bobostski

I buffed my grill while it was still on the car. I used a drill and buffers. It was a lot more work having to sit in front to the car and hold up the drilll but I didn’t want to take the whole front end apart. I didn’t come out as nice as if I had taken them off but looks real good. Also, always put on your buffing wheel so they always turn in the same direction each time you use them. If you turn them around, they break of the fibers of the buffers and wear out faster. Remember, it’s the compound on the wheel that does the work, not the buffing wheel so keep your wheel charged up and rake out old compound every once in a while.

Here is a picture of the twist valve that came on my 48 Ply to stop flow to the heater. I leave it on because it leaks if I turn it down. I think this is factory.

Saw this at the HD museum in Milwaukee. The dealer would attach this to the back of cars to deliver or pick them up. There is a bar that folds down it front of the bike to attach to back bumper of cars. I want this so bad.

I have a better suggestion for what to use instead of Masonite. I went to a plastics distributor and got sheet of Expanded PVC. Sign makers use it. It's PVC that’s a foam that is made into sheets. I got 1/8" white. It's very flexible, cuts with a knife, and will not be effected my moisture. Its about $25 for a 4x8 sheet. You can heat it up and bend it if you want to bend it permanently. I put Expanded PVC in on Google and found lots of sites for it if you are out in the boonies.

Where are you and how much do you want for them???

Bill ,you just need to get rid of that piece of junk. I'll take it off your hands for $1500. Just trying to help.

Another good site for you would be the Dodge Brothers Club. They have a good forum and concentrate on Dodges from the first to 1938, last year for Dodge Brothers name.

Remember, Any job worth doing is worth doing is worth doing twice.

I went with a contrasting color because I'm using a yellow-red color scheme. I call my car a Stock Rod since the car is stock exept for paint and fabric. I painted the brackets yellow so the visor kindof floats. The wheels and bumper splash aprans are also red with a red pin stripe just below the body crome strip.

I just bought 2 year subscription for $23. Less tha a dollar an issue.Very good deal! Bob O.

Yea, the PACKERS WON !!!! The REAL America's team.

The rubber gromets that hold the top bows to the car were all dried and broke off so I found some close replacement in the plunbing deptment at hardware store.They were about 50 cents each. I sewed my own headliner.I used old for pattern. Taped the old one back together were it ripped. It wasn't that hard and turned out great.

I took off the hood,took out one of the screws holding the hinge( don't remember if it was the frount or back) This let the hinge swing down enough to hook it on the spring. It was easy to stretch the spring and put the screw back in.

The sweetness of a good price wears off faster than the bitterness of poor quality!

Does the new rubber come with the metal for the bottom? I found some universal type at a local hardware store for about $1 a foot. Looks good but door is tight. I live in Dallas and thought the heat word compress the rubber but after a year I have to still slam the door to close. It also stuck to the top inside of the door and ripped off some of the outer rubber.

I have a salesmans service letter for my 38 Dodge and it show using one simular to this but older looking.They show it hanging on the pass. window in the car and claim 18 to 22 mpg. Another photo shows it haging on the dash. They call it a Gasometer." Prove to prospects right before their own eyes the amazing economy of the Dodge engine"

Dodge did plan on having the Lancer trim(thats the body line extending from the hood across the door with the dip on the rear quarters) on the 2 door and covert only but it was so popular they added the option about mid year to all cars.I also read they wanted to do something to offset the Olds and Buick 4 door hardtops that were new for 55.

Thanks. The picture was taken at the Southwest Mopar Mini-nats sponcered by the Dallas Mopar Club. The only work some else did on the car was fix the hole I put in the radiator.I did all body,paint,mechanical and intiorer work. My 55 Dodge Custom Roayal Lancer and my newest project, a 1938 Dodge 4 door touring sedan in my custom outdoor spray booth.

My baby. 1948. Rusty primer when I got it. Painted it on my driveway. Had 2 rat nests that ruined the seats. First thought was rat rod,then I thought I would restore to original dark green,finaly decided to keep it stock but had fun with the paint and fabric.

