rrunnertexas

I have never seen the cover/shield part in any of the other pressure plates. The damage in the center looks to be from the clutch disc springs making contact. Perhaps the clutch was installed backward for a few minutes and then re-installed the correct way?

OK, I spent a few hours and finally have the flywheel and clutch removed out of the car. Removing the flywheel was a challenge because of the little spring type washer things that held it in. I had to use a die grinder to cut the last one out. Along with the washer more of my hair came out with it! Where these spring washers a factory install? Looking at the clutch and pressure plate, they look to be in pretty decent condition. The flywheel cleaned up nicely with just a block sand - nice and smooth and no ridge. Does this clutch look nice enough to put back in? I'm looking at replacements and see they are listed as 9 1/4", however, this one is 9 1/2". Confusing. I know the logic is just to replace everthing while it is all apart, however, if it is not bad, my thought was to re-install after cleaning. The transmission was removed due to leaks and a slight grind going into first gear which turned out to be a broken tooth on the cluster gear set. Clutch was working fine. Thoughts most appreciated. David

After more cleaning of the transmission case, I found faint white letters senciled on the side. The upper letters or numbers are not clear, but the lower certainly looks to say "P J". Anyone have a picture of a restored transmission or know what the upper might be? Another "PJ" just closer together? I'm planning on cleaning further and then painting the case black and adding the letters. Thanks, David

John - thank you for that parts source! Found their web site and submitted a parts request. Fingers crossed.

Thank you so much for all the information and help. After cleaning up the case this morning, I found this letting punched into the back of the machined area of the case. PJ = 1935 Plymouth! So, the transmission is the original and the parts purchasing has begun for a 1935 model transmission. Bob - checking the other gear for damage, I see it is well worn, but not broken. I found a new one on the auction site, so maybe next week it will be here.

The band on it now looks to have been replaced years ago as the brass rivets look clean. I'm sure the original band must have caused all the wear and damage. The brake is working, but with that much taper, it surely is not as effective as it could be. Ebay did not reveal any new drums so, finding one might be a challenge. There was one for mid 40's cars, but kinda pricey at $300.

Keith - that is super information. So, based upon what you are seeing, the transmission looks to be the 1935 model?

Here is a full size shot, just before pulling it out.

Having just pulled this out of the car today, the emergency brake drum looks very interesting. I'm assuming that it is not supposed to be bowed or have the taper that it does, correct? Are replacement drums hard to find for this year? Any ideas where to find one? Don't laugh to hard!

I pulled the 3 speed manual transmission out of my 1935 Plymouth PJ. I have it pulled apart now and see there is a tooth missing in the custer gear, so I need a replacement. Looking on that auction site, I see these gears are specific to model year. Can anyone confirm that the transmission I have is from 1935 and which cluster gear I need? The numbers on the side of the case of the transmission are 3 - 13 and 631841-2. The only number I could see on the cluster gear is 6135 (hard to read).

There might be something available from Mike's. The original oil bath air filter has been replaced on my car with a dry screen type (which does nothing). It does fit perfectly on the carburetor. I just need to find a small round air filter for it.

Linkage close up.

Update - For those interested in the Daytona 1bbl carburator (puchased from Mike's carburators) as a replacement for the original Carter B&B. I installed the carburetor today and am impressed with the fit and finish. All bolted on easily - the fuel line lined up, and the throttle linkage only took a minor adjustment to connect. The engine fired up with less cranking on the starter and now it will easily idle at 600 rpm, nice and smooth. I still have to follow the final adjustment instructions for the main jet, but it's first short drive as it is felt great. See attached:

The idea of trying to piece together a few carbs trying to make it work sounds like it could be frustrating. I'm thinking a new carb is the way to go. Several have recommended the progressive 2 bbl, which looks neat, but does require the 2bbl to 1bbl adapter. The universal 1bbl from Mikes carburetors looks closer to the B&B in style and appears to be an almost bolt on. Anyone have negative or positive comments about that one? I did read that it is made in South America, but the quality appears good according to a few comments. Thanks

James, Thanks for the help! I pulled the linkage and now see that there is light passing through the throttle shaft too. That indicates a lot a wear and more air to be drawn in. Instead of re-busing the shaft, maybe a tiny o-ring and some thick high temp grease will stop that leak. Adjusting the butterfly made a slight reduction in the light passing through, but it still seems like a lot. When it is closed, nothing should be passing, correct? At this point in time, I'm thinking is it worth buying a few on ebay and try to piece one together or is it more efficent to buy a n228 replacement? Thoughts? David

I have worked on carburetors for 30 years and never ran across this before. My 1935 Plymouth with a Carter b&b always idles fast and I'm not able to get it below 1000rpm. The idle speed screw is turned all the way out. Knowing this, air must be entereing the engine from somewhere causing the high idle speed. Removing the carburetor and putting on the bench with a flashlight below may have shed some light on the problem (pun intended). With all this air entereing past the throttle blade in it's closed position, this can't help with the idle speed. Anyone else run into this? Typical for this type of carb and age? Thanks for the help/advice, as always. David

Wow! Looks like a great project and a solid start. Love the pictures. Any of the motor?

LazyK, This might just be the ticket! The attached photo looks just about what is in the car now. The product description sounds like what it is. Fingers crossed they have them in stock.

Just looked at the Steele Rubber web page catalog but did not see them. By chance do you still have the part number for these? Thanks for your help.

I'm looking for the rubber pieces that are pressed into the doors and help keep the window from vibrating. Front doors take 6 each and rear doors take 2 each for a total of 16 pieces. Are these parts available? Attached are photos of the old pads in the car now. Bernbaums does not have these - any other ideas?