up from the polisher today. I'll soon be replacing my Sharp dual carb intake with this Edmunds...

Thanks Greg, I'm going to have fun visiting that website!