Plymouthy Adams

sounds like you may have a bit of residual air left in the line...you may have to bleed again...sometimes it can take a few trip around using the old pump and hold method...

didn't think of that..

I wish I could swing a trip to Tulsa..I don't hve the best prognosis for the overall condition of the car but hoping I am plesantly surprised. On the line of a time capsule..I heard that as Fidel arose to power in Cuba a certain person had just took posession of a new corvette and not chaning loss to a changing wind..it was buried on the island somewhere an is still in wraps..probably a bunch of bull but stranger things have happened. Kinda like the old Woody Allen movie where he comes up an long abandoned VW and it starts and run after sitting in a cave or something..did not catch it all or remember the details..Woody is not anywhere near a favorite on my funny list...

Could not tell from the pictures but was hoping you had control...bet you can reallly blend the tone for whatever area you in...don't be surprised when another set appears on this page hooked up...does the extra long tubes mellow the tone or add a sharp crisp brap...

Lou I have been told that they do...or at least for the 40's...

I thought the same thing about being able to sell on E-bay..guess as how the taxes were paid on original sale maye they assume ok..however is there a guarantee that somone under age won't get it..who has the risk say if a 19 year old got it, got drunk...hit kids in a crosswalk..maybe I worry too much.

I have a number of friends and family not far outside the hub of Louisville...more than not if we met it would have to be in that neck of the woods...however still a working stiff and road trips at the present is visiting my parents and trying to keep up with the work needing attention there..however...could never rule out the fact I may be there when you are in town also.

Norm..well said...it I should hit the 1000 first..I tell you this...lunch is on me but the stipulation is that you place your feet under my table to receive it...a few member have chowed down at my place...if they left hungry..was their own fault and the spread was of a fair variety. And hey, was not that hard a meal to swing by the way..had both wives to help out...

Have you advertized this on the IHC forum...maybe someone over there would be interested. I have not visited that forum is some time as I have not messed with my IHC here for a long long time..could not get the son interested in building it AFTER we went and got it...so that is another vehicle that is basically in my way...the property across the road from our small community has been sold..as is the first step they timber it first..I have heard mini farms which is not so bad and then Ihave heard subdivision..not so good..but with the lack of city sanitation this far out..maybe mini farms is more in line. The thing of concern is the idea of a gated community who idea that a rural setting and barns are just eyesores..puts us buyers who came to this area so to have a barn could. Guess you can never outrun them..

I admit I post a lot..I have been know to post a OT here and there most recent the picture of the guy and all the tools...but if someone was to really check you will this is not an increase in post rate to race to some point of no consequence..and if that upsets someone here..well..put my name on your ignore list...don't open my post...whatever...you are in control of what you read...I admit I do not read all entries, nor comment to all threads...I often use the MARK AS READ tool offered in our tool box if only reponses are to threads I am not following.

I like the coffin nose myself..one of them LOVE IT OR HATE IT cars..

I am not aware of roller in body shops but for primer application I can see the quick build up of primer, not a need to mask, work a car next to another without overspray etc...would be very cost effective for them in the long run..and to a production shop..that is money in the bank...it is all what your needs are..no booth, no place to spray..clean the garage and go to work..this could be your ticket..as far as paint shops go..they are getting out rageous in their cost..and this may eventually be a method more people resort to if the EPA and their quest to eliminate airborne solvent..I will never discount the shine you can get by color sanding and polishing single stage enamel. I like this over the mop and glo you get from base/coat clear coat...again, personal preferrence.

I have never used the roller topcoat with rustoleum paint for a car..however rest assured it has a great shine and lasting qualities for about the house/garage items etc. As for using the rustoleum for a primer..I can vouch for its qaulity..I however ALWAYS insist that if you use this..bare in mind that about 2 good weeks to cure to sandable quailites needed to do proper body work. If you are in a hurry..I do not recommend this procedure. If used, cured, etc..then sand as normal and then you can now start your proper application of primer, by this, auto body quality, lacquer based primer surfacer...then proceed as normal. As I have spray equipment I have never tried the roller method and cannot really see myself doing it, however I can assure you as a top coat the Rustloem is good, sprays excellent when thinned to the proper viscosity and I use Evercoat Classic Acrylic Enamel Hardener and it is excellent combination. On another note..if you have panel repair inside your car that will require the use of a seal sealer, like 3M brushable seam sealer, prime with the rustoleum, let dry completely prior to the seam selaer application..Rustoleum and 3M are not really compatable and if you use the selaer first..will not dry and set proper. However lacquer based primer will work on this with no problem. I have used this since early 80's and it was handed down to me by a friend who has been doing this for years before I got into it. He got this from a very high end shop for exotics out of Atlanta...what better endorsement...?

