greg g

boy 24 reads and no responses yet. Sorry, I can't help much, but you may want to consider swaping in a newer rear end. You would net better brakes, with e brake, a lower gear ratio for more relaxed hiway speeds, and probably less work than rebuilding you questionable current one. lots of options mopar b bodies, ford, jeep cherokee 2wd. most will need a drive shaft modification, but most of the donors mentioned need some small spring pad mods to bolt in.

Norm, Did some searching,and the Nylint stuff didn't match up. Found a site for Structo, and this cab looks very similar to the one on the True Value truck Some of the details are different but the looks are close. I sent an email to the site's host, to see if he and any info. Gonna check Tonka also.

Cali guys......Huuummmmmpppph!!!! Never have to start anything colder than 50 degrees.

There is a complete running gear set up in this site's classifieds currently.

Owner's manal is pretty specific for starting a cold P15 engine. Pull choke full out. Floor accelarator pedal, to set high idle cam. Hold pedal 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, and engage starter. when engine starts, release gas pedal, and adjust choke to achive smooth high speed idle. Decrease choke as engine warms, to release high idle cam.

So Don, why the upgrade??? Carters giving problems? Or just some extra change burning a hole in your pocket???? Like the saw thing, kinda B Horror Movie deal. May make adjustments exciting. Crosscut MOPAR.

My guy flipped mine for 15 or 20 bucks. Mine was much worse than yours. You could have actually cut your hand on mine if not careful handling it.

Cleaning out Dad's attic and ran across this truck. I got it as a Christmas present from my Uncle who worked at an A&P Grocery store warehouse. I remember him telling us (my cousin got one also) that these were a limited run available only through A&P, and only about 1500 were made. I got it in 19554/55. There is no manufacturer's marking on it. Tractor and trailer are seperate, trailer wheels are on a pivoting suspension system. Rear doors open, the trailer floor is wood, it is 22 inches long, 9 inches high and 6 inches wide. Other than my cousin's which is long gone, I have never seen another one, how about any of you older fellows???

Got some items kicking around I'd like to get rid of. If folks have use for them, let's make a deal. Pictured are; Carter BBS carb, from a 56 230 engine. Condition, was on a running engine, probably could use a rebuild. Carter fuel pump from 56 230 engine should fit all flat 6 engines. Condition 2 screws missing but makes pumping noises and moves air through the outlet when manually operated. Carter fuel pump with glass sight bowl/filter, from a 48 dodge 230 engine. Condition, works was mounted on my engine, leaks, needs gaskets. Fan Pully wide groove belt. Condition Good 12 Volt Internally resisted coil from 56 230 engine, Condition was on running engine. Oil dipstick from 56 230 engine, with tube on block. Condition good Clutch Pressure plate for 9 1/2 inch set up. Condition all springs good, friction surface some surface rust, no deep gauls or hot spots. Items also listed in parts for sale, PM if interested will sell all or by each for reasonalble offer. Have detail pics if needed.

cap off the tranny feed, and half the amount of oil needed for and oil change.

Its such a simple thing ain't it, that always does us in???? Glad you found it. Represent the Plymouth Flag well. What was the phrase?? "Plymouth builds great cars. Great Service keeps them that way!" Now you can brag you are a master technician for being able to track down and electrical gremlin. Just don;t tell them about the trial and error stuff and all the blind alleys we sent you down......

Looks like Wanda bt who is that short guy with her???????

Kaiser supercharged their continantal flat 6, and solved the pull through push through carb problem by mounting an air tight box around the carb. And MOPAR cousins Graham Paige had supercharged engines going on in 1937. Looks like it had a coolant line running to it to keep the temp stable, and looks like it had a suck through carb. The pully driven jackshaft wit the 90 degree gear box is kinda interesting. Looks like some rubber or fabric ujoints along the way also. Wouldn't want to get my genny wires too close to that drive shaft...... some interesting info about the supercharged flat6's on the GP owners club site. 140 HP and some success in racin and other motorsports. http://www.graham-paige.com/

Doesn't the boarded up building look like the garage where Doc domiciled???

