greg g

Anybody from NY Conn, Mass, PA, NJ, Vermont anywhere going????? http://www.rhinebeckcarshow.com/

Seems quite a few asian cars do that type of circuit. Hot to the load then ground to the switch/indicator. Wonder what the advantage is besides less resistance before the load.

I feel your lactic acid build up. Many years ago I spent a Sunday under a Volvo 122s changing it from an automatic to a 4 speed. I had the parts car so everything should have been a bolt for bolt swap. However that was this issue with the pilot bushing As I didn't swap flywheels the one fromthe standard had some bad teeth. So I got the mounts fabbed, the pressure plate and clutch disc on and lined up with tool got the bell housing hoiste up and on the clutch linkage in and aligned. Then pulled the tranny up on my chest lined it up on the head less bolts in the bellhousing and pushed it in, thunk, wiggle wiggle thunk! I pulled the tranny down and decided to emery cloth the end of the input shaft. after about 9 or 11 test fits, 60 lb bench press I finally got a wiggle wiggle slide snick. I drove that car hard daily and harder on weekends on road rallys and auto crosses for three years with my hand turned input shaft. It did sing a little on the second third shift but it was a personality thing. I can still remember the pain in my arms and shoulders.

Try Imageshack, no registration, just a simple upload to their server, you can resize pics fairly easily. What I do is load my pics to the desk top then use the browse feature to link them to IS. Then you get a thumbnail. click on the thumbnail to open it in a new window, right click on the image and copy the url leaving off the http://. Then you can hit the button on the forum tool bar that looks like a postcard. You get a pop up, past your info there. Then to make sure it works either hit the preview post button or the go advanced button. This will let ou see hoe the post will look, if its OK then hit the submit button. Image shack can be found at; http://imageshack.us/ Welcome aboard. You wont get no hard feeling regarding an engine swap here. My 46 Biz Coupe has a 56 engine with dual carbs and some other machine work.

verify the firing order is correct. When I first tried to start my rebuild I was sure everything was correct. All I was getting was a lot of starter work and a few pops out the carb. Everything was correct except I had the plug wires one tower off onthe distributor. A quick correction and it started so quickly, it startled me. double check by bringing #1 to tdc and assure the rotor is pointing to the tower for the wire that goes to #1. If it is way off you are 180 degrees out. If this is the case simply undo the dist hold down bolt, raise the distributor an inch or so, twist the rotor to the correct orientation, then push the dist down and refasten it.

What color of the good stuff you gonna use????

Park the car raise it up to get the tires off. Put it on jack stands,get it as level as possible across the frame, Raise the back and get it on stands also. Put the stands under the frame. With a plumb bob, mark the center line of the spindles in some permanent fashion on the garage/shop floor. Put a string across the frame on the line with those centers, then take measurments back to a reference point on the old frame on both sides. You might want to mark the front ends of the frame horns on the floor also. Then you can position the donor and make sure the front spindles are where they should be.

The gear will make no difference on the rear end.

Hold a piece of white paper about 8 to 10 inches from the tail pipe, while some one revs the engine. You should be able to tell if the deposit on the paper is oily or not. Did you retorque the head after a heat cycle or so? If not warm it up again shut it down wait about 10 to 15 minutes and retorque the head bolts.

The early dakotas used 5 lug wheels on 2WD and 6 Bolt on the 4WD. then they changed to 6 bolt on all at some point. Just get one with 2WD 5 bolt pattern. If twer me gettin, I'd be gettin the steering column. Might as well find one with a 318 and torqueflite, (or the 3.9 v6) get them and ya might as well grab the drive shaft and rear end also.........

Dwight, the P15 battery carrier is different from the one Shel is showing only 2 bolts through the bottom. Also mine is for a group one battery so I guess the one I have won't work on your car.

Send some other to you PM.

Some others' Back row Dr. Kilmer's Swamproot Kidney, Liver, and Bladder Cure, Binghampton, NY Giltredge Dressing (cut glass) Dated May 17, 1890 N.K. Brown's Aromatic Essence of Jamaica Ginger Butlington, NY Higgens T&C Compound

John, have you been eating those red mushrooms again????? I may have mentioned a bungee cord trick, when the wife wasn't listening but I don't remember nothing ragarding belting my knees. What ever you did I'm glad it worked. Here are some of the bottles, found three more boxes in the garage today. Back row left to right; Warner's Safe Kidney & Liver Cure Rochester, NY 14 1/2 oz. Lydia Pinkham's Medicine L.House Brewing, Syracuse, NY Weiss Beer, Bottle by clyde Glass Works Clyde, NY Medium sized clear 2nd row Attwood's Jaundice Bitters Georgetown, Mass. Lying down Dr. Miles Tonic Furst-McNess Co., Freeport, Ill.

