rrunnertexas

The Carter Ball & Ball after the rebuild.

Thank you so much to the great members on this forum for the help, advice and direction which has helped get my 1935 Plymouth PJ back on the road and driving. Not sure how many members here shoot film with large format cameras, but it is a passion that goes hand in hand with vintage cars/trucks. A few days ago the Plymouth posed for a few images taken with a Blair field view 5 x 7 camera (vintage 1890) on black and white film. Thought sharing a few images might be fun.

I have not ordered any yet. Was hoping to get a bit more input, but maybe not many have ordered from this company to provide advice. May order a carpet set in the next few months and give it a shot.

47Jim, I decided to use JB weld to cover the areas where the exhaust was leaking out of the shaft/bushings. I took the car out for a ride yesterday afternoon and had it up to 55 mph. Felt pretty good and exhaust noise was gone! Picture attached of the JB weld (Extreme heat) type used for the repair. Will see how long this will last.

Oh, wow, what a difference. Looks great now!

Keith, I saw the zerk fittings on my car when working on the rear brakes. What is the reasoning for not using a grease gun to put a "pump" or two of grease into them?

My 1935 Plymouth could use some new carpet. A quick search revealed a company "stockinteriors.com" and they list what appears to be a nice custom fit set in multiple colors. Does anyone have experience with the carpet from them? Decent set or keep looking? Thanks! David

Thanks for the info so far. The one on the car now is marked C6D2. I'm also looking on ebay for others that look the same or very similar as this one, but they have different codes on them, so not sure what model or application they may have originally been used on. Just in case I want to pick up another carb as a backup.

Searched but did not find it - a listing of all the Carter Ball & Ball carburetor model number codes. Anyone have a link to share? I'm trying to find which model is currently installed in the car and what years/vehicles it was used on. Thanks!

Beautiful car in a beautiful place. Thanks for sharing that ride.

allbiz49, I was wondering the same thing. Why use banjo bolts for this when it does not really appear to be necessary? If these leaked, a direct line was the next option. Hoping after a final bleed tomorrow, all is dry and life moves on.

In this image the missing rivets where the bracket should be can be seen.

My Plymouth PJ hood has a bracket to hold open the drivers side hood, but the passenger side bracket is missing. What is this piece called, a hood holding bracket? Where can I find one for the passenger side?

Update - the new parts arrived from the vintage power wagon site including bolts, brass connectors and inner/outer copper crush washers. Installed them this evening and did the first round of line bleeding before dinner. So far, DRY! No leaks! Oh, my.... insert smile here. My guess is that perhaps the ridges on the old brass connectors were not as sharp and defined which allowed brake fluid to pass and leak? Thanks so much for the advice and suggestions to get this problem solved!

Fun to watch and see all those fresh new parts. Amazing how many of the machines were used to create all this and with little or no safety equipment. Richard - thanks for sharing, a great morning distraction.

What a nice place to cruise and enjoy! The pictures sure are nice too - thanks for sharing those. It has been a few years, last time visiting I drove that same route in a Hemi Challenger, both the Wisconsin and Minnesota sides. Would enjoy doing that again.

Cudan, Found the same leak in my '35 PJ. Did you try a sealant and did it help or still leaking?

I'll think some more tonight..... A new riser kit is about 100 dollars delivered. Certainly a joy to install and get working correctly before carefully punching out the original bushings without cracking the cast iron manifold. Plus fitting the new bushings and hoping the clearance is correct for operation. A tube of JB weld and some careful "staking" of the shaft and bushings to keep the valve free flowing (closed) are 15 minutes of time. Coin toss?

47Jim, Ahhhh, after all that time, money, effort, etc. - that is very frustrating. So, lesson learned, when repairing this riser, perhaps make one or two small welds to secure and get out before warping happens. Dodgeb4ya - if I do the replacement route, sounds like reaming is needed. Forgive my ignorance, by chance do you have a picture of the reamer you used and the size? Keith - I'm so on the fence, replace or JB weld it in place? Hummm....

Yes, the riser and spring are working perfectly as is, except for the leaking exhaust. High mileage wear problem - and an interesting one to have. The C- grade of the replacement kit does not instill confidence when the new parts are installed. Did you give it that grade to the poor fitment or low quality of the parts?

OK, I'm pretty good at removing and replacing the intake/exhaust manifolds on my 1935 PJ 201 since it has been done 4 times in the past few weeks. Why? Because I'm chasing an exhaust leak and found it this morning. (All new gaskets are clean and no sign of leaks.) The heat riser shaft bushings have a large clearance and exhaust is escaping through the shaft/bushing. Shining an LED light and I can clearly see the gap. Has this happened to anyone else? Two thoughts on this.... stick the heat riser valve closed to allow maximum exhaust flow leaving the shaft/butterfly plate in place and plug the shaft leaks with an exhaust rated sealant? Or, order a new heat riser repair kit and install new bushings and the rest? I'm in Texas, so do I need the heat riser working 100 percent for the first 5 minutes or not worth the effort?

Keith, Yes, the axle looks very similar to the 8 3/4" in my 1968 Plymouth, 3rd member style. What is the ring gear size in 1935? A complete 3rd member with a 3.7:1 would be a nice find. The 201 CID in the car pulls well, so not thinking that will be a problem with the 3.7:1 ratio. Finding one is another story? By the way, your Chrysler video with the stalling and pushing was great!

DJ - yes the lid is where all the warping was and where the sanding was done. The bottom was close to flat.

In my 1935 Plymouth PJ resides the original axle housing and gear set of 4.12:1. I have read some here about DeSoto/Chrysler overdrives and other overdrive transmission conversions. Each is a bit different and have their own installation challenges which sometimes lead to more work and changes. Not sure that is the route I need to go. What size axle is installed in the mid 1930's Plymouth/Dodge/Chrysler cars? In my 1968 Plymouth it is widely advertised, either the 8 3/4" or the Dana 9 3/4", yet I don't find any listing for the early years. Also discussed is the mid 1930's axle ratio of 3.7:1. Is this an impossible to find gear ratio for sale used or is it currently available from aftermarket gear manufacturers? The ultimate goal is to be able to cruise down a State highway at 60 MPH and the engine being happy at about 2800 RPM.

New "better" connectors from Taylor and a crimping tool ordered. Now, wait until next week for delivery.