Plymouthy Adams

Here is the little bit I can talk about DODGE 1940 D14, D17 1941 D19S, D19C 1942 D22S , D22C 1946-1948 D24S, D24C 1949 D29, D30 1950 D33, D34 1951-52 D41 D42 1953 D44, D48 D46, D47 FIRST ARE V8 LAST TWO ARE I6 1954 50-1, D50-2, D50-3, D5-1 & 1A, D51-2, D52, D53-2, D53-3 1955 D56-1, D56-2, D56-3 PLYMOUTH 1940 P9, P10 1941 P11, P12 1942 P14S, P14C 1946-1948 (EARLY 49) P15S, P15C 1949 2ND SERIES P17, P18 1050 P19, P20 1951-52 P22, P23 1953 P24-1, P24-2 1954 P25-1, P25-2, P25-3 SAME MODEL NUMBER EARLY AND LATE PRODUCTION 1955 P26,P27

You folks just pool your money..send me..I will take plenty of pictures, save you from the possible leg cramps from wakling..and the most important reason is..my TETNUS shot is current..

I always thought that being a licensed, bonded locksmith was the validation for possession of lock picking tools. It is against the law to be in poseession of said devices otherwise and face it, criminals will always be outside the law..that is what makes them criminals.

Thanks for the Equinox well wishes..for those who like working out of doors..it only gets better from here. I for one was happy with the time changing earlier this year...I don't mind driving to work in the dark but surely like a bit of day light in the evenings when I get home. Who's is the closest to having a long term project about to hit the road? count me out..too much other stuff eating my time..but slugging along little here, little there.

Keys are just a formality on these cars..you can carry a jumper wire and remote starter switch with you...jumper the power to the coil to power the ignition circuit, clip starter switch to battery and solenoid coil post and press switch to engage the starter. If you hve a good 6 volt battery I would carry one with me just in case the battery is also dead/missing. As for locking the car...you can remove the lock cylinder and carry to a locksmith for a key to be made...same with the ignition switch..the step above just gets the engine going...

I use (show me everything thedahmer has looked at) if its out there he has probably seen it...

Brad..I have a variety of cabinet scrapers..keep them for wood working..(furniture refinishing) they are not up to speed for the shaving of car paint...The first car I shaved was an Austin..followed by the Porsche..I had the Austin to primer in two evenings after work..(small car) butseriously..the best way to do paint. Large bondo surfaces on a previously worked car can/will slow you down a bit..forget these areas and work the wire brush here and ALWAYS remove prior placed bondo. Chances are it was just a powder puff job at some in and out quick insurance money shop that could be repaired proper given a couple hours with a hammer/dolly or if you real good..shrinking disc...Body shops are in it only for the quick buck..little flash, razzle dazzle and its out the door.

One thing for sure..the price is right..would be on the way to my house if I were a bit closer as I also have a 52 Club coupe..

That is going to be a clean firewall..I have had to run AC and HTR hoses through the right and 50 wire block through the left..and still got the speedo and throttle to address. Did you see the the yellow coupe in thread "check out new members ride" with the very close fitting bumper..that close fit would be ideal on a tilter..that is if you are fitting a bumper...if lowering the chassis, removing the gravel pan will probably be a must with a tilt...

I had entered your name as the source for a part in building my car and as I read that today I was wondering how you were progressing on the rod...this is looking very good...little hard to see for my old eyes..how far did you recess the firewall? From the pictures I say it appears to be top notch. Looking great..keep us in the loop..at one time you were going forward tilt front..then you said you weren't sure..tilt or standard?

Glad you found someone in the office in the know and that indeed the engine was still original to the paperwork...

I have always used the recommeded oil in the trannys per manufacturers recommendation..not so much that the tranny will not get lubed, far from that. The lighter oil will lube very well, even better because of vicosity..but the difference in the oil is also rated in the SHEAR factor, ability to stay on the wear surface under extreme pressure thus ensuring that the wearing surface is not put in position to accelerated wear. Granted some of the newer manual transmissions do use these lighter oil but then again, they were built with this in mind. Just my opinion...

