rrunnertexas

Assembled with a thin layer of this Permatex fuel resistant gasket sealant. I only found one slightly damp area near the barrel, a huge improvement from the fuel pouring out the sides of the bowl. Certainly do appreciate the ideas and experience shared here. Together we saved this fine Carter B&B carburetor!

I found a nice thick piece of glass and put it on the bench. Started with coarse paper and then moved to finer grit. After about an hour of sanding and checking, the warping is now drastically reduced.

Excellent advice and knowledge. Digesting all this info leads me to order the better terminal ends and a crimping tool. Then the real fun begins, the stripping of the ends and the actual crimp job. Thank you to all for sharing!

While I'm pondering my Carter B&B fuel leak problem, I'll move on to the next project - installing new ignition wires on the PJ. This set came from Bernbaum Auto - the plug side is already crimped and the other is not. Do I have to strip the end, fold it over and crimp with a special tool? If anyone could include a photo of the correct tool and how their finished wire looks, that would be most helpful. Thanks!

Well then, it may be possible to keep using the flat file or sandpaper to rid the high spots. Just seems like pretty large gaps. A double gasket, maybe. I don't suppose there is some sort of gas resistant sealant that could be used in the areas that show the large gaps?

Putting a straight edge on the top cover reveals warping. In the picture I have an LED flashlight on the other side, revealing the gaps between the top and base. I did some filing with flat file, but the warping seems a bit much for that method to correct. I'll put it back together with the gasket and see what happens later today.

Also an image of the wet, top gasket.

My 1935 Plymouth PJ has the Carter B&B carburetor and was running pretty well, just a hit of a miss here and there at idle. It was obvious that the carburetor had been leaking fuel for some time as shown on the manifold and carburetor. So, I pulled it off and rebuilt it with new gaskets and a needle/seat, hoping to cure the slight miss and the fuel mess. After installing it and running the car for about a minute, I see the top gasket is wet with fuel. OK, so maybe I set the float incorrectly at 5/64ths. Resetting it for less fuel in the bowl did not change the top gasket wetness. The motor runs but not as well before the rebuild. Were these carbs designed to have wet gaskets and leaking fuel?

Thanks to everyone so far for the help, your time and advice is very much appreciated. Going to order the parts tomorrow morning and fingers crossed they have all in stock. I'll double check the "crush distance" to be sure when the new parts arrive. My hands are done with brake fluid this weekend.

Desoto1939 - Thanks for that great resource! I found the PDF of the catalog and it looks like they carry the brass connection, banjo bolts and both of the copper washers. A phone call on Monday may get those parts heading this way. I'm still scratching the ever growing bald spot on my head as to why this is leaking....

This photo shows how it was set up when I bought the car. The inside washer was copper and the outside was a standard type steel washer. In my mind I'm thinking, oh, this is an easy fix, just add 2 fresh copper washers. Nope.... not so easy.

Knuckle - nope, just one washer "outside" and one the "inside" connection. That little white part in the picture was my other attempt as stopping the leak using plumbers tape. It did not work either.

Sorry for the upside down photo. Please help with this brake fluid leak at the junction of the brass fitting and the wheel cylinder or the copper washer to the brass connection on my 1935 Plymouth PJ. I have tried several different copper washers, cleaned and cleaned again. The surface at the wheel cylinder looks nice and clean. I'm stumped. Why is this leaking and what is the solution to fix it? Are there new brass banjo connections available somewhere as well as the copper washers?

Keith, Awesome car and great first ride story... stress and all, I guess that is sometimes part of having fun with old cars. Sure hope you continue to make videos to share as you work on and enjoy your Chrysler! Love the pictures you posted.

Dan and TodFitch, Thank you for the fast replies. Just looked at the Bernbaum site and see they offer new rear wheel cylinders for the 1935 model. So, those and other items are in the cart now. Let the fun begin. Thanks! David

Good afternoon, this is my first post here as I'm new to 1930's cars. I have been searching for new rear wheel cylinders or maybe just the cylinder rebuild kits for the 1935 Plymouth PJ, however, have not been able to locate them or I see conflicting part numbers listed on web pages. I'm hoping someone here with experience can point me in the right direction as to where these parts can be located. If a local NAPA would be nice or an online parts place? Sure appreciate the help. David