BobT-47P15

Mark......i am sending you a message in your personal message section on this topic.

I use a switch like this.....however, my battery is under the hood and I mounted this switch thru a hole in my firewall, so i can operate it from the driver's seat. There might be a place under your seat for such an item. These switches have gotten kind of hard to find......think I googled "battery cutoff switch" to find one. They cost more than those cable end items, but I personally like it better. I purchased a short additional cable to put that switch in my system. I think Cole Hersee Co. makes one like this....stock no. 75903.

Here is one I found

I invented the two indicator lights because the little green indicator light that is built in to the signal does not seem to work correctly. Under normal circumstances, It simply flashes if either left or right is being indicated. I have trouble hearing the ticking on the flasher under the dash. I have added 6V LED tail lights from Technostalgia to have brighter lights on the rear for both braking and turning. The original lights were kind of dim and someone once told me it was difficult to see me ahead of them one dark night out on the interstate. The bad news is that the company has stopped making the 6 volt P15 LED tail lights due to low demand. My parking lights are being used for turn signals only.......as you seldom need parking lights, or so it seems......and I simply use the single contact bulb for just one thing.... as a turn signal.

As I recall.......i think Don Coatney has a diagram on wiring for a turn signal.....hopefully he might be kind enough to post it again. I could not find my copy of that item.

One place that might know is SMS Fabrics company who sells antique car upholstery material. They have a web site you should be able to find.

I used the 7 wire unit.......and followed the instructions. You do need a 6v flasher can. Yes......double filament, two contact bulbs are needed in all four lights. I have a vintage turn signal unit that attaches to the steering column and has a rubber wheel which rubs against the steering wheel to cancel after a turn. I also made a small mounting panel to hold two red jewel lights under the dash to show when the signal is flashing R or L....wired them in down by the flasher.

Thanks guys......will have to figure out which will work best. Had a straight hose with the old rad.

Merle---I did send picture.......no reply yet......will see.

The rep first said they could change the neck for a fee of an additional $80.......to which I said OK, do it. Then he came back saying we won't need to pay that.....it should be all right.....whatever that exactly meant I don't know. So, it has the standard 90 degree neck......they did say that if I cut it off to make it straight, it would not void the warranty. Ah well.....i was trying to avoid having to go to the trouble of changing that neck.

The new radiator arrived this afternoon........with damage to the box but no apparent damage to the radiator. The neck on the upper tank is at 90 degrees....not 45. So I will either have to get out the old hacksaw or maybe take it to a local welding shop to cut off. I am going to ask the welding place if they can make brackets to attach those little metal fins that were on top of the original radiator. Will take old radiator to show and tell. Will paint it black to match rest of the stuff under the hood. What cooling power is lost due to paint should not make a large difference.....for no more than the car gets driven. Always something fun to do.........

Nice looking car for Henry. Glad he is interested in things automotive. Cool that the colors match so closely. Now.....enjoy and have some fun.

Just called my local NAPA store.......who said......yes, we can order that radiator cap (703-1412. 4# rating) and it will be here tomorrow (Thurs). Cost will be $6.29 plus sales tax. Works for me.

I just spoke with the local fellow who knows the man in Calif who made the original items. He says the man should be able to make some more......and this time I would make sure we were on the same page about how the finished product should be. They were not cheap the first time around, but I paid because it was my fault they were not right. They are sort of usable, but not really as they should be. We will eventually see how it goes.

That piece was made by a machinist fellow in California from an example, which was broken and that bottom edge crooked. I sent the sample, but failed to send instructions to make the bottom even with the longest point. He did make a faithful copy of the item he received. Guess I will try to find out if the fellow, who was elderly, is still around and if so would be willing to make another ( but correct) item. I don't have any equipment to heat such things.......would someone who makes jewelry or other metal decor items possibly be a source of such work? Thanks for the suggestions gentlemen. I always learn something of interest, even if my original question may be a bit dumb.

If your latch on the door frame is badly worn, it might cause the door to stick. Is there much play in your door hinges up and down?

Is there a way to build up the short side to same height as the longest side......the item is made of brass. It is supposed to be the same length all around the bottom. Is a pivot attaching item for P15 wing window.,,,,,on a convertible.

Now awaiting arrival of the new radiator......looks like Fed ex will be delivering.

I received the official invoice from Ledfoot Racing for the new Champion radiator. They are charging me the $204.98 for the rad plus $29.95 shipping....... $234.93 No charge for any change to the inlet neck.....which the fellow said apparently is already the requested angle. We will see when the radiator arrives. I even sent the rep pictures of my old original radiator to illustrate the angle of the tube.....etc. Will report again upon receipt of the item.

Looks pretty darn good. Yes it is positive ground......use 0 gauge or 00 gauge for the battery cables for best results. I see the radiator is missing.....I am buying an aluminum one to fit my 47 Plymouth from Champion so they probably have one for your car as well. May be the exact same one. Someone else will have to talk about fluid drive item. Mine is not fluid drive. Welcome and have fun.

There is probably one wiper motor stock number for sedans, coupes, etc.......and perhaps another number for convertibles and station wagons. That's how it works for the 46 to 48 Plymouths anyway.

This afternoon I called the folks at Ledfoot Racing who sell Champion Radiators (in California).....and ordered one. Am getting the same model number....cc4749, but they say I will have to go purchase my own 4# rad cap at NAPA. I also requested replacing the 90 degree angle inlet on the top tank with a 45 degree one.....for an additional cost of $80 to make the change....so I won't have to go find the hacksaw and try to cut a straight line and all that fun stuff. The radiator is currently on sale for $204.98, modification $80, and shipping $29.95 for a total of $314.93. My radiator guy says you can paint these rads with regular black paint from Wal Mart or wherever and it's ok. Thanks for the input fellows.

Don.....What did you do in relation to the water pressure, as these old rads are zero pressure caps and have a unique overflow system?

Don.....at about the same time you were installing your new radiator......I think I recall some other forum member said he called and talked to the people at Champion, who then made him a rad with a 45 degree upper neck, similar to original. Do you remember this?

Hi Don. My thinking is just about there. I sent an email to one or two vendors inquiring if they could produce a rad with a 45 degree angle neck. Will see what they say (or don't say). Did you get your new rad from Champion?