I use stripper where I know I can control its application completely. Nothing spells disaster worse than dried stripper getting reactivated later after a paint is doen from some stripper in a hiddeen recessed interior. That said, I use good ole whale snot, the stuff that is extremely flamable and last can I got was from Wal-Mart..less than 12.00 a gallon...remember if it don't say flamable, the paint stays on...the ether in the mix is the quick lifting ingredient...use in well ventilated place..wear glove and eye protection..it is nasty stuff but will make short work of your paint. I like to keep it away from any hole for trim etc for the reason stated above..I also usually use a razon scraper along with this product to remove the paint just as it softens and when paint is gone..total wipe to remove the residue and then DA the stripped panel. The DA will remove any smaller amounts and film left behind in short order wtihout removal of metal..no sparks, I like 80 grit pads when stripping panels...leaves a beautiful finish that is just right for your primer to bond.

Pat..whatever color you painted had to be correct as you own the car...just that it is not restored...lol I really perfer worlds like, refinished, repainted, reworked, freshened up, even rebuilt. In the past I worked certian peices of equipment for the government and the level of repair was dependent on the wording of the job. A restoration meant to return to NEW condition. I had a certian amount of listed wear parts that were replaced automatically, any other item out of spec was replaced. This went right on through to the insulation of the cabinet interior with new material and a correct color and matte paint. Operation specs were at as new and tested by an outside factor to ensure this standard has been met. This units was expected to serve another 3 years when completed. It was very rewarding work and the units when finished were superb. Overhaul was to return the unit to working order, operational specs met, only parts outside of tolerance was replaced, looks were not inportant. Lastly was the repair to work, (voyage repair) this job was to get a unit serviced/adjusted and brought to working order looks be damned. This was usually written to meet an emergency repair to the fleet in support of an operation where the unit could not come offline and go to the shop..most of these were serviced on the ship. As I did not care to work tight quarters for submarines, I was able to procure some extra items, these I would repair and service and in these times I would just swap out their unit for a quailty built unit and fix them later at my leisure. Other than voyage repairs, I rarely went to the boat.

nla

Wow..this does not sound like a very professional shop..did they state the reason for the welding of the shaft..sounds like they took two and made one..the gears are part of the long shaft and would explain the graft but not the fact that the horn wire will no longer thread the hole...how far up the shaft is the weld? can a long bit (available to 18") be used to possibily clean the weld? I know it should not be your job to come behind their work. Second is the quality of the weld itself..do you trust this weld...is the weld a documented repair from them..ultimate responsibilty rest on you..documentation can make them responsible but at what cost to you, your family etc. These are question we must all face when making mods/repairs to vehicles. More than not the weld is secure and you have only the inconvience of not being able to use your stock horn button...I would not be happy paying for this service and have a unit rendered out-of-stock specs and application. When you returned this unit..did you point out the horn wire problem? Else they may not really be aware of the need to have the hole unobstructed...

Don..looking at the bottom of your picture I can say this... ONLY THE SHADOW KNOWS

I saw the tucker engine name, and on the firewall but as this is a Mopar forum figured/guessed (wrongly) that it was a 1942 dodge..

Don..live to fight another day...my cousins arrived..it has been a hoot..they cannot stay near as long as I would kike..one could not make it due to a confilicting work schedule..called in to support a full prodcution after half day scheduled..and yes with age it seems you appreciate more of the little things going on around you...

Most all of the horn rings are insulated from ground and only tightened to the point to have a slight separation from ground source..it is as mentioned earlier that this can be over tightened or insulator missing or ever further, insulation in place but with a slight misaligment..break/tear allowing contact. The horn need to be adjusted with the ohm meter or at least muzzle the horn to keep neighbors ears protected while you trouble shoot. If this gap is not correct and even around the mounting/insulated point it can cause ease of blowing from one angle only and this is what in turn creates excess pressure that ultimately breaks horn ring as a owner tried to blow the horn..these assemblies are not just bolted together..they are assembled and adjusted..

1942 dodge...???????????

This is one of the reason I do not like the word restoration..though the idea is to preserve and protect the metal for the future and make its appearance to be at it best for the present..the procedure is incorrect therefore outside the scope of restoration....sorry...again not to critize a mans work..only the descriptive word used...

I'm just sitting by..got a few cousins in for the weekend..Bot T. has the advantage...

sounds like yucky weather for sure...the pies are made..nice golden brown crust and excellent raisen filler..already had a slice with some good cold milk..we played some Cribbage while they baked. Tell Lisa congrats for us...