greg g

sent out a note for you.

Pick yer state, read the info. http://www.turnerplates.com/YOM%20Index.html#yomindex

As being available and reasonable in price for LT radial applications. KONA brand was mentioned. Think they are 10 ply??? http://www.american-omni.com/brand/kona.php

Are they going to be auctioned off???? Who is curating them???? You hear about stuff like this but to see pictures, Unbi friggin leavable. Like to see the inventory list.

Phil is the winner. Here is a pic of a 36 Fargo Pickup and its proud owner.

Not a Nash or nash varient, as their headlamp nacelles were mounted on the radiator surround. These are clearly mounted on the fenders. So I shearched LaSalle, Pontiac, Oldsmobile, Buick, Nothing there. Might be a 37 Graham. Looks like a custom bodied hearse with the Finials on the top of the rear body.

Is there any way to hook up a lube circulation pump and a cooler. I would think that 50 W might be a good compromise for lubrication and flow that could be pumped more easily and flw better through something like a tranny fluid cooler. Can you not make some break in runs on the slat flats prior to your timed runs??? didn't they used to do a 1 mile circular track out there?? Or borrow a tow dollie and pull it for 50 miles or so with the rear wheels on the ground (drive shaft disconnected)

Knew I had some pics of this, found them. Hope they help.

I am familiar with the deal with the insurance companys. My daughter had a parking lot accident, another person ren into her front fender and drivers door. The insurance company's initial estimate was 1500, then they noticed the borrom of the A pilar was involved and totaled the car. Saying the repair would be 3800 and the car booked for 2900. So I bought it back for 814.00 Spent 75 bucks on a fender, 160 bucks on a used door, 180 bucks to have the pillar pulled on a frame machine, and paid a friend 600 bucks to paint the stuff hand the door etc. So I effected the repair of the totaled vehicle for 500 bucks less than their first estimate. Of course I had to drive to Florida and bring he car back to fix it. And her mother is down there as we speak on the return trip. But what could she have gotten with a check for 3000.00???? Least we know what condition the rest of this car is in since I have owned it since it had 3000 miles on it.

One thing missing from their catalog is a speedometer gear calibrated to the new speed postings in Kentucky. the new speed measuring goes int effect the first Saturday in May. So you need to get your speedometers changed over to furlongs per fortnight.

When I did my engine I used Terrill and Egge. Egge is in cali and they have a website catalog and price list. You can also get good stuff from Vintage Power Wagons.

Just think of it as 6 Briggs and Stratton one lungers fastened together..........

These are know as selector trannies. I think they are pretty slick shifting units with the three on the tree, If everything is adjusted correctly and the bushings are in good shape, you can shift with a couple of fingers throught the steering wheel, right at the steering column. The nice thing about the shifter is compared to the Fords and Chevies of the time, they are musch less cumbersom and clunky. I remember my aunts 55 chevy with the three speed. The "H" pattern was definaltely apparent. You pulled the lever toward you and down for first, but needed to make a very consciuos effort to go through the neutral gate to shift to second, a definate up forward and up again motion. With the mopar if you will look, when you pull the shifter down into low and let go of the lever, it basically goes through the neutral gate unaided while remaining in low gear, the second gear shift is meerly an upward motion with slight pressure towards the dash. then third is straight down. I believe one that is in good working order can be shifted as quiclky as any floor shifter I'm familliar with. It is important for them to be well adjusted, with fresh bushings and properly lubed, once set up that way they are a very slick shifter mechanism.

