Plymouthy Adams

I hope I have not stepped on D24 owner's toes..not ugly cars..I just like the fenders stopping at the cowl is all..

Just goes to show you how people's taste in cars differ..I like the massive grill in the D24....has a real classic look about it. I have one major drawbacks on the D24...the fenders flowing in to the door area..

The special race crank flex plate as mentioned above carries Mopar part number 2466715 The book also states all flex plate on all A engines interchange..however one must be careful not to mix internal balanced flex plate with externaly balanced appliations..this applies to some 340's and all 360 engines..

nla

Those beasts are just.."huge" did you notice what powerplant was in it?

Randoid...I do think you will be more happy with working the primer in prepping the surface for the topcoat..second I think you initial amount of sanding will be less overall...I do recommend that the panels if primed do fully cure...the primer hs some excellent sanding properties but if you think it will be sandable in three days..you gonna get some rather nasty sand scrathes instead of smooth surface as the paint will try to "ball"

your are right..the 488 was the earlier model

230 is not stock for a P15 Plymouth...

Technically the length of the shackle should only be changed with the installation of high arched recurved springs. The high arch are longer springs and as such will need shackles longer to allow the travel fo the spring to the rear during chassis movment due to road/load. These shackles should be part of the kit for application or at minimum shackles specs sent so you can build/alter your your shackles. Basically you are only entending this spring to the rear, retaining the geometry of the spring/chassis. The lifting action of the shackles being longer with regard to stock springs position the weight on the rear eye and in effect limits it rearward travel and dampening action built into the spring and will result in that weight being felt in the wrong place breaking down the rear leaf near the eye during flex during laod/road contions...Maintaining good shocks on the rear is the best way to limit flex/travel of the springs.. As for lateral movement in the rearend..this is normal and some cars have a lot..some have little. main part in this movement is nothing but the condition/composition of the rear shackle bushings. Items like polyurethane and graphite will hold this area more firm and limit your travel..ride will increase a bit in harshness. The ride effect is what this is all about..if you are truly into sport driving..you can even go with aluminum bushing here..installation of a panhard rod will however let you retain the factory smooth feel of the rear chassis plus remove lateral movement to an almost non-existant feel..

Think you will find that these numbers are for the early cast iron units with cable (pushbutton) shift...and I think these also had a rear pump so push start was an option..

lack of a panhard rod installed on vehicle...

If I were in the need for a PS pump..I think I would get a small pump with the remote reservoir and adapt it to my needs. The 54 Plymouth I came across int he junkyard was equipted with factory Power Steering...

don't think I would use a sun-dial but will give you the benefit of a longer time as the mill thickness will be great and thus the "curing" time..but..even with this, the skin will be flashed fairly quickly.... The sanding of Tremclad and Rustoleum would not be something I would do without a very lengthy drying period...if I am priming a surface that has to be done in X-amount of time and such...never would I use the Rustoleum product..it needs to sit minimum 14 days..periods of sitting in the sun greatly helps the process. This primer is still "flowing" for about 3 days... As for the topcoat..if sprayed and using a hardner...then working the paint within a few days would be ok...reason is the mil thickness of the sprayed coat is more cosistant and thinner...the chances of a cured topcoat in short time is greatly improved.

These lights have good and bad points..worse part is the heat and possible burn...good part is that they do a good job of lighting the lower area near a shop floor when doing body work. Overhead lighting and gentle curverature of a body throws some mean and nasty shadows while trying to prep these areas...I use them for this application only.

The temperature difference of the fast, medium and slow reducers is still engineered around the 18 minute flash..for spraying the anser is yes, will not add significant time to flash for say roller application in my book..and it is a little know fact to most people and shops don't like to let the public know due to cost involved..but paint is still laying down for up to 30 days after spraying. DuPont Centari, topleading brand of enamel still reeks to high heaven if left in a enclosed garage 30 days later..the quickest paint on the market to my knowlege is Limco Supreme..color sanding and buffing is permissable after 16 hours dry time. It is my paint of choice for past 23 years.

Most product for fast flush on the market is a very diluted mix...I personally do not recommend any flush product that does not contain a second product for neutralizing the flush agent. Reason is, and I have seen this countless times, is that people will use that flush..let it sit for too long..if one is good two is better approach etc etc...the agent is to loosen the scale from the metal and allow it to be washed out of the system. However if you do not get it all out and if any crud in a corner have sediments that absorb the acid..you now have a concentrate amount and continued action of the acid..more leaks occur after an acid flush that I care to comment on. Removing the core plug and rodding the block along with a clear water flush if my recommendation..if you have serious crud problem..trust me..you need core plugs re-newed. Remember fast flush is a short time effort for max money in the repair business where the shop is making money at your expense both immediate for work done and long time for returning work that is often the by-product of the quick fix.