Thanks. That helps a lot. My car was stripped down when I got it. I saw the hole and and didn’t fill it because I thought something would show up in the boxes to fill it but didn't happen. Saw mention of it in accessories book on the web site. I need to fill the hole. I have the back-up light and people think I am missing one when they see the hole. I'll see if I can make one up.

Does anyone have the spare tire filler tube acc. for their car? My car has the hole drilled for one but it wasn't with the car when I bought it. I've seen the picture in the accesory book but would like to see a picture of one on a car.

It is recommended that you let the piece get warm to hot as this will keep the compound from coming off the buffs and sticking to the trim. I always wear gloves. Downside of glove is the possibility of getting cutting compound in with polishing compound from the gloves. Cross contamination of compounds will affect the outcome so don't let them mix. Remember that it is not the buffing wheel that does the work but the compound. Apply compound often to the buffers. I use a lot of compound when I'm cutting and not as much when I'm doing the final polishing. Do not mix compounds on a single buff but get buffs for each compound. Harder, spiral sewn buffs for cutting, soft loose buffs for polishing/coloring. Also you need to "rake" out the buffers once in a while. You will see that the buffing wheels will take on a metallic look. The compound has taken in a lot of particles from the stainless and has coated the buffing wheel. The buffer will not do its job in this condition. The buffer now needs to have all the compound taken off and a new coat applied. They sell a rake tool with lots of 1/4 inch teeth to do this. I just use a old screwdriver and move it back and forth while the buffer is working. Always wear a mask as breathing this stuff is very bad for you. For deep scratches, something you can feel with your fingernail, use a pointed pick hammer from the back side to gently push out the scratch. Then you can then use a fine file to cut the scratch out. Then go through 100 grit to 1500 paper with a sanding block in that area. When cutting buffing, use a cross cut pattern. That is, buff in one direction and then buff in a X type pattern in the other direction. This will keep you from cutting grooves in you trim. For final color buffing, go in just one direction the long way of the trim. For the final time, I will pull the trim piece lightly in one direction along the buffer stating at one end to the other. I would not use steel wool on stainless as it will scratch it. If there is overspray on it, use some lacquer thinner on a rag to dissolve it. A perfect mirror finish is a lot of work and hard to get but you will be amazed on how much better the trim will look even if it is not perfect. I encourage anyone to buff out the stainless themselves as it isn't really that hard and the results are wonderful.

Back to the Battery, I was buying batterys at Auto Zone and they didn't seem to last very long. I asked the guy how many 6 volts they sell a year and he said maybe 1 or 2. I come to find out that the battery sits on the shelf for years be for they sell it so you get a 2-3 year old battery to start with. I've since went to a battery store, payed a bit more, got a fresh one and have had no problems. I know I won't get rich on my 48 Ply but its always the only one at the car shows.

I like yellow also. Here is my 48. It was rusty primer when I got it a year ago last May.It also is all stock exept for color and interior fabric. I did all the work myself. My First full paint job on a car. Painted it on my driveway. I've got a OD trans to stick in it and would like to "soup up" the flat head. I would like to put some flames on it coming off the red on the front fenders going into the doors. I get the TAXI thing all the time. That was not what I was after. I like restored cars but I thought that I would have fun with this one. The restorer in me still put this back pretty much stock. Thanks Bob

Thanks. I didn't know about the color change. I figure that the flashing is do to the fact that the pointer starts to move back and forth and won't hold steady at about 35. It's so much fun discovering new things about a car. I've had this car about 1 year and on the road about 3 months. A couple of months ago I was at a Mopar club meeting and I was showing some guys the knob that glows red when turned on under the left side of the dash to see if anyone knew what it was for. Most members have 60's and 70's cars so it was a mystery. I was turning it on and off. I was thinking that maybe it was a map light but couldn't understand why it would be red. Then someone said, "Bob, your backup light is on, its off, on, off." Oh, it turns on the backup light! I thought that the light was broke because it never came on when the car was in reverse. I do not drive it much at night and never tried turning it on in the dark. The other night when I noticed the dash changing colors, I was wondering was the lever switch on the right under the dash was. So I moved it and the dash light went off. Mystery solved. Does this car hold anymore secrets? Later Bob