I insure my P 15 through American Collectors Insurance. They have an agreed value policy. My renewal came through the other day and in looking at the policy, I have my value set at $8500.00. It also covers up to 1500 Dollars worth of spare parts, I am now wondering if that is enough???? So I want to ask if you don't mind sharing the information, what is the condition/ value you have placed on your cars and trucks, and what level do you have them insured for. I think of mine, 1946 Deluxe business coupe, as a driver, basically an original car ( yea, cept for the motor, the paint, the tires and the upholstery), so whaddya got, and what value have you insured it for. So lets stick to these catagories for vehicle classification; Survivor (original car with only mechanical parts replacements) Show Car (National level) Show car (local level) Driver Beater Work in progress Basket case

VW have them also but a bit smaller, they usually mount on the underside of the hood near the fire wall. Of not for you folks with space issues, Jeep Cherokee's hav one about the size of a tennisball behind the front bumper on the pass side. Think it may be for the cruise controll motor. You are not compressing anything just a space for the manifold to pull a reserve vacuum. Take a two liter soda bottle and see how much vacuum you can generate by sucking on it till the air is gone. Same deal with the canisters but they are stouter and don't collapse. A canaster of this type will provide about a dozen or so good swipes of the wipers, evens out the operation at driving speed and makes up for changing throttle positions keeping the wipers at a steady speed, I have one of the smaller VW unite up under my dash. I try ot avoid driving in the rain, but its there if I need it.

Before saving up my pennies and dimes for the chromer, I painted my rusty rear bumper satin black rattle can stuff from One of the hardware chains. (TValue or Ace) It lasted two years before I took it to be chromed.

I seem to be missing my tutorial for stone tablets, any help out there???

I had 3 stuck valves, I removed the head, and with an assistant turning the engine over with the starter, I played "whack a mole" with my rubber mallet. After a few well places whacks the valves began to retreat to the closed position on their own. Fear??? Perhaps, but a few whacks seemed to dislodge whatever was holding them in place, and they were fine after that. One issue to check on an experienced engine is to look at the top of the tappet, some may be cupped or indented on top where they contact the valve. If so they will not give a true adjustment as the feeler gauve will ride on the highspots while the valvle will ride i the depression. If that is the case, they need to be removed and flattened for a true adjustment.

Also, pictured here are a grade 8 bolt from the hardware store, the stock head bolt, and a Pioneer Auto parts head bolt for a 350 chevy. The Pioneers were sourced from a local automotive machine shop should be available from any auto parts jobber. I believe they were 79 cents each 2 years ago. Sorry the pic doesn't show the part number, I have the box in the garage if you ae inteested, I will grab the number for you.

If I believe Bob T had this problem. The top is operated by vacuum and thee are two vacuum pistons behind the rear seat. Likely hood is there is a leak in the rubber lines going from the knob to the pistons or betweenthem. Probly just and ageing drying out thing.

hare is one for radials http://www.rojawheels.com/wheeltech/DiameterCalculator/DiameterCalculator.htm

That gasket that you showed the measurements for (I was the source for that messy drawing) goes between the trans and the bell on cars and keep the goo where it belongs.

Althoug I agree with Norm that all cylinders should be the same bore, back in the day it was not uncommon to see engines with different bores across the cylinders. As a matter of fact it was quite common in Pontiac flat head sixes and eights. They were aparently notorious for breaking thier cast iron piston heads off and scoring cylinders with alarming regularity. I recall my uncle had a 41 Pontiac that had two pistons and cylinders repaired in his driveway. A fellow came over with theis goring rig that was mounted to the engine block looked kind of like a minature oil drilling rig. (Hood came off during thei process) Aparently the oil was drained, the pan and head were pulled the offending piston/s and rod/s removed, the rig attached and the boring took place wit the engine in the car. One was a 10 over and the other was a thirty over. After the boring was done, the culinder got honed, and a new piston and rings were fitted. the crank was cleaned, boring tower removed, pan and head went back on, and off you went with 6 stock piston, and two new ones of different sizes. Probably with compression ratios in the 6 to 1 range, the diffence was negligable. And it was certainly cheaper than having the engine pulled and rebuilt.

You can go .090 but, you would need to run premium gas. You can take .070 off and still run on regular. You can also take material off the block and head for any combination up to those numbers. I took .040 of my head and .010 of the block. Mine is a 56 230 engine that started out at 7.5 to one, my machine shop guy said with the .050 off in combination with a .030 overbore should have my Compression Ratio at or near 8.5 to 1.

Here is what you have to seal. wonder if there might be some plastic plugs of some type at the hardware store that might also do the job??? Aren't those the rails the gear selector forks rid on? Do they move back and forth in the hole?