Bobacuda

Before someone brings it up, yes I have a shop manual and a parts manual and they are not helpful with my wing window problem. I have also searched this site and added my frustrations to a link started by Don Babb on this subject. While going through old posts trying to figure out why my wing window is so out of whack, I came across a post that advised "Do not over-tighten the nut on the bottom." Problem is, they never said what the consequences of "over-tightening" that nut are (the 1/2' nut that tightens the spring on the very bottom of the vent). Could over-tightening be why my wing window is so out of whack? I'm open to suggestions that don't require voodoo or animal sacrifice at this stage of the rebuild. Thanks.

Been spending a frustrating day on my doors, only to have the same problem with the vent window alignment. My vent window is lower at the latch than at the front of the window, making it closer to the window at the top than the bottom - the angle is visible at a glance. When the holes in the vent window frame are lined up, the vent window is at an angle and will not even match up to its own rubber at the top. The window rolls up and down smoothly and "looks right." But that vent is obviously not aligned rignt. How the heck does fixed holes in fixed metal get out of alignment? I will try another some more tomorrow, then its out comes the drill and new holes in the truck. This is frustrating. Anyone else go through this and have any other solution than drilling new holes?

The glass man did not use lube when he put it in and he told me to try it "dry" first.

I don't have an example of Clisters, but unless you want your pinch welds to show, spend the extra money and buy your windshield rubber from Steele. The Roberts photo is on the left, Steele on the right. Hope to work with Brent B3B to get a comparison to Clisters.

The fit on yours is far superior to the one I got from Roberts. The lady at Clesters told me they made Roberts, so I bit the bullet and bought the expensive one from Steele. The glass guys have not been by to install yet (I was gone all week). I got the two windshield panels, the door windows (installed in frame), the vent windows(installed in frame), the rear window cut new, and the two corner windows installed (except I am putting the doors back together) for $326, tax included. I will take before and after photos and post them when it finally gets done. BTW, need a not-so-well fitting windshield rubber for one or your other trucks?

Your story made me think of a funny one about my grandfather - I am still smiling. My grandfather was still driving in his early 80's with a restricted driver's license that said he could not go on the Interstate, drive more than 5 miles from the small town we live in (rural area), not drive over 30 mph and not drive at night. He had reached the point that no one in the family would ride with him if he was driving, and if he was in his car, he was going to drive. While on a Sunday drive, he stopped by our house for a short visit. My father was working in the yard and he heard "meow" from the car. He walked over and there were three cats on the seat, with their legs tied so they could not get away. Being the old school rancher that he was, my father told my grandfather. "Henry, if you are going to take those cats to the river to drown them, don't put yourself through that - I'll take them and take care of it for you." My grandfather looked horrified and said, "I'm not hurting those cats. They are my driving partners - my companions." "Well Henry, why are they tied up?" "Because that's the only way they'll ride with me."

I had my starter rebuilt years ago by an old Mopar mechanic. Yep, he passed away while mine (and a bunch of others) were still apart. His son (NOT a mechanic), put everything back together and called us all to come get our stuff that weekend or it was going to the recycler. My starter drive still needed replacing, the contact for the stomp starter was for a car and not a truck, etc. I was really just happy to get it back.

MBF - I am 6'2" - the seat is always slid all the way back. The bottom of the seat is set as far back as possible - in the final hole. I took the seat out and mounted on the wood frame in the photo so that I could tinker and make damn sure it was as far back as possible. Armed with all of the info everyone has provided, I will re-install the seat frame and the seat, then take measurements that compare with Barry's and the Dodge factory specs. Barry's photo will help, as well. The upholstery shop is good and wants to do a good job (he knows the truck is going to attract potential customers), so once I am armed with the data, I have confidence they will get it right - they just need to know what "right" is. Thanks again to all.

Thanks again. Frank and Dodgeb4ya directed me to the info I needed.

William - Good point. It is a 1953, B4B, custom cab with a column shift. Stock seat. Thanks, Bob

Not YOUR seat, the seat in your trucks The upholstery place did a quality, great looking job on my truck seat and they totally rebuilt the seats. They did away with the "straw" covered by the cotton batting and used "firm foam" - 2.5" total. The problem I have is that when the seat is installed in the truck, the bottom of the steering wheel rubs my belly button (yeah, I know, go on a diet...). Did make me feel better when my wife and son had pretty much the same problem. Anyhow, this was NOT the case before the seat was re-upholstered. They removed 1" of foam from the back, but it did little to help. I need some measurements to show them the dimensions the seat should match & unfortunately, the old seat cover and padding has been discarded. I have attached a pdf with several measurements, photos & a not-to-scale drawing of the seat. Could some of you see what the same measurements are on your seats so I can show the upholstery shop and they can make the seat once again fit me? Thanks. Upholstered seat issues.pdf

Thanks for the input. I have already paid for the Roberts, but I think I will go ahead and order the Steele. Based on your input and what I currently have, I think I will the additional expense will simply be a learning experience. Bob

The new seal I used on my windshield is from Roberts. It leaves a large amount of the pinch-weld area around the windshield exposed. Since my new windshield cracked in the current Texas heat & the installer is coming back to replace it, I was wondering if those of you that have recently used the Steel windshield rubber like its fit. Hate to spend the extra money, but I would like the best fitting seal available. Your experiences? Thanks.

