John-T-53

Well, keep on drillin'!

If it rotates at all, maybe a big E-Z-out? Probably a long shot tho...

post another pic of what you have now, from the outside. You don't want to remove the hanger if you don't have to!

Could you cut the shackle enough to allow 360 degree rotation with no interference? Looks like it's almost worn through at the top (common). If not, it might be loose 'nuff in there to just pound it out. You could then cut the bushing as mentioned and extract it from the frame mount. x2 on Rare parts, this is the only supplier I would buy new suspension parts from.

Interesting if not pipe thread (and tapered). It should be though, that's what would actually seal in an application like this. Straight threads would leak unless it has a head and a washer like a brake hose or oil pan plug. A machine shop or engine parts supply might be a source. Also, try McMaster-Carr... Good luck!

Another option is coating your old parts to mitigate clearance issues if not that bad. HM Elliott in N.Carolina does coatings on pistons and bearings. They have two types of coatings for the skirts - a general dry-film low-friction coating that a few tenths (0.0000") thick, and a "buildable" coating designed to decrease clearance with the cylinder walls.

THANK YOU SIR! That reminds me... I need to add a few things to the topic to bring it up to date. Things have come up during the last couple years that need to be shared.

Thanks Hank. I wanted to post a link here but now I can't find that content anymore. It was under the "old" forum, around 2011. I can't seem to search by "topics started by (me)". So maybe it is lost? :-(

8 3/4" is a good one to have - you should be able to get new ring and pinion gears, if needed, and have any ratio you want. Plus it'll be all Mopar. 8 3/4" pumpkins have the top two studs close together - closer up pics?

Don, what's the source on this? I'd like to see if I can fill in the blanks with C-body rear ends as well (C-bodies always seem to get left out).

How's the pressure you have to apply with your foot compared to the original all-drum setup? The only reason I'm not switching to front discs is because I think I'll make the physical work too hard, as discs don't "assist" the pedal like drums do But, per your post, all seems to be ok? I remember PP also seemed to be happy with his discs, and watching him tearing through Tim's driveway a couple years ago after you fixed his wires; he seemed to stop ok (like we'd hoped at the time, lol).

Awesome, I love it! Congratulations! Yes, we'd love to see videos of the big beast running (and driving!). Are parts other than gaskets made for any of the other big block engines that could be used for the 413? Rings, bearings?

I like the posters he has on the wall in the background too - the one on the right looks like it says "Mopar". Pretty standard decoration for a machine shop. There's a shop in Hayward across the bay from me that has several of the like, including one with the text "Pedalin' abreast"... Lookin' good bud!

Front end parts for my 73 C body!!!

In the bigger picture, I also have a problem with "big brother" dropping into your private daily life like this and trying to tell you what to do with your property. Not a good sign, my friends!

(see attachment) Beware of these guys...don't let 'em fool you, haha! Obviously they couldn't connect the parts in their letter between "1953 vehicle" and "...if you vehicle is a classic, please disregard this letter." I remember several articles in Hemmings about "scrap" programs like these. Many of the vehicles scrapped are often indeed collector cars; too bad they end up in the wrong hands like the legalized mafia of the BAAQMD. Also, I'm a firm believer that driving an old vehicle in good working order (you could call it "recycling") is better for the environment than buying a new one, when you consider all the energy and raw materials (and their respective pollution contributions) that manufacturing requires. I wonder if there's a way to calculate it? BAAQMD Letter.pdf

Dios mio, man!

Good to hear it all worked out! And your crossmember was saved! Here are pics from my install - driveshaft was no problem.

...Dayam straight! :-P Plus this one has turn signals and a fresh air kit! Score! Looks like you're just missing the "Air" knob and cable which controls the valve on the fire wall. Edit...also a nice bed. Yeah, paint the bumper black!

Compare to the images in Don's post #13. Looks too tall! edit: not sure why this text is showing up so mall...14 pt. arial.

Yes sir!

I bought a dual 1-bbl manifold (modified from stock) for my truck a couple years ago from George, along with carbs and linkage, and it has worked very well. It would seem that going this route would be a lot easier than casting a complete new manifold; I guess the only limiting factor is supply of the old manifolds or time constraints of having one's own modified. But I see your goal here would be optimum flow - more than what a modified stock intake could provide? One benefit of using the stock manifold is keeping the physical contact with the exhaust (if staying with single exhaust), because it takes a lot more time to get the intake hot with a dual carb setup. And that's from experience in coastal CA where it's not cold. And if you convert to headers, you can still heat the intake with water using the exhaust chamber. Only thing I'd suggest on a new casting design is incorporating a water tube like the Edmunds intake, or perhaps a jacket cast in. Without a means for heat, more fuel will condense than make its way to the cylinders. What have you been experiencing with regard to this on your triple intakes?

Good tip... thanks Don and Tod. I'll make a new bushing and lube it correctly next time when I re-do the clutch.

What is the recommended lube on the bushing? I used a little grease on mine, and after a short while it was making funny noises. Previously I used grease on another bushing and after removing it after about 3000 miles, all the grease was gone and the bushing was toast. I couldn't figure out why it didn't work.

...Humph! I remember my setup having tight clearance in this same area. I had to rotate the tranny 90 degrees to facilitate its mating to the bellhousing, but then was able to turn it upright after full insertion and it cleared. My mounts were all in; perhaps you just need to cinch down your bolts and squish the rubber a little? Another thing, you could also vertically elongate the bolt holes in your rear mount brackets to drop 'er down a tad... Did you check your frame rails for straightness?