The 35 engine is a 201 cubic inch model, the outer block is the same but its only making about 80 HP. A 218 in 40's Plymouths made 87 so you lost some ponies in your swap. If the engine is on the stand it's pretty easy to pull the pan, and and get the crank out and checked. If they didn't hurt it too badly you might be able to get away with the same size bearing with no need to turn the crank. Or you might want to think about getting a 230 crank and getting some extra ponies. If yo keep the old one I would pay particular attention to the oil passages on that journal. Mkae sure they are good and clean so the problem doesn't reappear.

Check the simple things first. You need to crank the starter to get a spark while grounding the coil wire, as the points need to make and break the circuit in order for the coil to fire. It may be as simple as not having the wires fully set into the distributor cap. usually the coil wire will go in anothe r1/8 inch after most folks tink it is fullyinstalled. Also check the condition/pressence of the little carbon nub in the center of the inside of the cap that the rotor picks up the spark from the coil. Check the internal wires in the distributor amkeing sure the insulationis in good condition and there is no inadvertant internal grounding, and buy yourself a new condensor and install it. Check the ignition side of the coil with the key in tha on position and assure you have current to the coil, a test light sould work well for this test. Next run a jumper wire from the ign side of the coil to the battery and run your checks, this will power the coil bypassing the ignition switch which could be part of the problem. Finally make sure your distirbutor cap is indexed correctly on the dist, and is snugged down in its proper position.

Formula one engines do not use camshafts to open or close the valves. If they still run cams the are used to time the valves, and the valve opeing and closing sequence.The valves are pneumatically oprated by high pressure air. They also have a very short stroke.

Cost are comparable with the rebuild/change to discs. The discs are much more convenient and getting parts is much easier come repair time. Several folks are runnign discs wit the stock MC. but adding either a residual pressure deal or a proportioning valve. The stock brakes are a pain to get adjusted correctly, and the dual front wheel cylinders are prone to leakage. So discs are worth considering if you gotta do the complete system any way. If you do a forum search for disc braks (or disk brakes) you should get some good info as there are several options available. from basic bolt on caliper adapters to full repalcement deals. Check forum members Charilie Acker's site (rusty hope) for pics of a good basic kit.

PO, PO Pityful ME!!!! Since when did I become a favored cheritable contribution???? ( last minute deductions not withstanding) Not that I don't appreciate the benevolence of the patron philanthropists of this quarom.....especiall in my hour a grave need. If the dirty deed is done, I shall make a donation in rembrence thereof to our esteemed web site host.

Some more info from my manual. Replacement guides are sold with under sized bores and need to be reamed to the valves. clearences should be .001 to.003 for intake, and .003 to .005 for exhaust. Is says to mic your stems and ream accordingly. It also says to install the guides to a depth of 7/8 in below the cylinder block top edge. then it says the bore should be .342 to .343 for intake and .344 to .345 for exhaust.

I think there was just a pretty extensive thread regarding this and Shel posted the pic from the manual. My manual shows the inlet pipe coming from the oil gallery casting (the ridge on the dizzy side of the block that the oil pressure gauge feeds from) going to the top fitting og the oil filter canister. The return line goes from the lower fitting to a fitting on or near the pressure reliefe valve casting. The canister it self mount to the rear of the head using the mountings that the throttle linkage is mounted with. If this doesn't clear things up for you I can get some pics tomorrow. I think you could mount the canister any where convenient on the fender or firewall with flexable lines to account for engine movement.

Cute bit of photoshopping there. Here abouts there is a fellow who makes the swap meet circuit pedling stuff. His home away from home is one of them for real mounted on a 55/56 Packard chassis. I will snap a pic next time I run across it.

Including the plumbing and bracket. Send me a PM and we'll see what we can do to get you filtered. Sorry the pic doesn't want to open larger, takes a Fram cartridg or NAPA 1080.

summit has them, usually as an online special. last I ooked I think they were 20 to 35 depending on lenght. http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+115+314563&D=314563

Also one group (can't remember which) goes in upside down in relation to the others. I believe one end of the guid is rounded and the other is flat. One way for intakes the other for exhaust.