BobT-47P15

Son in law is currently working in an upholstery shop and re-doing the interior. Took the seats down to the springs.... did repairs, new padding, etc. This is a copy of the type material original to the car. A convertible back then could have had either leather or cloth inside......mine had cloth with leather door panels. Original colors of seats was maroon and light grey.......new is maroon and tan. Car was Sumac Red when new..........now 67 Ford Springtime Yellow.

Made my kick panel from black cardboard.........think I got it at Hobby Lobby. Cut to size, then covered with maroon vinyl same as the door panels. Made my door panels from masonite, but don't recommend it as I discovered it is too stiff and could not use the springs behind the door handles and window cranks. Also made panels inside the trunk to match the doors.......cardboard cut to size and vinyl covering. Not really same as original, but I wanted a nice looking trunk to display my knick knacks. the trunk is also carpeted same as car.

Day 1 https://www.proxibid.com/asp/Catalog.asp?aid=68561 Day 2 https://www.proxibid.com/asp/Catalog.asp?aid=68562 Most of those cars brought more than I imagined they would. I guess you could restore one of those low mileage vehicles......but then it would not be truly "original". I think the guy who sold the field full of maybe 300 old cars plus crushed out the remainder still in the woods cleared a couple million. Auction was held south of here several months ago. There were a few "winners" in the batch, but most needed varying amounts of work since they sat for 30 or 40 years or so. A pretty decent restorable 49 Plym two door went for about $900.

Good story and pics. Don...did you get my message on your cell phone? Are you coming thru Missouri?

That chrome shop in Nashville probably does excellent work . But they seem a bit high. On prices. Guy in Cuba says price of materials not EPA is what has Caused shops to go out of business.

t think ed s talking in some foreign language here........or it might be risque

Someone obviously recognized a good old car when he saw it........ So....what's next?

Dale is making more progress on the car. It is now painted and the new windshield with Steele Rubber gasket is in. Also he has the back seat pretty much done.

Made a road trip from Joplin to Cuba, MO which is right at 200 miles one way.....just off I 44 on the way to St. Louis. Left the front bumper and 9 bumper bolts (to have the heads actually chromed). There were only three small places in the bumper needing some straightning. Cost was just a smidge over $400. Probably not too bad as the rear bumper cost either $300 or $350 several years ago at a different shop. And, the owner said they will deliver the bumper to Springfield, MO when done, which is only an hour drive from here. Apparently they make periodic runs to Springfield to pick up and deliver to shops there. What I saw of some completed work looked good. So, hopefully, all will be fine. Will just have to wait and see. You can see the bumper didn't look too bad before...............

Are any relays, or other things needed with the LEDs? Or do you just connect them like the original tail light?

That's interesting. I saw red bulbs on ebay and was thinking red behind a red lense would be kinda dim.......that white or clear would be needed. Thanks for the advice.

I think there is a 6 volt LED bulb that can be used in the stop light, but can't offhand recall where to find one. The LED complete lights with frames for the P15 sold on ebay are all 12 volt. Technostalgia made a small run of 6 volt LED tail lights as a test.....to see if they would sell........and, of course they Did Not sell.......so have discontinued making them, per the owner Todd. There are a few 6V in the hands of at least one ebay seller, but when his are gone, they're gone. They never did make a 6V brake light. Just passing this on for whatever it's worth. I am getting a set of the 6V LED tail lights, so would like to also have the brake light to be brighter.

How do you get the overdrive tranny, etc, out in the field??? If you have a cooperative seller with a wrecker, it helps a bunch. We left them the car and just took the trans.

Those overdrive scripts are indeed hard to find. We got one off the trunk of a 53 Plymouth a couple years ago, but as I recall, it was broken and it is now in two pieces. I think some pitting as well. But can probably be made usable again with some T L C. You'd think some company that makes similar trim items could produce a generic overdrive tag that looks similar to Mopar, Ford, etc and sell a few of them. Don't know if demand would be all so great or not in reality. This is the one we got, along with the transmission and all wiring, etc. Had the cable too.........

Congrats, Robin. Thanks for the pics. Your car looks good as a racer. You going to leave it like that for the Rhythm Riot?

A P15 wiring diagram..............

One old flasher diagram I happen to have...................

The original headlight switch on a P15 contains the only fuse in the entire car........don't know about a D24. You would probably need to replace that with a fuse for 12 volt. There are several connectors on a headlight switch going to different places....you probably need an original wiring diagram to see where they go. What I have done in the past when working with one portion of the wiring is draw separate schematics for the things I was dealihg with.......to separate them from the overall confusing diagram. For example.....a diagram of the headlights/parking lights and tail lights only. A picture for horn only, etc. May sound a bit silly but it helped me.

Yeah.........there should be some little studs on the script.........held on with "speed nuts" or something similar. Getting in behind the emblem may be a challenge.

Looks like a nice one.

That ash tray unit looks similar to other 40s Mopar items. If necessary, you could probably substitute from another model and most people would never know the difference. Nice car......good luck on the restoration.

Just use Rusty Hope's front disc brake conversion kit to improve braking. And re-mount the front shocks with a set of arms off a Ford pickup (or, I think, a Dodge pickup). Or Rusty Hope also offers those mounts. If the coil springs are weak or sagging, you can replace them. If you want to lower the front, simply cut one or one and a half coils off. Don't know if any cutting of the cowl would be needed with that engine setup. The engine usually has to be offset to the passenger side a couple inches to clear the original steering box. I'm no expert......just passing along things others have said.

And, if putting a Dodge engine into a P15, you may know that the Plymouth flywheel uses only 5 of the bolt holes in the end of the crankshaft. You need to get just the right length bolt with nut and washer as the nut will have to go between the flywheel and the block. At least, that's how it was done on mine. And you have to match up the holes used.

Nice pics......thanks. So, did you enter your "bug-gati" in the show???

Apparently the original poster may not know just how to post pictures.......hence no change in size. If really interested, one might PM the seller for more info and more pics.