John-T-53

Did you tie him to train tracks or something? haha.... !

train horns in vehicles...you could film some prank videos like this one: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=icnRMW6P9nc

Close but no cigar.....my guess is it's off an '84 Aries wagon!

I really enjoyed the yellow sweptline stepside at Clements last year...

...or nearest torque to where the cotter pin lines up.

...or a rear window like the '56's?

Nice man cave!

Just down from the hot tin roof...

https://www.google.com/maps/@25.774201,-80.192536,3a,75y,255.5h,82.68t/data=!3m4!1e1!3m2!1scoi2qUIaYkqXEHxqpl3U9A!2e0

I like the dependability of my truck. No matter where it is, how long it sits, I can always count on its ability to fire up and drive anywhere, with no special prep other than regular maintenance and keeping it clean.

If it was that rusted on the outside, and dry on the inside, it's probably not even remotely rebuildable. I'll bet the bore is pitted beyond what a hone can fix. Get a new MC and forget about it! Not worth the risk.

Yeah, I've been wanting to get a tach like that too....where did this one come from? Looks very nice!

!

Watch out for that tree line! Jeff's procedure is what I usually do too, although have to leave choke on longer to compensate for the dual intake. DD, is the initial timing slightly advanced a little more than 0 deg to compensate for your mile-high location?

Yup...especially after the "rat camper" comment mentioned earlier, haha... Is that a down spout...or the exhaust pipe? After your nice wood tool box you built for your truck, I'd expect a camper for your next "accessory" project (not a 'rat' camper though)...

One night in that thing and you'll be sure to get mange, hanta virus, and rabies.

Plus, the nylock nuts are usually grade 2 (weak). I'd get grade 5 nuts and heat treated lock washers and attach the pumpkin with those.

Jeff, Very true about the 'B' pillar needing reinforcement - the sheet metal (trim piece) on the inside of the cab (that some have affixed their shoulder belt anchor to) is very inadequate without a lot of reinforcing. It's only held to the cab with a couple spot welds and #8 sheet metal screws. Plus, it's very thin. Do you have any photos of the work you did here? This is on my list. Thanks,

Deal, knowing you've got plenty of rebuildable flatties scattered 'round the ranch I can have after you're done with it!

Why cram everyone in the cab when you have a bed....?

As in lock nuts? Or are there copper washers there too? I'd at least get new copper washers. Nuts should be ok to reuse. Use just RTV for the pumpkin to housing seal. no gasket - gaskets always leak in this case!

Thanks Tim! That was the previous version of the engine too, might have to let you take it out on a Brandt-88-Clements Road loop for comparison this spring!

Pics of the crankshaft. Armando took his time, but he got the journals perfect. Look at those radii at the edges... .010" / .010" I paid extra attention to getting the right clearances on all the bearings. These engines were assembled "tight" from the factory, and tight rod clearances are especially critical for longevity due to the offset.

Here's mine. A slightly hopped up 230 intended for performance and a daily driver. I drive this thing almost daily, and on the freeway all the time. about 10k miles on it so far, and very dependable. Big increase in power over the previous version, especially on the low end. I can climb hills in OD now. Originally a 218 rebuilt in 2009, but kept eating the rod bearings. Turned out the rods were not honed properly, the crank had a bad grind on it, and the crank was cracked on top of that. Was a 1941 crank. So got a 230 crank and new rods, and had a very nice grind job done on it by Armando of Custom Crankshaft Repair. Bored .060" over. Coated pistons 3-angle valve seat cut Ported intake/exhaust passages Chevy valves ARP studs and nuts on everything Blueprinted and balanced everything Align honed mains George Asche intake, carbs, and linkage Tom Langdon's Air cleaners Pertronix ignition Future plans are to install Langdon's cast iron headers with dual exhaust, along with electric fuel pump. Also better ignition wires.

I remember reading about disassembling the carrier in the shop manual and recalling it looked like a biotch! I think there's a special spanner tool or something needed to unscrew the cover plate...? Plus, it's probably torqued on there like an SOB... Any situation like this where you have a large diameter screw-in cap ain't easy. My father in law recently had a hell of a time getting the "cap" off a hydraulic ram for his tractor flail mower attachment, just to replace the seal.