Norm..the solvents in automotive finishes are such to allow a flash time in minutes..say on the average 12 to 18 minutes between ocats based on temp and humidity. The roll on results of the Tremclad/Rustoleum paint is directly porportional to the slow dry time..this allow for the paint to lay down. The oils used here is the slow agent...the mineral spirits is a thinner to those oil to allow a thinner more even coat to be applied. Of course you know this. Working with automotive grade paints you do not have the luxury of time.. AND................for those who wish to make their paint a bit more "durable" I have successfully added generic acrylic hardner to the Rustoleum topcoat for added hardness and brilliance in finish. The ratio is 4 parts paint to 1 part hardner, thin to "your" preferred viscosity dependent on applcation process...when spraying I use enamel reducer of automotive paint grade and throw in some silicone eliminator. Works for me..I normally use this for under body, engine compartments etc where the customer wants a gloss black durable finish. My generic harder of choice is EVERCOAT...please use a respirator when spraying..definitely use a respirator when adding the hardner to the mix.

Allan..I did that just in case this is in the development stage...not looking for trade secrets..just some more information..silicone and paint has never been friends... I am thinking the product may be in fact be "silicone/fisheye eliminator" that was given to him..this will allow the paint to lay flat just in case there is a bit of silicone contamination. And yes ..just a few drops are all that is necessary even when spray painting very thin coats...I have seen fisheyes and leisons due to contanimated surface. Even wiping with a prep wash (naptha, can you say lighter fluid) twice and tacking off....fallout is always a problem. I have found that the double wipe of naptha goes a long way in cleaning the surface just moments prior to your first tack coat.

I am not sure that this is the problem and the way to correct the situation. Outside of a major frame twist in the rear or enlonged front eye bolts..I can no reason to make a change here...get your book out and look at the frame section and use some tramel points and gauge or at least a plumb bob and tape on a smooth flat garage floor. Further the front eye is positioned in a fixed pernament loation..the flattening of the leaf spring will alter length but to have the difference you have would be an extemely distorted spring arch to the naked eye..the length of the spring and its subtle changes during road bounce is absorbed by the rear shackle and bushings. I have seen plenty of these units wore to the max...although by appearance you may have solid looking rear eye bushing, rest assured that if they have any age on them at all they are worn flat on one side..the appearace to the eye will not detect this on casual observation as the part you see is not subject to this wear. Further on this is that if in the past these shackle were subjected to metal to metal contact due to worn rear bushings I can assure you that the rear leaf eye is indeed enlongated and the shackle bolt will be flattened also...the combination of these two worn spots and add the worn bushing make for a lot of slop. If you spring eye is worn, these can be welded and re-bored for correct diameter hole..new shackes and bushings are available but can be a bit hard to find on a drop of a hat...you can build your own shackles out of grade 8 hardware...please if you go this route pay strict attention to the distance between the bolts on the shackle..do not lengthen these as it will cause the leaf spring to lose it profile at a very quick rate and as such you will see thae sag return to even new spring on the rear portion of the leaf...never ever try to alter the profile of the car from changing this shackle measurement..

Wow...silicone added to paint...I know when I spray I use a silicone eliminator so as not to fisheye/leison on me. Further I use buffing compunds that are silicone free to eliminate possible contamination of a surface due to silicone fallout...if this is something that is say in the primary stages of development, I am very curious of this paint formula..if you have addition info..please PM me on this.. Thanks

nla

tell him to chuck up the boring bar and let the big dog eat....

South of where???????????????????? I have been in Dixie all my life..and never but ever seen peanut butter on grits...and the deeper the south..the worse the mollasses..however I conceed that you cannot make a good popcorn ball without mollasses...

Allan..these engine has real metal in them...even engines of the 70-80 had enough metal for a .030 bore and still run cool..now granted in some of the later block of today..some cannot be bored as much..lighter casting for lighter cars. What age is this guy? If he is young he may not have any experience with real cast iron and is drawing only from his knowledge of today's iron..and yes a good achinist will only take off what needs to be done to clean the bore to the least oversize available keeping the block servicable for another future clean up. As mentioned above..the bore fo these block was the difference..will be an easy job...plus you hve the istons and ring in hand for a hone fit..cannot see the problem doing what the "owner" wants.

I personally think the brace is a needed item..maybe not when the car was new but with age and the opening and closing of the hood. slight hood hinge wear..this brace will help keep the left to right measurement in line and prevent hood edge from meeting Mister Fenderlip..I have one here from a 49..have never compared it to the 48 hood. I also did not think to look at the 48 in the yard to see if it had one..maybe next time I am that way I will check...