Dave - Thanks for the input. Based on what you said, and the photos in the parts manual, I used lots of penetrating oil and finally a butane torch, but I got the spacers off the vent windows without destroying anything (rare for me). I have about 2 hrs total in the first vent window, between soaking, steel brushing, heating, prying and pleading. Took about 30 minutes once I heated the parts. The second window took about 15 minutes total - nothing was stuck...go figure. Ordering the L-shape fuzzies in the morning. Thanks again! Bob

Fuel line on my B4B ran on top of the frame from the factory. Battery cable was next to it.

I guess I am overthinking this or I am missing something really basic. The shop and the parts manual have only provided me with diagrams of the Division Bar and the Vent Window, but they offer no help on how to rebuild them. First of all, how the heck do you get the stops on the bottom of the Vent Window loose without wrecking the entire frame? The ones on my truck are so tight, until I looked at the diagram, I thought they were stamped in place. I see they have to come off to replace the Vent Window seals. Moving from that fun project to the seal on the Division Bar. It originally had some form of soft seal that contacted the Vent Window, but it has long since dried out and rotted away. What do I replace that seal with and how do I get the seal off and the new one reinstalled? I have reached the point where I am seriously thinking about just cleaning the remnant of the old seal off and then using weather stripping glue to attach felt or Velcro where the soft seal once was. I'm having so much fun on the small stuff, I can't wait to start putting the doors back together... Truck side and vent window.doc

Why be afraid of setting a deadline to finish your project? Heck, I like deadlines so much on my truck I've blown by 4 deadlines and am currently closing in on my 5th... All kidding aside, every deadline I have set for my truck has generated derisive laughter from my family (not to mention the engine or body men). My wife keeps reminding me that its my hobby, not my job. The "getting there" should be as interesting as "being there."

Fargos - Curious about the details US Radiator gave you. They advertise direct replacement, and the one for my '53 Dodge truck certainly is.. Their website does not show a photo of the '55 truck 6 cyl radiator photo, but the V8 radiator photo shows the filler cap on the left side like you wanted. Did you ask them for a description of the radiator for your truck or did you look online and not like the radiator in the "photo not available" photo? If you have not talked to them, they were very helpful when I called. Good luck with the insurance company.

Fargos - I know that the price of buying a new radiator from US Radiator is not cheap (mine was slightly less than yours). However, mine bolted right in, no mods or guesswork. No brackets to fabricate (I don't have the tools for that). It fits, and looks original - except it does is not a honey-comb and it does not have the Mopar letter stamping the tank. It is clean as a whistle, does not leak should not fail and leave me stranded, or fry my engine. I live in south-central Texas, so 100+ F in the summer is not uncommon. The combination of the things I have mentioned made it worth the expense to me. I chose to buy the radiator rather than pay $$$ and expend a bunch of time to rebuild my engine, again. For me, it was money well spent versus a false savings. Having been there, I don't envy you have to make this decision. If you get any kind of a damages settlement, think of it as a discount on a new radiator. Plus, you can get a new one sized now for that 318 you were talking about and save money on it in the long run ("save" is probably not the right word, but not sure what else to use here). Good luck on the settlement issue.

On your replacement drum, does it need right hand or left hand threaded lugs? If it came without lugs and you have the wrong threaded lugs, you will be very frustrated when trying to install the lugs. I believe Dorman makes both lugs. If not, the boneyard raiders on this site should be able to sell you some with the correct threads.

I went through the same shades of hell when I pulled the water distribution tube from my truck's block. After trying pretty much everything you have, I had 1/4 of the tube out and the rest still installed. I was able to hook a stiff wire way to the back of the tube's remains, but could not pull it like the shop manual says. Finally, I took a piece of flat metal roughly 3/4" wide and 1/8" thick, rounded the end off, then sharpened one side of the end down to the other side - basically made it a long wedge. I was able to slide that between the side of the tube on the cylinder side (flat side to the cylinders). I was able to tap that in and basically crush the tube off of the cylinders. I would tap it in a short distance, try pulling, then tap it in some more. Finally, it broke loose and came out. Very frustrating and I had reached the point that I was either going to fix it or really break it. Good luck.

I had to have the radiator in my B4B recored years ago - never cooled as well as the old honey-comb and it always leaked. While rebuilding my truck, I found US Radiator online. I got a new, High Efficiency radiator from them. The only fitment problem was that the hose connection to the tank was centered on the side of the tank, not the bottom, so I needed a new, slightly longer upper radiator hose (to replace my other new, upper hose). It was not cheap with sales tax and shipping, but it dropped right in, cools very well (so far) and it does not leak. They have them for your truck, as well. http://www.usradiator.com/radiators/dodge/truck.html

When I was changing king pins, I took the spindles and both hubs/drums off of a 1970 Dodge 1/2 ton truck. Still drum brakes, but they are "self adjusting" and I have no problem getting parts for them. I was unable to find a donor with the 11" brakes, but they are out there. To me, an added bonus was having all right hand lugs put in when I had the drums turned. For the rear, I have a 1990 Dakota 8.25 diff. Once again, newer hardware I can easily get parts for, all right hand threaded lugs, and no lug bolts.

Roberts has them

My B4B came with 116" wheelbase, fluid drive, corner windows, two sun visors, heater, two rear view mirrors - and no radio cutout.