Plymouthy Adams

That is why I posted it as MAYBE early 60'...I have one at the house that is electric..is mounted similar in a 4 in 1 gauge cluster...this unit was in a parts box that came with my Dodge truck years go...I converted Porsche gauges to use in that truck...

I sure would like to have that left door center trim....

Norm...never but never entertain getting an old car from Georgia..there is no title..even if you have one moving into this state they WILL NOT issue a title in Georgia...and as far as the 40's vehicles..if was sold in Georgia originally..it has NEVER had a title...further if you got the car from the second owner and went to the first owner to get the title and he did in fact give it to you, it is of no value here because when the second owner registered the car then the chain was broken...it can be very frustrating...however for taking the car out of state...the bill of sale is all that is needed..but for good measure it is best to have a copy of the registration card had the PO registered the car in his name. The title would be of little value except to say you know there is no lien or other claim against the car. All states issuing a title will do so because of Georgia law...it is not really a problem..just at times a nuisance.

The indication of a slight charge is normal for an alternator..this is the main advantage the system has over the generator..ability to generate higher current at lower RPM..the basic alternator should have up to 8 amps out at idle.. Don..I see you have not pulled the small plug out of your alternator and run it to 12 volts supply from the ignition so as to charge immediately...the 1200 RPM kick in is not bad once you get used to it...

http://mightymo.org/Proj_OneWire.html#Wire%20to%20vehicle http://www.311s.org/tech/electrical/singlewire.html Couple places to get you going..this will show you how to hook itup through the amp gauge/ign sw and use of idiot light if you like... For those that have erractic gauge action on the 1 wire when truning off and on certain loads...please check grounds..be sure you alternator has clean good ground independent of the accessories it is driving...

I would suspect in your case that the aternator ouput is tied directly back to the battery intself bypassing the ingnition switch and the the amp gauge. Reason for this is that output SHOULD be an 8 gauge wire for 100 amp alt output. They are hooked up this way so as to prevent battery drain should their be an interal fialure in the regulator. These can be connected to output via sense from the ignition but I did not copy any links to this, internet search on "Installing 1 wire GM Alternator" should get you the answer..it is just a two wire pigtail you splice in....I sent this to Don c. one time..he may have earmarked in adn willpsot this link......My alternator of choice will always be the Chrysler dual field with electronic regulator is the reason I did not save this info for myself.

In checking your amp guage..with the car NOT running, and things like the headlights, blower motor etc on...does the guage indicate a discharge? If so is this a steady reading without fluxiation? If so then the problem may well be in the charging circuit only...check for a good ground on your alternator, clean field connection and if a one wire unit...then maybe have to remove and carry to Auto Zone for testing on the bench...your having to rev it up before anyindication indicates a one wire setup without a tickler...

Another petty attempt to get publicity for his cookie cutter creations of plastic and billet and un-crated pieces parts...never mind that this was a real car, made of real metal with real people in mind...the show now has more potential for rot than when placed in the ground 50 years ago...for those who ae attending..I surely hope that there is no attemp whatsover to dress or disguise the vehile in any manner...would be a total letdown if they did...people are going to see the real celeb..a 57 Plymouth

Tell him you are prepared to write off the storage fee for "their" car you have been protecting all this time in exchange for a lein satisfied document.

foiled again.....guess it took a bit..yesterday about 50% was showing..no prob accessing the bucket..today..zip/nadda..guess the forum will be next to go...lol

I've been seeing a lot of red X's past two days....

Its another Easter egg to go with Darin's pastel green car..go ahead and say its not pastel..with all due respect though I think these car are great in the lighter shades...

nla

Very carefully with good gloves...see Louman Earle..he be the regional expert on flathead valve adjust..he has the patience of Job....

1 complete rotation of the 4 stroke is 720 degrees at the crank which is 360 on the cam.....

Regrind of a cam to for longer duration and higher lift does not alter your ability to set the lash on the valve...the base is undercut so the ramp and toe can be ground offset for duration and adjusted lift. Set your valves according to your timing card..sometimes they are say set a bit more open by a few thousandants. Be sure you ARE on TDC and not 360 out..the exhaust will be off-seat if you are on exhaust stroke of the engine...

Same on our base here at Robins...I can see where this is a major concern with a base wide speed limit of 35MPH...(we have over 20,000 people on base daily) so it is congestion, not speed in our local.

I usually flush with clear water...back flush if there is a seious enough amount of sludge... My method is to remove the thermostat so you will not have to wait to eng temp to circulate...I also turn on the heater control valve to route water through it as the same time. I remove the upper rad hose, place garden hose into the radiator fill spout..start engine..open the flow of water till you get to the point that the engine is pumping out what you are putting in at the hose..route your open top hose away from the fan and the distributor.....let run for a spell till all water returning is clear..or if clear to begin with..just run about 15 minutes to be sure. Replace the thermostat and upper hose, use new gasket on thermostat...fill with minimum 50/50 mix...if in a real cold area...60/40 may suit your fancy..

this may be of help to some..cell phones and state laws..how current????? http://www.legalmatch.com/law-library/article/cell-phone-use-laws.html

There is a chance that a early 60's truck will fit..will have to change you face on the gauge...however..for my money I would stick with the old style and adapt it to the 318..just get a 15.00 nice gauge of the thermo bulb style, graft the head of the old on the tube of the new..wha lah..you have your original dash, new bulb, longer line, new engine fittings...no future headaches.. This is what I am doing with the 41 and the 383 I have installed. Plus..you can calibrate the mechanical gauge after conversion for accuracy.

look in the trunk..right side..there is one there for body torque under acceleration...

yes but I subframed so to get all the other goodies of the modern front suspension and braking along with the upgraded engines..HOwever I have the 41 here at the house...similar set up with stock frame, modern brakes/steering and 383 Mopar...

I think Cliff went right over Norm's head....now here is your true rural delivery mailman...Crum Petree...who remembers him? As for Newman going to jail...

I had the scare of a lifetime...thought I had Rhemutoid Arthrytis..(couple in family suffer from this)..I would hobble to work..this affected my work in a bad way..after getting all the test done and such..coming back negative etc...I started reading all I could on my symptons etc...finally read an article on how some people have a negative reaction to the acid. I had nothing to lose and everything to gain..quit the dark sodas...(root beer okay) I had been putting down a lot of cola over my life time. I even retired sooner than I wanted from the reserves as this was how much impact it had on my body...afraid they was going to kick me out without benefits after all the years I had in..If any of you have similar symtoms and such...highly recommend you give this a try..results in as early as 30 days..steadily getting better...my knee used to ache for no real known reason at least twice a month lasting 3-7 days of pure torture..it has been almost 3 years since then and no knee pain like before.

Used to love the stuff...I am off dark soda now for over 3.5 years..have never felt better..my joints were killing me till read the reason why...it only took about 30 days to start improving...really have to overdo to get any joint/muscle pain...