Early 2wd drive Dakota Pick up is a fairly easy swap and retains your stock wheel lug pattern. Pluss if you can put a 440 in a 283 should be a cinch.

the a 833 is the standard mopar 4 speed. Used for everything from /6's to hemi's with diffentent input shafts, bearings, and tail shaft lengths, also came with cast iron or aluminum cases, and there was also on OD version used in light weight stuff to combat those fule efficient ferrin cars in the late 70' to mid 80's.

I have a decent battery tray. It has some corner rust but is solid, I acid dipped it put on some paintable under coating, and painted it. It yours if you want it, for 5 bucks plus postage. I'll post a pic if yer intrest'd. G

And a bin of larger items. Lots of stuff is marked Comet, or Illinois Tool Works. union twist drill, Cobalt, Crucible, Hoggson Erand. Looks like quite a few have been sharpened seversl times.

Thanks Dave, Here are a couple small boxes of whatzits and gizmos likely lathe related. I also came across 2 or three of the spring loaded center punches one a Starrett and the other a craftsman.

Let's pool some money buy it and put it in the crypt to replace the 57 Plymouth in Tulsa. Hopefully no one would ever dig IT up.........

Here is a pic of some of the items from Dad's collection. The brass tube is magnifier with a cross hair like deal on the business end. The drill index is from .0135 through.028, they are also numbered 61 through 80 made by Hout of St Paul. I believe the things to the left of the quarter are inside hole measuring deals made by Starret. The mini dial indicater is a Last Word. The straight edge is Brown and Sharpe fro Rhode Island More later.

Here is a pic of some of the items from Dad's collection. The brass tube is magnifier with a cross hair like deal on the business end. The drill index is from .0135 through.028, they are also numbered 61 through 80 made by Hout of St Paul. I believe the things to the left of the quarter are inside hole measuring deals made by Starret. The mini dial indicater is a Last Word. The straight edge is Brown and Sharpe fro Rhode Island More later.

Well, I just bought 3 from WW for the wives car, and they even gave me 60% tread warecredit on one. I only wanted two but they said the inner side wall was cracking on the 3rd one. Now mind you the tires are 4 years old and have 55K on them. Heres my theory, On front wheel drive cars I never rotate the tires, rears last forever, so whenthe fronts wear out, I put the rears on the front and the 2 new ones on the back. greater traction onthe rear maintains the factory dialed in understeer mode. My 3 tire change was on the wifes all wheel drive Subaru, which wear front tires like a fwd car due to weight bias. So at 55K the fronts were toast tread wise, and the rears were 6 out of 13/32's left. So now I have three 13/32's and one 6/32's new ones pair on the front, one newby pass side rear. rear ends of Suburu's stay put unless you really try to get them loose. I think the guy is trying to up his bonus by selling tires.....Special on custom floor mat rotation.

OK so you may be sensing a common thread here but part of Dad's stuff is a collection of a couple dozen different types of barbed wire pieces. Trade Axes any one??? Utility pole insulators, Stoneware ginger beer bottles, blue glass bottles, Patent medicine bottles. Then there is the drawer full of blow torch heated soldering irons, and about 40 lbs of good old high lead content solder, about 25 lbs of lead sinkers, and several ingots of lead for making sinkers, and or smoothing the seams of your chopped 50 Lincoln.

Starrett is a name that was on quite a few things. My father worked in a number of industrial situations. He started as a machine machanic at Nestle's Chocolate works in Fulton, NY. During the WWII he was a gun captain of the center 18 inch gun of turret 3 on the USS Missouri. The Navy trained him in hydraulics systems. After the war he worked as a punch press setup man at the Easy Washer Plant in Syracuse. When that closed he went to a similar position with Smith Corona type writer plant. When that closed he worked for a company the manufactured packaging machinery and industrial conveyors. He fabricated, and assembled machines from engineering drawings, designed and plumbed pneumatic controls for the machines and then did the tear down and went to the customer to do the installation. When that place was sold and closed, He went to work with one of the engineers who worked there and decided to start his own buisness. He worked there doing much the same, except the pneumatic controls were changed to computer controlled electromagnetic stuff which he made work but left the design to the "yuppie engineers". He retired from that business. He must have had unrestricted access to the tool cribs. He does have one of those Oak Machinist tool chests with the green felt lined drawers and bins. It now houses his fly tieing gear.