Bob, were you by chance dealing with bearings and drive? Most industrial place have minimum order...their usual 5.00 bearing is at least 25-30 dollars...I used to get good service there years ago but keep in mind my friend was employed there...last time I was in there I just walked out very light in the wallet but as it was the only place to get this bearing and my trailer was locked up along the interstate..did not have much choice..and that locked me up tighter than the bearing was...they ripped me to the tune of 23.00 for a outer bearing and race..well I got the trailer and my tractor home...you can get these on the average for about 24.00 for the entire axle...

not sure if they have end plugs..usually only rail rockers get lubed through the tube..and then the shaft/tube must align with a large hole at the bottom as it rests on the stand and you will see the extra space around the bolt for the oil coming from the oiling cam bearing (dual holes, top and bottom of shell and grooved) that force the lube into the shaft and out at the rocer arms.the rocker shaft on your engine may not use these..are your push rod hollow..usually mechanical adjusted rockers are lubed through the push rods...I did not see a true rail rocker in my Motors Manual for Plymouth in 1955...

Congrats...glad to hear momma and baby are fine...did you name him Walter P.?

If you have voltage to the points and they spark when you short the contacts..then for some reason the field in the coil is not collasping and generating the secondary high voltage..do you have a spare coil to test with..even a 12 volt coil will do if is is of the external resistor type..use it without a resistor for 6 volt application..will work all day long...

Have not seen that per say..I have seen somone write in on a mis-identified item I was bidding on only for the lister to find its true application and worth..cancel the ad and relist it correct place for 6 times the starting price as before...I have seen tons of this stuff mislisted..we have people who search items with specail words pharses etc just looking for the better deal..myself included..only the seller makes out on this ..some poor guy on a tight shoestring just got ripped out of a hopeful good deal...could be you next...buyer beware-seller be knowledgable is what I say...

Brad..only one word of caution..these generate some real heat and on thin areas can cause warpage if not carefull...they will load up pretty heavy at times also..I have not used these in years..main thing I used them for was after the bulk of the paint was removed..you can quickly clean the stripped panel with these.

Most bearing and seals can be bought per measurements in both standard and metric dimensions. Mic the item with a vernier caliper and proceed that way if you do not have a good number to cross match to. The John Deere tractor I have needed blade hub bearings, no part number, none listed in the JD catalog at the repair shop..so I just mic'ed and searched for it online...found the part number by dimension, bouth 20 on E-bay with ship and hand for about 25.00..that is enough to repair any of my three hubs ten times as it is the same bearing top and bottom. Beats 39.95 + tax per hub assembly from the dealer.

I feel your frustration is running this down..it is evident in the fact that nothing in the lower end is a miss that you paid attention to specs. I personally do not think the rod will be that close as all the things you read about taking a 218 to a 230 does not say "watch or notch for rod clearance issue" I am waiting for the head to come off...this is the area that got more metal work than the rest of the engine..did you mill the head and deck the block?

Yes but are they not symetric? I tend to think the reason for correct indexing of the rods is the oiling hole...I think a very small piece of two side tape and aluminum foil would be ideal for checking if too close. The slight bit of thickness of the tape and the foil would account for any speed whip that may occur. The foil would be very easy damaged therefore proving it to be too close. Thin two side tape can be had at most Hobby Lobby/Michaels. A slight removal of the lower skirt for say .020 clearance should not alter any webbing or water core if limited to the area in the vicinity of the rod..IF it is even close at all...

IF that car is green then let me say it is very very dark..both my monitor at home and here at work shows the car as being black..while the profile picture hints a tad a very dark blue..my friend had never seen that body style before and for the heck of it, do you know how many of these were produced? Georgia law requires that the mud washed off be returned to the state if not used for medicinal purposes..

I just looked at that front bumper a bit more..with the vinyl trim removed it loses it original looks but could very well be a Volare/Aspen front bumper. It does conform to the car real nice..

am available

I have pretty much decided after I get my 41 on the road that the first road trip after local shadedown run will be to the mountains where I grew up. Lots of family still in the area.